New Member ....

[Wheeler]

I am new to this forum, I am here to learn how to properly identify a 427 engine. I have this engine in a boat and am getting ready to remove and sell. I will need to determine the true identity of the engine prior to listing it for sale. The engine was purchased from Ford Power Parts some years back and this is where the validity of the engine comes into question. The engine was sold as a 427 low riser, top oiler block with a 428 crank. I have not had the engine apart yet and will need to pull the pan at some point to take a look inside. I will find the original sales receipt and post more info. when I do.

Any way, this is my introduction.


Ps. here is a picture of the boat.

[RICK LAKE]

Wheeler The only true way is to pull a haed and measure the bore and stroke of the motor. 427 are 3.78" stroke and the bore can be up to 4.25 at .060" over. These motors have thin walls and the safe max over bore is .030". A 428 crank has a stroke of 3.98" Rods are the same length either way. You didn't say if this motor has a enclosed coolant system or pulls from outside. The issue is rust in the block and having any thin spots. Make sure you sell the motor as is and get it in writing. You also might want to check the FE forum for more info and selling it there. Sonic checking all the cylinders is the best way to know how good the motor is. Thick walls and you have a good core block. Thin spots, possible blow outs depending on location and stress area. The motor is running, show and sell as is. Unless it's a side oiler block, this motor block could be a 352-428. They all look the same. Rick L.

[Wheeler]

Thanks for the info.

[Danr55]

CHeck the side of the block. If there are three cross bolted mains, it is definitely a 427. If it does not, it may still be a 427. Check the side of the block below the cylinder walls. Look for cross bolts in the block. If it is cross bolted, it is a 427.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by Danr55

CHeck the side of the block. If there are three cross bolted mains, it is definitely a 427. If it does not, it may still be a 427. Check the side of the block below the cylinder walls. Look for cross bolts in the block. If it is cross bolted, it is a 427.

I thought some of the 406's had cross-bolted mains? Also, I thought you could modify any FE for cross-bolted mains?

Although I agree if it has cross-bolted mains, then it is more than likely a 427.

[FWB]

casting numbers will be near the oil filter housing embossed into block. a pic of the engine would help.....

[Ibr8k4vetts]

Originally Posted by dcdoug

I thought some of the 406's had cross-bolted mains? Also, I thought you could modify any FE for cross-bolted mains?

Although I agree if it has cross-bolted mains, then it is more than likely a 427.

You are correct

[RICK LAKE]

Danr55 Dan I have seen 390 & 428 block with 427 caps in the block in the 2,3,4 postions. Bore and stroke are still the best ways. Numbers on a block can also be duplicated and acided to match a car original car that is worth thousands more if the original motor is in the car. I have a set of 427 caps with the correct bolts for a FE motor. I was going to use them on a 428 motor I have that turned out to be a 410 motor. It has a 390 bore and 428 crank in it. Yes I got screwed on it for not doing my OWN homework and trusting someone else. Now I double check everything. Pictures of the motor would help alot but still pulling a head and measureing bore and stroke the old way is the only real way. Rick L.

[ZOERA-SC7XX]

I agree with RL, check the bore (and stroke) yourself. It's your money.

[Barry_R]

The 427 standard bore is 4.233.
The 428 standard bore is 4.130
The 390 standard bore is 4.050

You cannot reliably turn one into another one - no matter what the guy on ebay claims.
You can however stroke them with good results.

There were so few 406 blocks cross bolted that there may as well be none.
There were so few 427 blocks without cross bolts that there may as well be none.

If you pull the pan take some pics - it'll become pretty obvious.