Yes, it would be easier to change. But the whole idea behind a fusible link is that it will only blow if there is something big time wrong and, most likely, it will require a tow back home and some time on the lift to find out why it blew. It is not designed, nor is it intended, to be a "quickie fixable" item. As I said in a previous post, I have never, ever, ever had to actually replace a fusible link in any of my cars... including the super-charged GTP that blew its oil all over the engine bay while I was driving, caught on fire, had flames coming out from under the hood, and every damn dashboard light there was started blinking and dying. Even with the car being a total loss from the fire, the fusible link still worked.:JEKYLHYDE

50 amps probably wouldn't even make the wire itself smoke, but there would likely be some smoke coming from around the fault location itself (because of the higher resistance on the fault). If I was really lucky, it might even "burn itself free" of the fault, like power lines will sometimes do with tree limbs, but probably not. The circuit breaker would be clicking on and off and I would be standing there with my thumb up my... thinking "hmmmm, I wonder what's wrong and what the hell is that clicking sound?" Then I would put my finger on the circuit breaker and feel it clicking on and off. At that point I would disconnect the battery via the quick disconnect gizmo on the negative battery terminal and the clicking would stop. I would then wiggle some wires, reconnect the battery, the circuit breaker would start clicking again, and I would call for a tow.:cool:

Sorry for the late post, been a totally crazy week here!

First quote:
Yeah, I hear you and I knew that...bad choice of words on my part. What I meant to say was that it would be a lot easier to change a fuse after the problem is fixed rather than replacing a fusible link

Second quote:
LOL...This is way to much thinking for me at a time when I could be doing some nice damage. I think I would rather just have something blow(fuse or fusible link wire). From your earlier post on that same line of thinking, why does ERA put that auto resetting CB there? Why would you want that trying to reset itself when obviously it had something bad going on to trip it off. I would think the kind that lets you reset it manually would be a better idea so you could try and troubleshoot it before trying to manually reset it? I'm thinking I might replace that auto resetting CB with the manual type you had mentioned.

A manual reset isn't a bad idea. Next time I order, I might make the change. A Bussmann 123B50-A2P-KA should be a direct replacement.

If I was driving at night, and the engine was hot, so all my fans, both pushers and puller were running, and the head lights are on, and I stop the car and turn the engine off, so my fans and head lights are still drawing current from the battery, and then I reach down and push in the cigar lighter, I think that would be enough to blow the circuit breaker. I would instantly know that pushing the cigar lighter tilted the scale, so I would pull it back out and, after a few seconds, the circuit breaker would automatically reset and my fans and lights would come back on. Since it's dark outside, and I left my flashlight at home, that would be better than a manual reset. How's that sound?:)

Looks to be the same as this one I was looking at on Amazon:
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PHXVGQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DZMBT0IIAXRS"]Amazon.com: 50A MANUAL RESET BREAKER: Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31LnQhcOlfL.@@AMEPARAM@@31LnQhcOlfL[/ame]

I liked it because it seemed to be aimed at marine use.

Bob, a few questions.
My car is now 12 years old and I know CB's wear with time, so I would like to replace the original if for no other reason than that!
I noticed on my car the original CB has a metal body and hold down tabs, these new ones are plastic. Do these need to be metal for grounding purposes? Will the spread be the same so it will be as you say, a direct replacement?
Dave

Sounds like you should quit smoking cigars:D
Only kidding, I always have a cigar going while cruising around.
Seriously, why don't you try it and see if it actually proves out your theory. I suppose in that situation it would be a personal choice thing. I am thinking more of what I want the CB to do, shut down to protect. I just don't want it to be constantly trying to reset itself before I have a chance to fix what caused it to trip in the first place. My big concern is to avoid damage!

Ahhhh, what you want is a "Programmable Recloser." They're used in the power distribution industry and you probably have one outside your house or down the street on your circuit. So, if Sammy the Squirrel is unfortunate enough to put one paw on the neutral and one paw on an energized phase he'll blow the recloser and your lights will go off. But the recloser will automatically try and reset a programmed number of times, like three, to see if the fault is gone (because Sammy was skyrocketed over in to your neighbor's yard). Since the fault is gone, your lights come back on. But if it's something like a big tree limb that's still on the lines, then the recloser comes back on, and goes off, and comes back on, and goes back off, and comes back on, and then goes off and stays off until the tree is removed. That's what you want... but they don't make them for cars.:cool:

Sammy in the news: Suicide squirrels driving utilities nuts - USATODAY.com

I probably shouldn't tempt fate, but several years ago we were losing the transformer servicing our place almost every year. (You'd hear Hssss, Bang! as the poor devil exploded.) I think the power company put some kind of guard on the connections, so it's been working reliably since. ;)

That will work. The case doesn't have to be grounded.

cool, thanks

I just got off the phone with Bussmann, and they actually have something very similar to what you are talking about. "It is called a Type II - Modified Reset.
The circuit breaker will remain tripped (in the OFF position) as long as there's power to the circuit, due to an internal resistor. Type II breakers can
be reset by turning off the circuit, or by turning off the ignition switch. These devices are sometimes called "non-cycling breakers." Several Cooper
Bussmann Type II breakers feature silver-colored bodies." this text is from their catalog. I was not that interested so I did not think to get a part number. I called back and left a message, because it actually does not sound to bad.
I still think I am leaning towards the pop out button though...nice and simple. I don't like the sounds of an internal resister either. I don't really know why, should I be afraid of it?
EDIT: More info from the Waytek site http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1...cuit-Breakers/
"Waytek carries thousands of circuit breakers for auxilary and accessory circuits on trucks, buses, recreational vehicles, marine, and construction equipment. From hi-amp circuit breakers to blade type electrical breaker. Waytek has rugged and reliable circuit breakers for exceptional circuit protection performance. To make a selection on which circuit breaker is best for your application, you must consider where the circuit breaker will be mounted, the current rating you need the electrical breaker to carry, and the type of reset method. Circuit breakers have four types of reset methods: Type 1 Automatic Reset, which means the circuit breaker keeps cycling on and off until the overload is removed, Type ll Modified Reset or Non Cycling, where the circuit breaker doesn't reset until the overload is removed or the the power is turned off, Type lll Manual Reset with the trip indication shown on the body of the circuit breaker and it must be manually reset, and Type lll Switchable, which is similar to Type lll Manual Reset, but the circuit breaker has a manual trip button."
I really like the Type 3 switchable, but it looks totally different, very heavy duty and waterproof. Also more expensive...IMO it would look real cool in a Cobra, but definitely not traditional to an ERA Cobra. Look on the bottom of this page http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1...I---Switchable

I'd just go with the manual reset.:cool:

Yup, I agree.
Ordered it thru Walmart at half the price of everywhere else. A little over 5 bucks, no shipping/pick up in store next Weds

I added up my amperage loads on my car. With every single switch I have turned on I'm still only in the 40's. The only way I can test that circuit breaker would be to bench test it or short it out... so I'll just leave it be.;)

Ok, seems my issues are not resolved with a new alternator and voltage regulator. The batter still does not seem to be holding a charge. I think I will return it and see.

I had nothing on but the fan, so unless it is drawing all the amperage the battery simply is not charging.

Phil

Sure enough a bad cell on a month old Optima.

Phil

#3 on the checkout
 

Large Arbor Phil Save your money. Unless the battery is mounted, sideways or up side down. Get an interstate battery, pepboys or Sears diehard. They sell small ones with 700-800CCA. If you put a battery tender on it in the winter, it will last for years. The Idea I go with is remove it from the car and put it on a small wood pallet with a battery charger on a timer. It runs for 15 minutes, once a day. battery stays in top condition. Have gotten 6-7 years out of 5 year batterys. There are guys who have had problems with Optimas. This is not a cheap battery either.
This explains why the VR and Alt where stressed out and running max charging all the time until it cooked the VR. Recheck charging system after battery replacement. Could have hurt system again. If VR are cheap, get a spare and the tools you need to change it on the road. Just a thought. Gald you found the problem and fixed it. Rick L.

Would the car running or not be in your calculations? Wouldn't that be part of you stuff that would be using juice?

I want to put more grounds on the car. I particularly like the flat braided type. The places I found that have the sizes I like ,sell by bulk, no terminal ends.
Anybody know of a place to make custom pieces. Example: Little black wire from head to firewall. I would like to replace this wire with a a 12' piece, at least 1' wide x 1/4" thick, 3/8 terminal on one end(head) and 1/4 inch terminal on the other end (firewall). Or maybe make the hole bigger on the firewall and have 3/8 on both ends?
Anybody grounding the drivers side head? If yes, how are you running it and what are you using?
thanks...Dave