|
Quote:
|
Quote:
If I'm tracking down a bad connection, I use the voltage drop test. I think that's the number one electrical test that shade tree mechanics, working on "old school" type of cars, should be familiar with. You're right, there are lots of videos showing how to use the Voltage Drop Test -- it's pretty easy to learn. |
Picked up another VR and installed. Will charge the battery overnight and doublecheck wiring in the morning. Hopefully this will solve the problem.
Phil |
Still does not appear to be charging. Any chance I could have a bad disconnect switch? I am all out of ideas here on what to do next.
Phil |
Large -
Take a step back and test a few things instead of just replacing parts. 1. At the VR you can jumper terminals A and F. This should cause the alternator to go to full output (about 16V). 2. If 1 doesn't work then check continuity for the F (Field) and the A (Bat). Unplug the VR plug and disconnect the Alternator wires to make this check. Check for continuity from the black F wire at the VR to the black FLD at the alternator. Then do the same with the red (Bat) wire. The tests will verify good/bad for the VR and good/bad for the alternator. It also verifies good/bad wiring from the VR to the alternator. Page 11 of the ERA wiring diagram will show you diagrams of what I am talking about. Let us know the results. John |
1 Attachment(s)
I did just that and had a brother who is very sharp help. We traced the problem to this and is now solved and fixed.
|
Large,
Give us more detail on the picture. What is it and where was it found? John |
It was in the alternator feed to the battery. It was a splice and looked to be a type of fusible link. It gave up its location when we only measure 5V going to the alternator with the key off. Pulled the tape back and viola. Now I am on to starter issues in which it seems to be binding. The bolt holes for the Dynaforce were larger than the 5/16th (i.e. 1/2" head). I cut some 3/8th copper and made the bolts fit tighter in the holes and its a little better, but I will have to try shims. Dynaforce has no lateral movement so shims will only do in / out. I will have to try that later in the week. I think the starter was moving around because the bolts were smaller than the starter case holes. Something is not quite right, but I will get to the bottom of it. It may be its not pulling away enough from the flywheel or engaging too much. Thanks again for sagely advice.
Phil |
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:50 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: