Fuel filter and fuel pressure

PeteF · #1 (**permalink**) 06-07-2009, 02:58 PM

Hello Bob, need your help on ERA2041. About a month ago, the engine started running rough intermittently, and I suspected fuel delivery problems. Since there was no fuel filter (under the hood), and I coudn't see one under the frame, I assumed there was none. So, I installed a canister filter and pressure gage under the hood. The car ran fine for the past month, with about 5 psi fuel pressure (351W with mechanical pump, no regulator). Today, while the car is warming up, with the choke still on, engine speed suddenly drops. Car runs ok, but after a drive to fully warm up, fuel pressure is now steady around 3 psi. In talking with another ERA owner, I learn that there is indeed a filter by the tank, in front of the access panel in the trunk. Now, I'm suspicious of a clogged filter, or a failing pump. (the car has 38,000 miles).And, I don't feel comfortable driving around with 3 psi fuel pressure. I think a mechanical pump can push better than suck, so I want to remove the filter by the tank. I pulled the access panel, and can clearly see the filter, but can't get enough access through the frame and tank to remove it. Is there an easy way to remove this filter? Anyone else who can comment is welcome. Thanks

strictlypersonl · #2 (**permalink**) 06-07-2009, 04:14 PM

The "official" access is from underneath the car. The panel above the rear end has a cutout for it. Still not easy though.

PeteF · #3 (**permalink**) 06-07-2009, 08:05 PM

Thanks, I might try to get at it by removing the left rear wheel, from the side and below........by the way, I replaced my brake switch per your instructions, and it went very smoothly. I got the switch at my local NAPA store. Thanks for the excellent instructions, and responsive support.

PeteF · #4 (**permalink**) 06-09-2009, 07:00 PM

I removed the fuel filter at the tank today, and it went smoother than I expected. For those who may need to do this someday, here's what worked.....removed left rear wheel and trunk access panel. pinched fuel hose right at the tank, upstream of the filter using a special plastic hose pliers with lock. loosened clamp at filter and pulled filter off the tank hose from the left wheel well access. removed the other clamp from the filter. used a large screwdriver to deflect the sheetmetal fairing above the rearend to allow the filter to drop to the ground. installed a 3/8 tube jumper (made from an old Holley carb inlet line) where the filter used to be, using double clamps on each side.reinstall wheel and access panel. The filter didn't seem obviously restricted when blown through, but fuel pressure at carb now up to 6-7 psi, and all seems well. On a side note, I have owned the car over a year now, and the more I learn about it, the more I love it. The aluminum fuel tank is a work of art, as are the 6 pin drive wheels, which came off and went on smoothly. Thanks Bob and the guys at ERA for a fine machine.

Jim Holden · #5 (**permalink**) 06-10-2009, 08:36 AM

Always a good practice to take all four wheels off once or twice a year and re-anti seize the threads and the back of the knockoffs. There is nothing worse than having to deal with a frozen knockoff.

Jim

cscobra · #6 (**permalink**) 06-10-2009, 08:35 PM

1. I thought about the "cans," too, but it appears that repainting them becomes necessary from time to time and can rarely be avoided. The BMW reservoir is a good design.
2. By building a "street" version, I'll be able to rotate my tires each year, if necessary, when "re-lubing" the wheel attachment points.

Whatever you choose, the most important thing is to enjoy the car!

P.S. Wrong thread, buth the information is still good.