Four Way Flashers -- How To with Pics
This is basically nothing more than tapping in to five wires, and then wiring in a switch. The only difference is that you have to put a diode in to the five taps, and you have to wire in a flashing unit. You need to fuse it, too.
Here are the parts you'll need: Clockwise from upper left -- a flashing unit (electronic), a nice switch (this is a re-pop from the 1966 Mustang glove box switch), Posi-Taps (you'll need three), barrier diodes (you'll need five), in-line spade fuse (10 amp). In all of my pics, I used green wire for this job, and the pictures follow the narrative. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/flash001.jpg Use a Posi-Tap to tap in to the blue wire heading to your existing flasher (see the Posi-Tap in this pic?). Feed it 12 volts and see if your dashboard light comes on. It should. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/flash002.jpg Tap in to the green and yellow wires that are heading to the trailer relay that is behine the fast-blow fuse holder. Feed each 12 volts and see if the front and back lights comes on. You have to do this test one wire at a time. If you feed both at the same time, the rear lights will not come on. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/flash003.jpg Wire your in-line fuse to your flasher, and solder in your five diodes to five strands of wire making a note to have the little striped end of the diode (which goes to the load side of your circuit) be at an easily recognizable end. On my pics, the shorter end of the wire always will have the load side of the diode. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/flash004.jpg Place three of the diode wires in to the Posi-Taps, making sure the short "load end" of the diode is headed in the correct direction. Connect the other three ends of your wires together and then test your turn signals and brake signals to see if they are behaving normally. If they are not, then you screwed up the direction of the diodes. Now feed 12 volts to the three ends of the diode wires that are all twisted together. Your dash light should come on and the front turn signals should come on. The rear lights will not come on. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/flash005.jpg Now attach your remaining two diode wires to the passenger side terminals of the fast-blow fuse holder. Connect the two ends together and feed them 12 volts. Your rear lights should come on. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/flash006.jpg Connect all five wires together. Feed them 12 volts and all five lights (four turn signals and the dash light) should come on. Then leave the five wires twisted together, but without 12 volts feeding it, and check again that your turn signals and brake lights behave normally. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/flash007.jpg Feed a new line through your firewall below the starter solenoid. Have a ring eyelet on it that will attach to the master 50 amp circuit breaker. This will feed your emergency flasher circuit so that the circuit will work with the key on or off. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/flash008.jpg Wire your switch and run the wires out the back of the glove box, down to the passenger's feet area. (Note the cool adjustable rev limiter in the far back of my glove box.) http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/flash009.jpg Test wire everything up. Put the fused flasher in line with the feed from the master circuit breaker, and run a temporary wire over to the five strands on the driver's side. Test it out! Then make sure your brake lights and turn signals work normally when the switch is turned off. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/flash010.jpg Assuming everything is working right, neaten it up and mount everything up under the dash. Zip tie your wires up and make sure everything is insulated properly. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/flash011.jpg Go back to your glove box and mount your switch. I was going to put it up on the top of the glove box, but instead decided to put it over on the right hand side. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/flash012.jpg |
Yeah but how will you protect your 'real' signature???:CRY:
|
Geez your car must break down a lot. :p
|
Quote:
|
Nice write up Patrick. I think I'm going to try that, at some point.
|
Quote:
You know, I looked on the Internet to see if you could just order "pre-wired diodes," kind of like fusible-links, but you can't. Soldering in five diodes, then shrink tubing them, is half the total task. Once you do your "at the kitchen table" work, and armed with three Posi-Taps, you can knock this out in about a half hour. I had been planning on doing this for years, but when I ran across the 1966 Mustang Flasher Switch, I couldn't really put it off any longer. |
Quite a write up. NICE
Unfortunately, I am more of a wrench turner, I hate electronic work and admittedly limited! I love the idea, but I will need help with this one, but will do it in the future. Too much other pressing stuff before this can happen. For your next trick...any chance you have a fix so the brake lights work with the key off ...like a normal car? I have always thought was a safety hazard. there is nothing much I don't love about the ERA car, but this is one of them. My last Cobra worked like a normal production car, brakes lights worked all the time, key on or off |
Quote:
EDIT -- Easy Test: Just remove fuse five and use a fused jumper wire with alligator clips to go from the passenger side of fuse one to the driver side of the empty fuse holder five. Leave that fuse out. That's an easy test to see if changing the feed will do what you want. |
Pat,
Between you your LED brakelights and now 'flasher show', you're just one small step away from... Light Show - Club Cobra Photo Gallery They'll make your pipes look like they're glowin'. |
Quote:
|
:LOL: You are irrespressible.
Nothing a diode couldn't fix, no? |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
But I did forget to ask when the how-to for adding HID's, power steering, power windows (oops no windows, must add those too), air conditioning, power brakes, heated seats, NAVI, cup holders, arm rests, etc. will be forthcoming? But most importantly, when will you be replacing that fugly coolant overflow thingee? |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Why? Just sayin'
|
Quote:
|
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:23 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: