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03-25-2008, 07:59 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Milford,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: BRG ERA street car w/428 PI, Sunburst wheels, undercar exhaust, original interior, no philips head screws!
Posts: 650
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Not Ranked
Drilling into painted fiberglass
I'm getting my car soon and there was a "mix up" at the factory (Peter!!!). I am building as close a clone as I can of his orginal csx car. Bottom line is I had requested holes be drilled into the proper position so I could install the street washer bottle and associated nipples to the right and left of the wiper arms. Well, that one slipped through the cracks, no big deal.
Anyone have an experience drilling into their car? A budy of mine has an ERA 289 and said he had to drill all his holes for the emblems and it was really no big deal.
I assume I do my measurements, use masking tape, drill a pilot hole to start and slowly make it bigger to fit the size of the hole I need.
John also told me that the area under the hole needs to be counter sunk so I can screw on the washer and nut that holds the nipple in place.
Anyone done this?
Last edited by 428street; 03-25-2008 at 08:02 PM..
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03-25-2008, 08:16 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Austin,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: Lonestar Classics, 302 stroked to 347; Metallic British Racing Green
Posts: 595
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Not Ranked
I did a number of holes in my Lonestar after painting, and pretty much the way you described "do my measurements, use masking tape, drill a pilot hole to start and slowly make it bigger to fit the size of the hole I need." Not that difficult, but as always, MEASURE 18 TIMES, DRILL ONCE!!
I didn't counter sink under ANY of my drilled holes, and would be wary of that. The fiberglass is not THAT thick, and I would be really nervous about judging the depth of the countersink!!!!!
If the nipple is short though, I guess you have no other options. Can you find nipples with longer threads perhaps?
Glyn
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Cave magister imperitus - Beware the inexperienced teacher
"No, I DON'T have an accent, this is how English sounds when it is pronounced correctly!"
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03-25-2008, 10:03 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Clemente,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX 4758, CSX 381 Keith Craft 482 w/ Weber 48 IDA's
Posts: 492
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Not Ranked
Agree with Glyn....and use new or very sharp bits. Pilot holes a must.
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03-26-2008, 06:35 AM
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Renegade Nuns on Wheels
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: columbus,
Oh
Cobra Make, Engine: Unique 427 roadster with 351C-4B
Posts: 5,129
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Not Ranked
I spin the bits backwards, prevents the bit from lifting the gel coat.
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03-26-2008, 06:50 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Glendale,
AZ.
Cobra Make, Engine: Cobray-C3, The 60's body lines on todays chassis technology
Posts: 2,302
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Not Ranked
For me taping area big enough to prevent the dumb mistakes is a must. Final drill bit is run at high speed but very little pressure. Pilot hole, step up in sizes till close to final diameter. If final bit only has to increase hole by maybe 20% and is sharp, high speed but light pressure it will not grab a big bite.
Really no big deal, just measure twice.
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03-26-2008, 07:47 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: California,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 Slabside Early Comp Car with 289 Webers and all the goodies. Cancelling the efforts of several Priuses
Posts: 6,592
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Not Ranked
There are drill bits made especially for "Plastic". They have a sharper point (less included angle). Consequently less chance of chipping paint or damaging Fiberglass. Be sure any and all bits are VERY SHARP.
__________________
Rick
As you slide down the Banister of Life, may the splinters never be pointing the wrong way 
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03-26-2008, 08:18 AM
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Member of the north
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Join Date: May 2003
Cobra Make, Engine: A Cobra
Posts: 11,207
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Not Ranked
I did the same as GlynMeek. Turned out good.
Dust off your work area a lot.
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03-26-2008, 11:12 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: San Diego,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF1715, Roush Built 434 ci Stroker, Dart Block, Ported AFR 205 Heads... 561 hp / 547 tq, Former Roush Show Car, Completed and Prepped By Olthoff Racing.
Posts: 1,066
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdorman
I spin the bits backwards, prevents the bit from lifting the gel coat.
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You can also use a counter sink bit before you drill the hole to cut away the gel and prevent it from lifting when you drill into it. This is a trick I learned from a guy that rigs custom boats. |
03-26-2008, 01:46 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Evans,
CO
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 FIA, 347 stroker with Weber 48's, building a '48 Anglia gasser, driving a '55 Chevy resto-rod
Posts: 3,119
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Not Ranked
Mask the area of the hole to be drilled, lay out your measurement and coat the pilot bit with silicone, drill slowly, then use a silicone spray and spray into the pilot hole, coat the next bit with silicone and make sure "All" your bits are sharp. I've used this method on my Cobra and various boats over the years.
Also pilot point bits work the best, IMO
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"Breathe in... Breathe out... then move on with life. Lifes too short to sweat the small stuff"
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03-26-2008, 03:56 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Milford,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: BRG ERA street car w/428 PI, Sunburst wheels, undercar exhaust, original interior, no philips head screws!
Posts: 650
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Not Ranked
Thanks guys I appreciate the advice...seems straight forward, measure three times, cut once. Use sharp bits...countersink possible gel coat.
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03-26-2008, 06:23 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Santa Barbara, Ca.,
ca
Cobra Make, Engine: R.U.C.C. with a 427FE, toploader
Posts: 1,435
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdorman
I spin the bits backwards, prevents the bit from lifting the gel coat.
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That is how I did it  and it is almost as easy as drilling forward 
__________________
Mike Z
Nothing sucks more than that moment during an argument when you realize you’re wrong. 
Last edited by Ibr8k4vetts; 04-12-2008 at 10:44 PM..
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03-26-2008, 06:40 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Milford,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: BRG ERA street car w/428 PI, Sunburst wheels, undercar exhaust, original interior, no philips head screws!
Posts: 650
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Not Ranked
I'm going to ask a stupid ? but when you guys say spin the bit backwards I assume you mean in reverse correct?
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03-26-2008, 06:43 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Santa Barbara, Ca.,
ca
Cobra Make, Engine: R.U.C.C. with a 427FE, toploader
Posts: 1,435
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Not Ranked
__________________
Mike Z
Nothing sucks more than that moment during an argument when you realize you’re wrong.
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04-12-2008, 01:27 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Wallingford,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 148 Nightwatch Blue
Posts: 397
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Not Ranked
Drilling into the fiberglass is done with a sharp drill bit and I like to start with a very small drill first, like a 1/16 then after you have verified that the hole is in the correct location you can move up to the desired size. If the hole is off alittle you can use a 1/8 inch drill to hog it out to the correct location the chase it with your desired drill size. If you need more information just give me a call
Ron
Last edited by Metal-morphous; 04-13-2008 at 09:23 AM..
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