Leaking Crank Seal

[FatBoy]

I have a leak that drips from the bottom of the bellhousing. I realise that, this being the lowest point, pretty much any leak will eventually get to this point. I have checked all other points where a leak might originate and everywhere seems dry, so I have come to the conclusion that it is the rear crank seal.
My question, is it possible to replace the rear seal without removing the engine or stripping it? I'll obviously need to remove the gearbox, clutch and flywheel, but I would prefer not to have to lift the whole engine out.
However I end up having to do it, can anyone offer any tips or advice for ensuring an oil tight crank seal?
Thank you.
Paul

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by FatBoy

...so I have come to the conclusion that it is the rear crank seal.

Paul, you think it's the crank seal. Have you tried the paper towel test yet? http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/fe-talk/98959-over-heating-clutch-isn-t-engaging.html#post975874

[FatBoy]

I've just searched the FE Talk forum and found a couple of threads from 4-5 years ago that discuss this in some detail. I don't suppose the accepted logic has changed in that time.
Thanks again.
Paul

[Argess]

In theory, you can change the seal without completely dismantling the engine, but it will be very, very difficult to slide the new upper seal into place. Coating it in vaseline should help. I'd definately try it before pulling the engine.

You need RTV from the each side of the bearing cap cut-out to the seal and RTV along each bottom corner of the cut-out. Not too much. I find the nails sometimes tend to puch the side-seals down a bit at the final tap or two. So RTV can fill that space up too. Let it cure before installing the oil pan.

I currently have a leak from the dipstick tube where it joins a nipple on the oil pan. Left front top of pan. Under the car, all the oil appears to be coming from the rear seal, but its not. Rushing air blows it back.

[Bill Bess]

I thought I had a rear seal leak because the oil slowly accumulated and dripped from the bottom of the bell housing. It turned out to be the Canton oil pan seeping around the entire gasket area. I retightened all the bolts and WHA LA! the oil leak stopped.
Bill

[FatBoy]

There is no obvious evidence of oil running down the front face of the block plate, which I would have expected if my oil pan was leaking.
I'll try the white paper towel test and see what I can find.

Thanks,
Paul