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Old 01-01-2018, 03:22 PM
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Default Good location for ext oil filter 289 fia

I want to install an external oil filter on my ERA 289 FIA. Can anyone share a photo of where their's is located if you like where it is. I have the engine out and want to do the filter install and plumbing before I replace the motor. I don't want to put it somewhere it won't be optimal.

Thanks!

Kim
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Old 01-01-2018, 04:32 PM
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Kim,

On my SPF 289 FIA I mounted the remote oil filter on the inner fender wall. I would imagine that your ERA would offer this option as well. Due to the side support tubes on mine, I could not mount the filter low. You want to have the oil filter mounted on your remote fitting and test fit it before making it final. Make sure that you can access the filter and both remove and replace it.



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Old 01-01-2018, 11:13 PM
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Thanks, Jim. The ERA 289 has a front cross member that the oil filter can be mounted to and I seem to recall seeing a photo of it done like that somewhere. It seems to be a logical spot but I'd like to see it before I attempt it. Any ERA owners out there who have used this mounting point?
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Old 01-02-2018, 06:20 AM
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Here are a couple of pics of my ERA 289's oil filter mount. Let me know if you need any other pics or info.

Best Regards,
Byron
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Old 01-02-2018, 07:06 AM
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Do you have an oil cooler? If so, I'd recommend a thermostat for that, which you will also need to find competing space for. My ERA FIA uses the standard oil filter location on the SBF, but I can't use the full size FL1A, and had to use a smaller one.
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Old 01-02-2018, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byronpete21 View Post
Here are a couple of pics of my ERA 289's oil filter mount. Let me know if you need any other pics or info.

Best Regards,
Byron
Thanks Byron! Exactly what I was looking for!
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Old 01-02-2018, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66gtk View Post
Do you have an oil cooler? If so, I'd recommend a thermostat for that, which you will also need to find competing space for. My ERA FIA uses the standard oil filter location on the SBF, but I can't use the full size FL1A, and had to use a smaller one.
I do have an oil cooler but I have not heard of running a thermostat for it. I live in California so I'm not sure I would need this?
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Old 01-02-2018, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Akimbeau View Post
I do have an oil cooler but I have not heard of running a thermostat for it. I live in California so I'm not sure I would need this?
You are probably safe unless you like the cool days and evenings. Just keep an eye on your oil temp gauge and take it easy with the car until the temp comes up.
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Old 01-02-2018, 01:13 PM
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Default custom mount in a Unique



Filter under overflow on a Unique.
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Old 01-02-2018, 04:00 PM
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You are probably safe unless you like the cool days and evenings. Just keep an eye on your oil temp gauge and take it easy with the car until the temp comes up.
Will do.
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Old 01-02-2018, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66gtk View Post
Do you have an oil cooler? If so, I'd recommend a thermostat for that, which you will also need to find competing space for. My ERA FIA uses the standard oil filter location on the SBF, but I can't use the full size FL1A, and had to use a smaller one.
My on-engine filter is also the small size, one of the reasons I want to put on the remote filter. I'd like to run both filters so I don't have to buy an new adapter. Is this a bad idea?

Kim
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Old 01-04-2018, 08:36 PM
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Default oil cooler and thermostat

Akim,

I had a cooler installed without filter...it would take forever for the oil temp to approach 160+. In traffic it would come up to 180, and as soon as the car was moving it would drop drastically.

At the track temp would come up through a series of turns and half way down the front straight temp would totally disappear.

The CANTON thermostat I installed does a pretty good of job of increasing the speed of the oil to up from cold and RETAIN the heat when the car is moving.

In retrospect the car had no need for a oil cooler. The engine is at ~11 to 1 compression, dynoed at 350 hp and 355 torque at 6000 rpm. It does not generate enough heat to really need a cooler.

The remote filter was from ERA...mounts on the front of the left cylinder head. ERA supplied the aluminum plate that bolts to the head.

Three pictures on my Club Cobra page of the CANTON thermostat installation. It is totally out of the way on the FRONT of the crossmember.

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Trying to post the three photos without much luck...too small or too big...
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Old 01-06-2018, 06:51 PM
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Akim,

I had a cooler installed without filter...it would take forever for the oil temp to approach 160+. In traffic it would come up to 180, and as soon as the car was moving it would drop drastically.

At the track temp would come up through a series of turns and half way down the front straight temp would totally disappear.

The CANTON thermostat I installed does a pretty good of job of increasing the speed of the oil to up from cold and RETAIN the heat when the car is moving.

In retrospect the car had no need for a oil cooler. The engine is at ~11 to 1 compression, dynoed at 350 hp and 355 torque at 6000 rpm. It does not generate enough heat to really need a cooler.

The remote filter was from ERA...mounts on the front of the left cylinder head. ERA supplied the aluminum plate that bolts to the head.

Three pictures on my Club Cobra page of the CANTON thermostat installation. It is totally out of the way on the FRONT of the crossmember.

Pete Munroe Gallery - Club Cobra Photo Gallery

Trying to post the three photos without much luck...too small or too big...
That's interesting...I just did a tear-down of my engine and the bearings were toast after 4k miles. Especially the thrust bearing. I wonder if my oil temps have been running too low. Thing is my oil temp gauge hasn't worked since I bought the car so I don't know where the temps have been running. Coolant temps haven't been running too cool though. Hmmmm...
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Old 01-06-2018, 08:17 PM
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After only 4k? Naaah, and the thrust bearing could have come from your transmission shaft sticking in too far. And it's a myth that you have to get your oil temp up to 212 degrees to burn off moisture and contaminants. 180 to 185 is perfect -- there's loads of authoritative texts, studies, and SAE papers that confirm it.

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Old 01-06-2018, 08:32 PM
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Default Akim

To the best of my knowledge oil FLOW is more important than pressure.

There is an interesting series of articles by "BOB the OIL Guy". Basically he is a proponent of using synthetics at low viscosities to increase flow at lower than optimum temps for the type of oil.

You can have extremely high pressure but if it doesn't FLOW it can't transfer much heat, or maintain a hydraulic wedge in a rotating assembly. Another thought, is it actually making it to the end of the oil galleries? .

When I installed my mechanical gauges I first put the temp sensor bulbs into boiling water to see if it was near 212...the oil gauge was dead on, the water temp gauge read 10 degrees low.

When I rebuilt my engine at 17000 miles I added a bung on the oil pan to install an oil pan heater. Takes an hour at least to bring the oil temp up to 150, but at least I can drive the car when it is overall "cold" and not see a oil pressure spike off the gauge.

Where I live I could drive for 20+ minutes and not have enough oil temp to safely wind out the engine getting on the freeway.

Maybe one of the engine builders will weigh in here...help!

Anyway, I DO NOT rev the engine up over ~3000 os so when the oil is below 170/180.

My engine is 289/347. Apparently the guys with big block FE's have different issues.

Pete
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Old 01-06-2018, 11:23 PM
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[quote=patrickt;1435850]After only 4k? Naaah, and the thrust bearing could have come from your transmission shaft sticking in too far.

This is one of the things I'll be checking when I get things back from the machine shop. Also, there are heavy machine marks on the thrust surfaces of the crank. Should these be more of a polished surface? I'm finding other questionable engine build techniques like using 50g balanced flywheel and harmonic balancer on a 28g crank. They drilled the bejesus out of them to get a balance or close to balance, who knows. The engine never seemed to run smoothly since I bought the car.
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Old 01-07-2018, 12:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Munroe View Post
To the best of my knowledge oil FLOW is more important than pressure.

There is an interesting series of articles by "BOB the OIL Guy". Basically he is a proponent of using synthetics at low viscosities to increase flow at lower than optimum temps for the type of oil.

You can have extremely high pressure but if it doesn't FLOW it can't transfer much heat, or maintain a hydraulic wedge in a rotating assembly. Another thought, is it actually making it to the end of the oil galleries? .

When I installed my mechanical gauges I first put the temp sensor bulbs into boiling water to see if it was near 212...the oil gauge was dead on, the water temp gauge read 10 degrees low.

When I rebuilt my engine at 17000 miles I added a bung on the oil pan to install an oil pan heater. Takes an hour at least to bring the oil temp up to 150, but at least I can drive the car when it is overall "cold" and not see a oil pressure spike off the gauge.

Where I live I could drive for 20+ minutes and not have enough oil temp to safely wind out the engine getting on the freeway.

Maybe one of the engine builders will weigh in here...help!

Anyway, I DO NOT rev the engine up over ~3000 os so when the oil is below 170/180.

My engine is 289/347. Apparently the guys with big block FE's have different issues.

Pete
All very good points Pete.

I've seen many engines that run excessively high oil pressure gain power changing to the thinnest oil that gives respectable oil pressure.

No point in running a high volume oil pump with high viscosity oil, just another hp loss.
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Old 01-07-2018, 06:52 AM
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[quote=Akimbeau;1435858]
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Should these be more of a polished surface?
Maybe you could post some hi-res pics so that the experienced engine builders can see them. I do know that some tri-metal bearings can have funky coloration, which is perfectly normal, while other manufacturers might use different coatings, which make them look different but is also perfectly normal.
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Old 01-07-2018, 05:05 PM
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[quote=Akimbeau;1435858]
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
After only 4k? Naaah, and the thrust bearing could have come from your transmission shaft sticking in too far.

This is one of the things I'll be checking when I get things back from the machine shop. Also, there are heavy machine marks on the thrust surfaces of the crank. Should these be more of a polished surface? I'm finding other questionable engine build techniques like using 50g balanced flywheel and harmonic balancer on a 28g crank. They drilled the bejesus out of them to get a balance or close to balance, who knows. The engine never seemed to run smoothly since I bought the car.
Can you post a photo of these "heavy machine marks"?
If the crankshaft has been reconditioned, there should not be machining finish visible on a bearing surface.

Gary
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Old 01-07-2018, 11:00 PM
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[quote=Gaz64;1435905]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Akimbeau View Post

Can you post a photo of these "heavy machine marks"?
If the crankshaft has been reconditioned, there should not be machining finish visible on a bearing surface.

Gary
It was hard to get a photo that accurately shows the marks. It almost looks like someone went around the thrust surface with sand paper. I drag my fingernail across it and it's very apparent. It is not polished in any way.
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