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Tips for pulling Toploader back out of car?
My toploader is working fine but is also doing a fine job of marking it's territory underneath. So thinking about going through it this winter and re-sealing it. I rebuilt a A727 torquflite and Muncie last year and neither leak so sealing this thing up shouldn't be too big a task. But not looking forward to pulling that heavy - ass thing out. I used an engine hoist to sling it in there but I would now have to go rent one. So anyone pull yours and have a couple good back-saving tips?
I figured pull seats, carpets and tunnel. Jack under bellhousing to elevate the transmission some and pull shifter/driveshaft, etc. Slide plywood underneath transmission and cover floor over to door sill. Install 4 6-inch dowels in transmission bolt holes to carry transmission weight while pulling it out of the clutch disc. And then what - drop it on the plywood and slide it over and lift out (aching back). Rent or borrow a hoist? Other ideas? Thanks Dan |
Not a toploader , but aTKO600R . If you`re doing this by yourself , get the hoist and use a sling. I never remove the carpet , just cover them . Get a plug for the rear output shaft to keep the oil in the tranny and not all over the car and floor. I remove the steering wheel for more room to maneuver . I also take the driver`s side door off for more room ....takes 10 minutes to put it back on and align it. If you pull the tranny from the passenger side , leave the steering wheel on. Obviously , the drive shaft has to be removed . On mine , I have to remove the e brake and cover as it`s attached to the tunnel .
Put the sling under the tranny , lift some and then remove the flange bolts. Lift the tranny some more and it will move back by itself . Then it`s just a matter of raising the back of the engine and sliding it back and raising the back of the tranny to get it out . If it binds , play with the engine height and or the tranny angle . Not a bad job at all except for aligning the input shaft with the splines in the disc . Sometimes it slips right in ,, sometimes you have to talk to it and play with the engine/tranny angles. Again, when it`s right it just slips in . Put your top bolts in first to keep stress off the input shaft. |
Dan,
For a couple hundred bucks you can buy an engine hoist and load leveler. Do you not want to mess with storing one? Evan |
Thanks - no need to disturb the clutch so I'm anticipating it should slide easily back in (well it should go back in anyway - not sure about easily). Sounds like one vote for borrowing/renting a hoist.
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Dan, it's only 100 lbs. -- just build a quick block and tackle hoist with 2 x 4 wood pieces and roller casters on the bottom. Use bolts to connect the pieces so you can easily disassemble them when you're done. With a weight that is only a hundred pounds, a 4:1 block and tackle will make it easy to lift up and the roller casters will let you roll it around to wherever you want it.
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I would also drain the transmission fluid first - no spills. Ask me how I know.
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http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps63ctoszk.jpg Hi Cobra - good point about draining the fluid - a Toploader does have a bottom plug to make that easy. |
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These Toploaders only weight about 20 lbs more than a Muncie but that 20 seems more like 40 when trying to cart it around. Thankfully Shelby didn't go to Chrysler for an engine in these cars - I think an A833 4-speed is about 115 lbs.
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Bottom line for transmission weight is that if you have a powerful engine, you need a solid gearbox behind it. The Toploader with shifter weighs in almost identically with a TKO600 at around 100lb.
Have you considered a small motorcycle scissor-lift table? I bought one for (eventually) installing my Toploader; fitted castor wheels to it for maneuverability. I used it recently for installing the diff. centre ....and that worked well. Load rating is around 135kg / 300lb and it cost around USD60 Cheers Glen |
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