Don:
Thanks so much for your detailed description of the use and fine details of the oil filling and such. Gratefull.

Hector:
Hey, that is nice to hear that the 2 Quart model works well. Since the guys at Canton are only perhaps 20 miles from me, I may drive on over there and see them and jawbone about the units and the size needed for my 428. I did not know they cam in anodized colors. I wonder what other options are available. Your engine compartment looks swell. Nice job. Shows da love.

Chaplin:
I will gather the details and if I go the Accusump route, I will take photos of the install process. Pray for me Chaplin... Pray for me.:LOL:

Was visiting ERA yestreday (12-17-2003) on the way home, as I wanted to pick up some parts that never made it onto my car. (the dash accent tubes and the header vent frames for the rear of the front wheel housings. This will give me something to do over the holidays and beyond)

Doug gave me some ideas about the mounting of the Accusump. He suggested a mount point of where the battery would normally go. (I have the rear mounted battery). He also gave me an alternative to pre oiling that is more in line with DCE's (Danbury Competition Engines) approach. He suggested an MSD kill switch which is hidden under the dash. When turned ON the MSD will not fire and you can turn over the engine and lube it. When turned OFF it would enable the MSD and allow iginition. It also serves as a sort of protection for the car as well. Another possibility.

Cars in the works at ERA were....

ERA #675 in the black looked just about ready to ship to its owner. This appears to be a rolling body and I do not know if an engine was in it as it was buttoned up. It had the big brake option up front I think. (exactly 300 cars since mine).


A really nice dark blue with white stripes 427 chasis had just arrived back from the painters and it looks really nice. Super paint job. I do not know what number that car was.
ERA #302 was being reworked for the current owner. This is a red 427 with white stripes. They were doing engine work and updating some things. Also a dark blue car in the #52x range was having some work done on it for the owner.

An interesting frame with no number on it yet was being fitted to an aluminum block with automatic transmission and DUAL paxton superchargers. They were working on the mount points and such prior to sending the chasis out for coating. Doug was working on this one. This is going to be a fast sucker, alot like the Shelby/Cosby car is what they said.

A light metallic FIA was nearing completion. Three GT40s were in stages of build with Ted having a grand old time.

Bob and Peter say Hi to All.

Art-
I have considered Doug's suggestion for pre-oiling, but I don't know how well it serves the purpose. The purpose of a pre-oiler is to pressurize the system and get oil on the bearings and up to the rockers before you turn the motor over and start it. By cranking it over with the ignition disabled, whether it be with a kill switch or removing the coil wire, you are still cranking the motor over dry for some period of time. It's probably better that just starting the motor, but ideally you want oil pressure before you crank it.

Mounting the accusump on the battery tray is a good suggestion

Art:
Thanks for the information relay. I wonder if I could ask you to stop by ERA once in a while once mine gets to the build stage. Not a lot, seven or twelve times a day would probably do it.
On mounting the accusump on the front battery shelf, that's one of the locations I've considered since I'll be going with the the battery in the rear and using the small 1 qt. unit. I'll have to wait until I get the beast to see if there's enough room to do it cleanly.
DonC

Chaplin and Don:

Yes, Chaplin, I do agree that turning over the engine to get oil up is less than optimal. A quandry.

I think that the 1 Quart Accusump could fit into the area of the battery nicely. One day I shall drive my car over to Canton and have them check that out. (When the weather is nice... It is NOT nice now).

Don: No problemo being your local eyes and picture snapper on your ERA when it gets to be a buildin'. Jusss let me know. I would be happy to help you out in any way I can. I have a digital camera.

Cheers

Art:
Thanks for the local eyes offer I'll be taking you up on it this spring/summer/fall/winter/spring........ when it gets going. All kidding about dates aside I'm expecting March or so for the start.
While I'm loath to disagree with Joe Lapine who'll be building the engine for me, I have to agree with Chaplin on the funcition of pre oiling. I called Joe a while back and asked him about using a pre oiler and he didn't feel it was necessary. I respectfully disagree but if I mention it to him it won't be until after the engine is built.
DonC

a427sc/Don,
Would you share the name of the sandwich adapter you used? Also, the mounting location of the Accusump tank and valve[manual or electric?] Best I could dream up for my ERA was tank behind dr. seat with line next to tunnel on the floor with my manual valve on floor at front edge of seat. Wasn't REAL happy with all this so I held off installing same. Any suggestions/info you might share would be very appreciated. Sorry to divert thread.

Chas The sandwich adapter is the one ERA uses for oil coolers without the remote oil filter. There are a number of sources, try Summitt, Jegs or call Fernando for one. The tank is mounted with the clamp/brackets from Accusump, bolted to some flat steel plates I worked up. My car is older and the cross in front of the engine is square tube, easy for me. The valve is mounted on a tee fitting, with the hose pointed up, together with the oilcooler return line. It all fits very close, if I did it again. I would consider moving it to the Accusump tank directly, but it is really ugly and green. Hope that helps.

Don

Don,
Many thanks for your info. I too have rectangular-braced early chassis. I'll rethnk the problem this winter based on your help. Roger on the ugly and green valve which is why I bought the manual also thinking I'd keep it near at hand in the cockpit.
Thanking you,

What would a complete Accusump setup cost to purchase and install ? Ballpark figure.

About $275 for the 2QT, electric valve, and clamps. Then you have AN fittings and hose.

Strong recomendation, stay away from the check valve. Use a T fitting or a Y fitting. Also using a filter sandwich works well.

What about the gauge and how much for the plumbing? piping and valves...
again, ballpark

Valves-Electric $107.50 or $148.50 depending on which type you choose.
Valve-Manual $7.50
Guage comes with the unit.
(www.cantonracingproducts.com)
Your individual plumbing requirements will dictate what additional piping and connectors you'll need.
Options for getting the oil into the engine - most common in plumbed into the return line from the oil cooler with a T and possibly a one way valve to prevent pre lube from going back to the pump rather than the rest of the system.
Alternative - a T adapter at the oil pressure sending unit that will allow the sump to be plumbed in at that point. To my way of thinking the oil pressure sending unit T might be the best way to go. Will have to wait until I acturally have my hands on the car for a final decision.
DonC

Just to throw some more fuel on the fire there is a member by the name of SuperHart that uses a pump type pre-post oiler system that also looks interesting. Pre lubes to about 50 psi and keeps on pumping for 5 minutes after shut down to reduce coking of oil on the bearings.
Might be something else to look at.
DonC

While thumbing thru the Eastwood Company catalog that arrived yesterday, I noticed another brand of Pre Lubrication System called the MasterLube which is made by Masterlube Industries. This is a complete kit with accumulator, brackets, electric selinoid, gauge, switch and Teflon/stainless hose. It comes in various colors and finishes and they have a portable model with quick disconnects as well.

Masterlube is on the net at http:// www.masterlube.net

and Eastwood which has all kinds of unique Automotive tools and supplies (especially body work, hot coatings, paints, finishes, buffers, resins etc) is at

www.eastwoodcompany.com

They are good folks and ship quickly.

I got the catalog in the mail yesterday also....
First time I ever received one... I'll thumb through it and see the item you're referring to...:)

I should be interested to know how those "materlube" units work. The Accusump uses a piston inside the cylinder to separate the oil/air.

If you have to mount the other unit vertically - does this infer no piston? I would be a tad worried about the oil foaming due to vibration if the unit were mounted on the engine block in that case.

I posted pics of my accusump setup here fyi:

http://www.superford.org/registry/ve...=15672#content

I didnt build the car, I bought it about 90% complete, and now I'm fixing the previous owner's screw-ups....I plan on neatening up the whole deal, like making a bracket for the solenoid, and redoing some of the plumbing for safety and better appearance....

Watch For Plumbing