Good location for ext oil filter 289 fia
I want to install an external oil filter on my ERA 289 FIA. Can anyone share a photo of where their's is located if you like where it is. I have the engine out and want to do the filter install and plumbing before I replace the motor. I don't want to put it somewhere it won't be optimal.
Thanks! Kim |
Kim,
On my SPF 289 FIA I mounted the remote oil filter on the inner fender wall. I would imagine that your ERA would offer this option as well. Due to the side support tubes on mine, I could not mount the filter low. You want to have the oil filter mounted on your remote fitting and test fit it before making it final. Make sure that you can access the filter and both remove and replace it. http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=16873&thumb=1 http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=16894&thumb=1 Jim |
Thanks, Jim. The ERA 289 has a front cross member that the oil filter can be mounted to and I seem to recall seeing a photo of it done like that somewhere. It seems to be a logical spot but I'd like to see it before I attempt it. Any ERA owners out there who have used this mounting point?
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Here are a couple of pics of my ERA 289's oil filter mount. Let me know if you need any other pics or info.
Best Regards, Byronhttps://s26.postimg.org/6mjkbo995/IMG_0225.jpghttps://s26.postimg.org/nn2gkdh5l/IMG_0226.jpg |
Do you have an oil cooler? If so, I'd recommend a thermostat for that, which you will also need to find competing space for. My ERA FIA uses the standard oil filter location on the SBF, but I can't use the full size FL1A, and had to use a smaller one.
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custom mount in a Unique
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Kim |
oil cooler and thermostat
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/DSCN6051.JPG http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/DSCN6051.JPG http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ument_size.jpg Akim,
I had a cooler installed without filter...it would take forever for the oil temp to approach 160+. In traffic it would come up to 180, and as soon as the car was moving it would drop drastically. At the track temp would come up through a series of turns and half way down the front straight temp would totally disappear. The CANTON thermostat I installed does a pretty good of job of increasing the speed of the oil to up from cold and RETAIN the heat when the car is moving. In retrospect the car had no need for a oil cooler. The engine is at ~11 to 1 compression, dynoed at 350 hp and 355 torque at 6000 rpm. It does not generate enough heat to really need a cooler. The remote filter was from ERA...mounts on the front of the left cylinder head. ERA supplied the aluminum plate that bolts to the head. Three pictures on my Club Cobra page of the CANTON thermostat installation. It is totally out of the way on the FRONT of the crossmember. Pete Munroe Gallery - Club Cobra Photo Gallery Trying to post the three photos without much luck...too small or too big...http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/DSCN6053.JPG |
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After only 4k? Naaah, and the thrust bearing could have come from your transmission shaft sticking in too far. And it's a myth that you have to get your oil temp up to 212 degrees to burn off moisture and contaminants. 180 to 185 is perfect -- there's loads of authoritative texts, studies, and SAE papers that confirm it.:cool:
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...um/oiltemp.JPG |
Akim
To the best of my knowledge oil FLOW is more important than pressure.
There is an interesting series of articles by "BOB the OIL Guy". Basically he is a proponent of using synthetics at low viscosities to increase flow at lower than optimum temps for the type of oil. You can have extremely high pressure but if it doesn't FLOW it can't transfer much heat, or maintain a hydraulic wedge in a rotating assembly. Another thought, is it actually making it to the end of the oil galleries? . When I installed my mechanical gauges I first put the temp sensor bulbs into boiling water to see if it was near 212...the oil gauge was dead on, the water temp gauge read 10 degrees low. When I rebuilt my engine at 17000 miles I added a bung on the oil pan to install an oil pan heater. Takes an hour at least to bring the oil temp up to 150, but at least I can drive the car when it is overall "cold" and not see a oil pressure spike off the gauge. Where I live I could drive for 20+ minutes and not have enough oil temp to safely wind out the engine getting on the freeway. Maybe one of the engine builders will weigh in here...help! Anyway, I DO NOT rev the engine up over ~3000 os so when the oil is below 170/180. My engine is 289/347. Apparently the guys with big block FE's have different issues. Pete |
[quote=patrickt;1435850]After only 4k? Naaah, and the thrust bearing could have come from your transmission shaft sticking in too far.
This is one of the things I'll be checking when I get things back from the machine shop. Also, there are heavy machine marks on the thrust surfaces of the crank. Should these be more of a polished surface? I'm finding other questionable engine build techniques like using 50g balanced flywheel and harmonic balancer on a 28g crank. They drilled the bejesus out of them to get a balance or close to balance, who knows. The engine never seemed to run smoothly since I bought the car. |
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I've seen many engines that run excessively high oil pressure gain power changing to the thinnest oil that gives respectable oil pressure. No point in running a high volume oil pump with high viscosity oil, just another hp loss. |
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If the crankshaft has been reconditioned, there should not be machining finish visible on a bearing surface. Gary |
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