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Old 04-09-2012, 05:56 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
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Bobcat - I have the Jag rear. I had heard about rattling pads in the front Chevrolet brakes but nothing I remember on the Jag inboard brakes.

Just a thought on your steering wheel - I have a 66 Corvette that I restored years ago and I was getting some obvious looseness and kind of a popping when I worked the wheel back and forth. After months I happened to be looking at the spokes on the wheel and the hub and realized there was a barely perceptable movement between the two. I pulled the horn cap off and discovered the last time I had the steering wheel off I had forgotten to cinch down all of the screws that secure it. It was just loose. Two minutes with a screw drive and that problem was solved.

Thanks
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:08 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 427 S/C W/Holmon Moody Original Nascar build #508 Iron Block/heads (C5AE-H) Bal/Blu 427 Sideoiler; 780 Holley Dbl. Pump; 4 Speed Top Loader; AP Racing Bks; IRS; 15" Trigo pins
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Default 460fe?

Dan is the engine you are installing in you street roadster a FE bored out to a 460 or a 385/460? If it is a 385 series; hows to clearence thing looking, hood, headers. etc.?
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:20 PM
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Silversmith - it's a stroked FE. Keith Craft originally told me it would be a 460 but after we calculated it, it's really a 459 ci. I never corrected it. Don't have the engine in the car yet but I have a 63 427 low riser, dual-quad intake on it. Shelby ran duall-quad low risers on their street cars. As far as I know it should clear the hood fine but until I get it in there I can't be 100% sure. ERA said a medium riser intake would definately not fit without a hood scope. I'm using ERA's headers. I think the stub-outs from the head are the same as for the sidepipe exhaust. They have a 4 into 1 collector that sweeps back to run undercar exhaust. I don't anticipate any problems with them.

Dan
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC View Post
... As far as I know it should clear the hood fine but until I get it in there I can't be 100% sure. ...

Dan
Dan,

An easy way to check is get some silly putty and make small mounds about 1/2" thick, that you place on the air cleaner where you think there will be interference. Lower the hood till almost closed, then check. If ok, keep going till the hood is closed and latched.

Very likely some of the silly putty mounds will be squished just a bit, and you can measure the thickness to give you an idea of how much clearance you actually have. If it's ok, repeat the test with the motor on and blip the throttle to get the motor to torque over a bit, remeasure the silly putty.

I am sure Bob can provide a number, but I would suspect one would want at least 1/4" to 3/8" minimum clearance.
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