Yesterday the car actually moved under it's own power for the first time but I could tell the clutch needed more adjustment as the transmission would not go into gears easily while running and release was right at the end of the pedal travel.
Today I carefully adjusted the slave cylinder until there was about 1/16 inch freeplay with the piston bottomed out in the cylinder and reinstalled the spring to the fork. I also adjusted the pedal to where the face is about 7-3/4 inches from the end of the footbox. I'm getting every bit of 3/4 inch movement of the end of the clutch fork when the pedal is depressed, a little more actually. Here is a video of clutch fork movement.
I have the seat set back to about 1 or 1-1/2 inches from the bulkhead due to being 6'2" and having a 34 in inseam. The pedal face is 23 inches from the edge of the seat cushion.
This was a step in the right direction as the clutch will disengage cleanly now and the transmission will shift fine to all the gear positions with the engine running. But, it's disengaging probably about a half inch to an inch off the floor (footbox). I have to completely extend my leg out and stretch out in the seat to get the clutch all the way in. The upper position of the clutch is not bad but 23" + 7-3/4" is requiring full extension and then some. I really need a little shorter clutch pedal cycle.
My clutch is a bent finger McLeod and I have a spacer on the slave cylinder to get everything in alignment.
I also noticed that the 3/4 inch Tilton master had a little fluid on the rubber bellows and I pulled it off to see that it has been leaking a little. I also noticed that the rod seems to hav been rubbing on the housing and had scrapped the shaft pushing up a burr on it. I took a hobby file and smoothed the burr off of the shaft.
All in all, does this sound like maybe I just need to insall a 1 inch Tilton master which is mentioned in the manual as an options??
Issues with clutch linkage on #782 (Bob?)
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