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Cam removal in an ERA/FE
I have ERA #797, and I'm thinking of changing out the cam in my FE. The car has a crossmember in front of the engine. As far as I can tell, to replace the cam with the engine in the car, it looks like I need to remove the radiator, and I may need to loosen the motor mounts and the trans mount, and jack the engine up about 1-2" so the cam can clear the crossmember when it's coming out.
Can anyone verify this, or let me know the ins and outs if they've swapped a cam in an ERA/FE with the engine in the car? |
Lippy - don't know the answer to your question for an ERA for sure but that's the usual approach in my C2 Corvette to clear the radiator opening cross-brace. It looks like Tremec transmissions may be a little taller than my Toploader so you might have to pull the transmission cover loose for room to lift the rear up - again not sure.
I know you have a large cam in the motor - downsizing a little? |
How many miles are on the engine? If you are going to be changing out the cam, do you want to change the bearings as well? I do not think that you can change all of the bearings with the motor in the car.
If you are able to get the correct angle with the engine in the car and the hood and radiator removed, you may want to also take into consideration the impact of the nose length getting in the way of the cam shaft installation. You cannot climb up on it like some cars and trucks, and there is no way that you can install the cam shaft through that narrow cone. |
Perhaps calling Doug at ERA would be helpful. He has the experience.
John ERA 289 Slabside #3010 |
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Take a moment and think about what you have to pull off before you get to the camshaft:
Front Cover Timing Chain and Sprockets Rocker Arm Covers & Shaft Assembly Intake Manifold Valve Lifters Oil Pan & Oil Pump Screen Camshaft Thrust Plate & Spacer ... and now you get to the camshaft. By that time you will have ruptured two disks in your back from all the bending, stooping, and lifting -- even coming in from under the car. You will undoubtedly ding that pretty paint job as well. So, pull the engine, and work on it on a stand. In the long run, you'll be glad you did. |
Why do you have to remove the "oil pump screen"? And what's a camshaft spacer?
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The heads are here because of valve guide problems. In the meantime, Jeff is rethinking where he needs the power to be and is looking at a cam swap.
If he can clear the crossmember, I certainly would not pull the entire engine. And your shop manual is wrong. |
Jeez, I'd of just shipped you the engine.;) You know I thought I remembered somebody doing an engine in cam swap on an ERA with an FE in it and talking about it here. I thought it might have even been Chas. But I did a pretty thorough search and can not find it. So, I may be mistaken on that. I still say pull the engine and work with it on a stand where you can sit on a comfy stool and take your time without feeling like you've been worked over the next day.:cool:
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I would be really surprised if there isn't room to get the cam out after clearing the suspension X-brace. just take the approximate length of the block and extend that measurement forward from the front of the block to judge how far the cam will extend upon removal. I think there will be plenty of room short of the snout opening - thanks to the healthy engine set back.
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You know it might have been Rick Lake. And even if it wasn't him I'm sure he would know off the top of his head. Do a quick search here, he's posted his phone number many times, and then ring him up and ask him.
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Whoever said I should speak with Doug...great minds.
I spoke with him this morning. He's done this on an older ERA. Consistent with my measurements, Doug said to unbolt the motor mounts, loosen the trans mount, and jack up the engine and put wood blocks between the frame and engine. 1-2" should be enough. So I should be able to do it. |
Remind me again what you had in there? And what you're opting for now?
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Big solid roller cam in there now with a HP peak at 6600. I may swap it out for one that peaks at 5800 and gives me a bit more torque down low and is more efficient at cruise. Just trial and error after living with the car for a bit, and it's (thankfully) rainy season here in CA so the car is off the road until March or so anyway.
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Lippy,
Good luck and take lots of pics to share with everyone here on the whole process. You could even start a new thread called "Lippy's Cam Swap". I am sure there are plenty of inquiring minds that would like to watch it all go down...what worked and what didn't.:cool: |
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