Well, I thought since he sponsors this FE Forum, he may or may not respond. I think he builds about 80-ish FE's per year, so there must be a few that have exceeded 8,000-10,000 mileage.

Rod,
Have you spoken to Tom about his engines in service?

Miles would probably be misleading. If there's anything to it at all, it would probably be "heat cycle" related. Meaning, if I'm going on a nice leisurely "country cruise" with my all aluminum FE, there's likely no more additional wear to the engine from driving 500 miles than there is for only driving 100.

No, but this thread is just an exercise in edification. It's not that important to me. However, so far, there aren't any owners with 8,000-10,000 that haven't had to open up their engines yet.

RemorsefulRod -- and that's what you get for unrequited aluminum lust.:LOL: For a longterm courtship, iron is the way to go.:cool:

Nothing to be remorseful about...yet.

Just looking to prove a theory, one way or another.

Aluminum is so pretty too.

Yeah, yeah, yeah... so was Gia. But the Bachelor gave her the boot as well.:cool:

:confused: :confused: :confused:

Uhh, my kids make me watch it.:rolleyes:
http://tvwatch.people.com/2010/02/22...-up-with-jake/

Uh, right.

Maybe just a reminder..

Some people follow a thread because they are interested in the topic.
...and they subscribe to it.
That means they get e-mails when new posts are added.
That means they come back to the thread when they get a notice of a new post.

In this case, today they came back five times to see that Statler and Waldorf are at it again. :rolleyes:

Please limit the sidebars on tech topics.

Thanks
ron
ClubCobra Moderator

Wasn't there someone here at Club Cobra, by the moniker of "Dynoroom" intimately involved with the development and testing of the CSX block? I've got to assume that they did some destructive testing for a while prior to it coming to market.

You mean like this?

http://sites.google.com/site/sefeldt...anging-out.JPG

I assume that low production specialty block manufacturers do not have the resources/budget to construct a block with integrated sleeves, instead of a slide-in or bonded type.

Honda's example;
http://dwolsten.tripod.com/articles/jan96a.html

I seem to recall while watching a production video on the (al.) ford romeo block, that a hard alloy skin is formed on the piston cylinder walls, and forms some type of metallurgical bond between the dissimilar metals.
I stand to be corrected, because I cannot remember if it was this ford block or not.

2011 shelby engine;
"The new engine uses state-of-the-art Plasma Transferred Wire Arc (PTWA) liner coating, a process that applies a 150-micron composite coating that contains nanoparticles on the internal surfaces of engine cylinder bores, replacing cast-iron liners typically used in aluminum engine blocks. The Intellectual Property Owners Education Foundation honored the inventors of the Ford-patented PTWA technology with the 2009 National Inventor of the Year Award."

That would be Michael LeFevers....haven't seen him log on to CC since December 2009

He owns MiTech Racing engines located in CA.

I was 15 yrs old when I assembled my first solid lifter engine (a 396/402 chevy). I set the valves by taking to zero and then backed off enough that I could wiggle them. Figured no point in measuring until it was warmed up. I couldn't get it to start, until I backed them off another 1/4 turn (if memory serves me). You sure you can start an engine with the valves never touching the seats? Wouldn't the valves overheat before you could get the engine warmed up? I'm very curious here. Is this theoretical or are there indeed solids out there that have a negative lash when they cool off?

Any way I have to say hydraulics would be best in an all aluminum push rod engine. The taller the deck the better the hydraulics look to me.

Motor warms up fast
 

Olddog My motor warms up to 180f in about 3 minutes. I was told that the expandsion rate of the aluminum is about.0012" from cold to hot. Iron motor is about.0006-.0008". I have not worked with solids since the hemi car.
As far as most aluminium cobra motors here, it seams the last 2-3 years have gone to hydro roller motors over solid roller. As far as lasting life of a motor, the hydro will last longer overall than a solid. Solid makes more power, higher rpm range, adjusting the valves can pickup a couple of extra HP in the top end. RPM limit for solids 10,000 rpms +. Hydro roller cam motor 7,600 rpms in a gm motor. FE motor looks to be about 6,800 rpms. Hydro roller lifters are heavy.
I am running the same block for 12 years and added a stroker kit 3 years ago. except for a glaze breaker and extra fine stone hone to do a little cleaning, there was nothing wrong with my motor except for a scratch in #5 cylinder wall and a higher leakdown than in other cylinders. I do use every sealer, coating, luberate to extend the life of my motor and prevent leaks. I do think that my FI system helps with keeping the motor from getting the cylinder walls washed down from racing and stops super rich black smoke turns. Carbs not setup right seam to do this to motors.
As far as a solid lifter adjustment I had always done this on a hot motor and never had an issue with starting. A FE motor is not a Hemi designed motor either. Ask one of the Cammer guys about this also. Rick L.

I was being slightly facetious with the "negative lash," since obviously you can't use a feeler gauge to do that. But the point is real, and this is one time where I, too, am on the hydraulic lifter bus. On certain alloy FE builds, the cold lash will actually be darn close to zero. But this requires an authoritative quote, not just my say-so. So, click here: http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/show...0&postcount=48

Here's a dumb somewhat related question. Won't the bronze distributor gear for roller cams wear out and potentially ruin any block, if not checked? Not that replacing a bronze distributor gear is surgery for an aluminum FE, but it would seem that a failure could ultimately reduce the chance of a "high mileage" aluminum FE.