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Yes, I have the cam card. Here it is:
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EDIT -- of more interest, though, is the fact that your intake center line is 105 and your lobe separation angle is 106. Your builder probably installed the cam with the key in the 2 degree advanced slot and it measured out at 1 degree advanced. Now, let's see if ol' Chas can explain the math.... |
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I'm definitely a little confused, but hey, that's what being a rookie and learning about my FE is all about I guess.
A couple of other questions/clarifications: -So I can use the method that Patrick described for lash adjustment, right? -Any tricks for breaking the valve covers loose? I was going to first tap them a bit with a rubber mallet and then if i couldn't get them loose, to pry from the intake manifold side as gently as I can. -When I reinstall with new gaskets, what's the recommended silicone sealer? I appreciate the time and advice. Doug |
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Where's Rick Lake or Chas when you need them?
Way above my pay grade. |
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While your waiting for Chas, any last comments on these:
A couple of other questions/clarifications: -So I can use the method that Patrick described for lash adjustment, right? -Any tricks for breaking the valve covers loose? I was going to first tap them a bit with a rubber mallet and then if i couldn't get them loose, to pry from the intake manifold side as gently as I can. -When I reinstall with new gaskets, what's the recommended silicone sealer? |
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Easiest way to remember how to run the valves:
Set the intake when the exhaust valve is starting to open. Set the exhaust when the intake valve is starting to close. Don't use the TDC method. It's not accurate. Remember that if you set them cold, that the lash will increase when the motor heats up. If you're starting from scratch, set your cold lash about .006" lower than what you want it to be hot. |
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The ICL of 105 is crank degrees. The LSA of 106 Is cam degrees which = 212 degrees of crank rotation. Thus-212-105=107. Installing the cam +2 (crank) degrees means the cam is 1(cam) degree advanced. I left my Euclidean hat at the haberdasher-but I know that's some pu$$y cams you guys got. And dc is bleeding off a lot of cylinder pressure with 106 LSA-those valves are open a long time together-especially with .501 net lift. A 110 LSA would sharpen-up the bottom end, especially with stock med-risers. It must be noisy but doesn't breathe. dc- use RightStuff on the cover to gasket and brown axle grease on the gasket to head. It will not leak. Use a 1" wide paint scraper or spackle knife to get between the goo you have now and the head to remove the covers. Clean all surfaces carefully. Take your time and you'll enjoy the work. If stuck, you could always ask Karnak to explain the Pythagorean Theorem-AGAIN!**)**)**) |
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Exhaust Duration = 48+14+180 = 242 Exhaust Center Line = (242/2)-14 = 107 Intake Duration = 16+46+180 = 242 Intake Center Line = (242/2)-16 = 105 Lobe Separation Angle = (107+105)/2 = 106 |
Are you trying to make up for the pushrod ordeal Patrick?
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Thanks again guys. Appreciate the help from all of you, including Mr. Magoo and Karnak the Haberdasher. :D
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But Pat-SERIOUSLY---TO WHAT END???? You have made a sub-atomic examination of your basically 1 HP per CI 447 rebuild. Great. But instead wouldn't you rather get techno-nuts if you made-oh say- 1.3HP/CI? 581HP would be worth all the charts, graphs and equations and helpful to find even more power. My cam is just starting where yours gets paralyzed. Wouldn't you rather run 11's than pore over data just to give rooks sermons?? Helping guys is great but not giving lessons and homework. Cruising and waving to the adoring sheep is for losers. Then writing endlessly (10,400+ posts) about it is sad. Get out there and (try to) shred those Yokos!:o |
Ah man, I want a fancy nickname now. :(
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