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Keith & Barry -- Thank you both; excellent advice, as usual.
Brent -- I'll degree it just to make sure. I'm betting it will be off -- everything I buy for that car is, but that's half the fun... Rick -- I'm not about to rebuild that POS dampner.:cool: But thank you for the thought. BTW, for what its worth, in Steve Christ's book (page 137) he says to put the dampner on by whacking it with a hammer and that it can be pulled on by installing the center bolt. For decades I've done it that same way, but, WTF, I'll go ahead and take the advice of all of you and pull it and install it with the special tool. I need another tool anyway.... (My Haynes Techbook Ford Engine Overhaul Manual does say to use the special tool, though.) |
Which one you gonna buy Patrick? The ATI?
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Have you ever been a sweetheart to me? ;)
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Tell you what, if you put together a little package of that dampner, the special pull/install tool, and an ARP bolt, I'll buy it from you.
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If you have your heart set on an ATI, I can't help, but Keith or Barry can get those for you. I can do Romac or P/P.
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Well you can't say I didn't try.... But what does irritate me on the car forums that I frequent is when somebody posts a nice thread on something breaking, solicits recommendations on the best replacement part, but then doesn't follow it up with pics of the R&R to help the next guy that has exactly the same problem. So I'll take some shots during the R&R and post them.
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Pulling the crank bolt -- this is a "French Curl Bar" that I use on the end of a breaker bar that has a 15/16" deep dish socket. Supposedly the bolt is torqued to something like 90 ft/lbs -- it comes off pretty easily though with the weight lifting bar on it. Here are two shots:
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...alancer001.jpg http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...alancer002.jpg Crankshaft Bolt is out -- no thread lock on it, btw. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...alancer003.jpg Three pulley bolts are now easily removed -- no thread lock on them either. I didn't bother loosening the alternator either since the pulley easily comes straight off. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...alancer004.jpg My "two piece" dampner does not pull off, and I'm not going to pry it, whack it, etc. I'll pick up the puller/installer tool this week. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...alancer005.jpg Here's a shot of the pulley -- I can't tell whether the holes have been worked on or not. I'll see when the new dampner comes. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...alancer006.jpg That's as far as I can go today. BTW, thoughts on using thread locker on the crank bolt and/or pulley bolts? |
I do. Blue.
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I was wondering what happened to you yesterday. Sorry to hear about the damper. I thought you might be re-wrapping and taping your rollbars all the way down to the paint. :LOL:
The pig was great, the day was hot, the company was great and it was nice to get my car up on the scales. My cross weights are pretty good by the way. I do weigh in at a portly 2600 lbs though with an estimated 15 gal of gas in the tank. %/ Trying to be period correct does have it's price. :o Hope the new assembly goes together easily. |
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Did the motor rotate backwards when you used your rube bar?
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Use the ARP spec that comes with the bolt. Don't remember but I think mine was 105-115 lbft. Yours should not break so easily-you were lucky.
I also hate turning the crank bolt when adjusting valves. Years ago Powerhouse (now owned by Comp) made a neat tool when Roy owned the company. It was for Chevs but I tried to adapt it. Had three holes which were attached by the pulley bolts and a 1/2 square hole in center for a ratchet or extension. Was not deep enough for the FE application. They don't show them on their site now. |
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I could see how you could make the crank bolt fail in a Chevy.....but not a Ford engine. All Ford crank bolts are 5/8" diameter. That's one thing I could never understand about the Chevy junk.....fasteners were all the size of pencils.
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