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BTW, what's a trailer relay?
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So, the relay with 8 leads instead of 4, if memory serves???
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Maybe I was thinking of an isolating relay.
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I think it's more complicated than that. With the turn signal on and no braking, the only load is from the blinker element in the one bulb, plus what ever load contribution backfeeds from the front blinker element through the turn signal switch, plus the flasher unit.
While the flasher and front turn signal functions on a left signal, it's not functioning on a right signal - something is different on the right signal circuit versus the left one. I need to go back through all the connections on the right front parking/signal light and see if there is some reason for this. There is enough load to operate the flasher on the left side but not on the right side. I also installed the panel over the master cylinders a couple months ago and wonder if I might have pinched a wire from the brake light circuit down there. By the time I get this figured out I'm going to miss the spring season. |
Well, you'll be able to just plug in the new turn signal and flasher without doing a whole lot -- you don't have to actually put it on the column. It could always be the voltage leakage from the turn signal throwing off the circuitry. That would be nice.
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The trailer relays are what is used on a trailer behind American wiring that uses the brake light bulbs as indicators as well. They are simply diodes that only let electricity flow one way. Because the bulbs are used for both if you switch the indicator switch without diodes it also makes both the brakes work and flash. Are the diodes hooked for electricity to flow in the correct direction? They are like a one way valve.
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Have you checked all of the "pin" connections in the rear harness to be sure that the correct wire is feeding its correct counterpart?
It's extremely rare, but it wouldn't be the first time that ERA' Quality Control Supervisor missed a "crossed" wire... Jim |
Jim,
If I recall correctly from Dan's original thread on this problem, everything was working properly and then stopped working without any changes being made. If I recall that correctly, it isn't a crossed wire. But since you mentioned pin connectors, when I put my wiring together a few things didn't work initially and I discovered 3 pins that weren't "clicked" into the pin connectors. So, when I connected them, those wires just pushed out and didn't make connection. It was easy to correct - just click the pins into place. So Dan, a long shot, but it is possible that you have a wire that was making a connection but then the pin backed out a bit more from vibration. You've probably already checked all the connections at this point... |
It should not be this hard. If you just put the relay on the kitchen table, attach 1157 bulbs to both of the output wires and the negative post of the battery, then feed 12v positive to the middle input wire (brake lights), the bulbs will light, unless the relay is bad. There is no tricky back feeding involved from the turn signals, no nothing -- you don't even have to hook them up. It's that simple for the first leg of the test -- you just leave the turn signal inputs alone, don't even hook them up.
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Fixed
It's fixed. I'm embarassed to state what it was. I'm an electrical idiot - which I have always admitted. :CRY:
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Dan,
Send me a P.M. about what the problem turned out to be. If, for no other reason, I can mention the situation in the Wiring Primer. |
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Don't be so hard on yourself Dan. You only did about a jillion other things right in this build.
But if you only added another hundred HP....................... |
Chas is right. When you have a 1,000 Cobra tweaks swimming around in your head, it's easy to overlook whether or not the garage door is open before you start backing out....;)
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