Alternator / Voltage Regulator - Page 3

davids2toys · #1 (**permalink**) 09-04-2015, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Ahhhh, what you want is a "Programmable Recloser." They're used in the power distribution industry and you probably have one outside your house or down the street on your circuit. So, if Sammy the Squirrel is unfortunate enough to put one paw on the neutral and one paw on an energized phase he'll blow the recloser and your lights will go off. But the recloser will automatically try and reset a programmed number of times, like three, to see if the fault is gone (because Sammy was skyrocketed over in to your neighbor's yard). Since the fault is gone, your lights come back on. But if it's something like a big tree limb that's still on the lines, then the recloser comes back on, and goes off, and comes back on, and goes back off, and comes back on, and then goes off and stays off until the tree is removed. That's what you want... but they don't make them for cars.

I just got off the phone with Bussmann, and they actually have something very similar to what you are talking about. "It is called a Type II - Modified Reset.
The circuit breaker will remain tripped (in the OFF position) as long as there's power to the circuit, due to an internal resistor. Type II breakers can
be reset by turning off the circuit, or by turning off the ignition switch. These devices are sometimes called "non-cycling breakers." Several Cooper
Bussmann Type II breakers feature silver-colored bodies." this text is from their catalog. I was not that interested so I did not think to get a part number. I called back and left a message, because it actually does not sound to bad.
I still think I am leaning towards the pop out button though...nice and simple. I don't like the sounds of an internal resister either. I don't really know why, should I be afraid of it?
EDIT: More info from the Waytek site http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1...cuit-Breakers/
"Waytek carries thousands of circuit breakers for auxilary and accessory circuits on trucks, buses, recreational vehicles, marine, and construction equipment. From hi-amp circuit breakers to blade type electrical breaker. Waytek has rugged and reliable circuit breakers for exceptional circuit protection performance. To make a selection on which circuit breaker is best for your application, you must consider where the circuit breaker will be mounted, the current rating you need the electrical breaker to carry, and the type of reset method. Circuit breakers have four types of reset methods: Type 1 Automatic Reset, which means the circuit breaker keeps cycling on and off until the overload is removed, Type ll Modified Reset or Non Cycling, where the circuit breaker doesn't reset until the overload is removed or the the power is turned off, Type lll Manual Reset with the trip indication shown on the body of the circuit breaker and it must be manually reset, and Type lll Switchable, which is similar to Type lll Manual Reset, but the circuit breaker has a manual trip button."
I really like the Type 3 switchable, but it looks totally different, very heavy duty and waterproof. Also more expensive...IMO it would look real cool in a Cobra, but definitely not traditional to an ERA Cobra. Look on the bottom of this page http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1...I---Switchable

davids2toys · #2 (**permalink**) 09-04-2015, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

A manual reset isn't a bad idea. Next time I order, I might make the change. A Bussmann 123B50-A2P-KA should be a direct replacement.

Looks to be the same as this one I was looking at on Amazon:
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PHXVGQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DZMBT0I IAXRS"]Amazon.com: 50A MANUAL RESET BREAKER: Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31LnQhcOlfL.@@AMEPARAM@@31LnQhcOlfL[/ame]

I liked it because it seemed to be aimed at marine use.

Bob, a few questions.
My car is now 12 years old and I know CB's wear with time, so I would like to replace the original if for no other reason than that!
I noticed on my car the original CB has a metal body and hold down tabs, these new ones are plastic. Do these need to be metal for grounding purposes? Will the spread be the same so it will be as you say, a direct replacement?
Dave

strictlypersonl · #3 (**permalink**) 09-04-2015, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davids2toys

Looks to be the same as this one I was looking at on Amazon:
Amazon.com: 50A MANUAL RESET BREAKER: Sports & Outdoors

I liked it because it seemed to be aimed at marine use.

Bob, a few questions.
My car is now 12 years old and I know CB's wear with time, so I would like to replace the original if for no other reason than that!
I noticed on my car the original CB has a metal body and hold down tabs, these new ones are plastic. Do these need to be metal for grounding purposes? Will the spread be the same so it will be as you say, a direct replacement?
Dave

That will work. The case doesn't have to be grounded.

davids2toys · #4 (**permalink**) 09-04-2015, 02:14 PM

cool, thanks

Large Arbor · #5 (**permalink**) 09-05-2015, 10:04 AM

Ok, seems my issues are not resolved with a new alternator and voltage regulator. The batter still does not seem to be holding a charge. I think I will return it and see.

I had nothing on but the fan, so unless it is drawing all the amperage the battery simply is not charging.

Phil

Large Arbor · #6 (**permalink**) 09-05-2015, 12:47 PM

Sure enough a bad cell on a month old Optima.

Phil

RICK LAKE · #7 (**permalink**) 09-05-2015, 05:08 PM

Large Arbor Phil Save your money. Unless the battery is mounted, sideways or up side down. Get an interstate battery, pepboys or Sears diehard. They sell small ones with 700-800CCA. If you put a battery tender on it in the winter, it will last for years. The Idea I go with is remove it from the car and put it on a small wood pallet with a battery charger on a timer. It runs for 15 minutes, once a day. battery stays in top condition. Have gotten 6-7 years out of 5 year batterys. There are guys who have had problems with Optimas. This is not a cheap battery either.
This explains why the VR and Alt where stressed out and running max charging all the time until it cooked the VR. Recheck charging system after battery replacement. Could have hurt system again. If VR are cheap, get a spare and the tools you need to change it on the road. Just a thought. Gald you found the problem and fixed it. Rick L.

davids2toys · #8 (**permalink**) 09-06-2015, 12:52 PM

I want to put more grounds on the car. I particularly like the flat braided type. The places I found that have the sizes I like ,sell by bulk, no terminal ends.
Anybody know of a place to make custom pieces. Example: Little black wire from head to firewall. I would like to replace this wire with a a 12' piece, at least 1' wide x 1/4" thick, 3/8 terminal on one end(head) and 1/4 inch terminal on the other end (firewall). Or maybe make the hole bigger on the firewall and have 3/8 on both ends?
Anybody grounding the drivers side head? If yes, how are you running it and what are you using?
thanks...Dave

davids2toys · #9 (**permalink**) 09-06-2015, 01:01 PM

I want to put more grounds on the car. I particularly like the flat braided type. The places I found that have the sizes I like ,sell by bulk, no terminal ends.
Anybody know of a place to make custom pieces. Example: Little black wire from head to firewall. I would like to replace this wire with a a 12' piece, at least 1' wide x 1/4" thick, 3/8 terminal on one end(head) and 1/4 inch terminal on the other end (firewall). Or maybe make the hole bigger on the firewall and have 3/8 on both ends?
Anybody grounding the drivers side head? If yes, how are you running it and what are you using?
thanks...Dave

davids2toys · #10 (**permalink**) 09-07-2015, 01:18 AM

Dan, that car is way to clean!!!
I have a similar strap at the tranny but mine is running from the frame to the tranny mount bolt. I will have to give them a look for additional straps.
thanks

davids2toys · #11 (**permalink**) 09-07-2015, 09:57 PM

I will give it a whirl

Large Arbor · #12 (**permalink**) 09-12-2015, 02:10 PM

Hey Patrick and others,

New battery, new VR, and New Alternator and the battery is not staying charged. It was tested last week and had 800 plus cranking amps. I ran the car for 20 minutes and the battery is now reading about 9 volts with a charger on it. I took a voltage reading from the alternator when running and it read 18 V.

The only thing known drawing current is the fan. How do I diagnose this problem? Could I still have a bad VR?

Phil

strictlypersonl · #13 (**permalink**) 09-12-2015, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Large Arbor

Hey Patrick and others,

New battery, new VR, and New Alternator and the battery is not staying charged. It was tested last week and had 800 plus cranking amps. I ran the car for 20 minutes and the battery is now reading about 9 volts with a charger on it. I took a voltage reading from the alternator when running and it read 18 V.

The only thing known drawing current is the fan. How do I diagnose this problem? Could I still have a bad VR?

Phil

You should see a maximum of about 14.7V when charging a fully-charged battery. More than that and there's a problem in the voltage regulator, its circuit connections and/or its ground.

Large Arbor · #14 (**permalink**) 09-12-2015, 06:39 PM

Picked up another VR and installed. Will charge the battery overnight and doublecheck wiring in the morning. Hopefully this will solve the problem.

Phil

Large Arbor · #15 (**permalink**) 09-13-2015, 07:20 AM

Still does not appear to be charging. Any chance I could have a bad disconnect switch? I am all out of ideas here on what to do next.

Phil

Grubby · #16 (**permalink**) 09-13-2015, 08:40 AM

Large -

Take a step back and test a few things instead of just replacing parts.

1. At the VR you can jumper terminals A and F. This should cause the alternator to go to full output (about 16V).
2. If 1 doesn't work then check continuity for the F (Field) and the A (Bat). Unplug the VR plug and disconnect the Alternator wires to make this check. Check for continuity from the black F wire at the VR to the black FLD at the alternator. Then do the same with the red (Bat) wire.

The tests will verify good/bad for the VR and good/bad for the alternator. It also verifies good/bad wiring from the VR to the alternator.

Page 11 of the ERA wiring diagram will show you diagrams of what I am talking about.

Let us know the results.

John

Large Arbor · #17 (**permalink**) 09-13-2015, 10:16 AM

I did just that and had a brother who is very sharp help. We traced the problem to this and is now solved and fixed.

Grubby · #18 (**permalink**) 09-13-2015, 12:07 PM

Large,

Give us more detail on the picture. What is it and where was it found?

John

Large Arbor · #19 (**permalink**) 09-13-2015, 06:58 PM

It was in the alternator feed to the battery. It was a splice and looked to be a type of fusible link. It gave up its location when we only measure 5V going to the alternator with the key off. Pulled the tape back and viola. Now I am on to starter issues in which it seems to be binding. The bolt holes for the Dynaforce were larger than the 5/16th (i.e. 1/2" head). I cut some 3/8th copper and made the bolts fit tighter in the holes and its a little better, but I will have to try shims. Dynaforce has no lateral movement so shims will only do in / out. I will have to try that later in the week. I think the starter was moving around because the bolts were smaller than the starter case holes. Something is not quite right, but I will get to the bottom of it. It may be its not pulling away enough from the flywheel or engaging too much. Thanks again for sagely advice.

Phil