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Replace it and drive on.
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Upon further examination tonight sans the alcohol enjoyed the prior evening, it would appear that in fact this is a crack. Inspection of the other 15 has revealed no similar issues. Talk amongst yourselves some more, its funny.:LOL:
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When I posted that thread last night, I was sorta expecting 4 or 5 concurring votes one way or the other. Nope, you guys had to get partisan on me. It may be nothing, but other than the weekend inconvenience of not driving it, its worth finding out if its a scratch or a fracture.
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I would say a push rod could be considered in such a service, depending on many factors. |
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Hell that explains everything.
Never ask your medical doctor for legal advice Never ask your mechanic for medical advice And never ask your attorney to build your engine To do so is a waste of money and time at best or certain death at worst :eek: :LOL: :3DSMILE: :) |
A 10X magnifying glass would probably have calmed your heart. I have seen parts that had what would look to be cracks to the naked eye. When you view it with a magnifier details show.
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I will wait for the Smith test to see
As far as pushrods are made, they don't do much welding any more. The tubes are cut to length. The ends are machined square. The end are super heated and the ends are pushed into the tubes. The machine holds the pushrod straight and cools it with oil. They check them for straightness and are either go or no go. Boxed and shipped The new taper ones are the newwer trick setups with 3/8" main bodies and 11/32 or 5/16 ends Stronger and more ridged.
Pat for a nice guy, I didn't think this was about winning or losing. I thought it was about a $20.00 part helping out a CC member, and possible saving a $20,000.00 motor from damage. Smith will test it I hope and we will all learn something new. As far as the piston deal I am again surprised about not having scuff coatings on the side of the pistons. Pistons used to have long skirts to stop rock in the cylinders and now they have almost none in some motors. I know the scratches you are talking about. It's funny I 3 years ago, put a stroker kit in my SC block and checked the liners after 8 years of racing. I found 1 cylinder with a scratch at .0008" Leak down test was between 4-7%. The #5 was the scratched cylinder at 7%. Maintainance and alot of oil changes helped reduce this problem. I have all pistons I install have scuff pads or coatings on them. They may last only 30- 50 thousand miles in a normal car and motor but in cobra motors, most are ready for a rebuild by this time. |
Replace the push rod, and send the old one to anybody that needs one for their FE motor....I'm sure they will appreciate your generosity.....or
.....Make sure you have a magnet on the drain plug to catch all the metal parts. |
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Shout about balls, pussies and declines and if followed, your un- thought out advice would have been costly to yet another CC'er. Stick to clown-show quizzes, puzzles and cartoons, which you're really good at- and put down the Zagats Guide from which you dispense authoritative, weighty technical advice. You're getting mud on your spats here.;) |
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