Valve cover gasket alternatives to cork
 

I know that we have had a bunch of threads on this, but still want to get your advice. I currently have the Fel-Pro Performance Z1632 Blue Stripe Valve Cover Gaskets, Cork/Rubber, .172" thick. They are sealed to the covers with Right Stuff and I put a thin film of grease on the head side of the gasket (ERAChas's advice). They are torqued properly, not over torqued, etc. They seem to be made of more cork than rubber and they leak. :mad:

I have pentroof valve covers. I mostly drive my car on the street, with some autocrossing, although I'd like to get it out on the track some next year. I also pull the covers at least once a year to adjust my lash (SFT), so being able to reuse them would be a bonus (I don't reuse the cork ones).

I want to move to either composite or rubber. So my questions:

What is the right thickness ?

Opinions on these gaskets?

Edelbrock 7568 Valve Cover Gaskets, .310" thick, CRC (core-reinforced-composite, "multi-layer construction consists of two highly compressible, high-rubber content, fiber-reinforced outside layers chemically bonded to a high-strength composite core")

SCE Gaskets 234175 - SCE AccuSeal Pro Valve Cover Gaskets, .125", laminated high-temperature silicone/Cork

SCE Gaskets 234175 - SCE AccuSeal Pro Valve Cover Gaskets, .250", laminated high-temperature silicone/Cork

Fel-Pro QVS13049R Valve Cover Gaskets, rubber, not sure of thickness

I am open to others too, these just happen to be the ones that Summit sells, so I started there.

I don't really care about price difference, I care about them not leaking.

Thanks!

I use the rubber FelPro FEL-VS-13049-R. 3m WeatherStripped to the valve covers, slight grease on the other side. They do not leak. Yes, you read that right. They do not leak.

I use Fel-Pro corks, mated to the pent roofs using The Right Stuff and using ERAChas' nasty brown grease on the head side. NO leaks.

ERAChas is my hero. He is also my own personal 2x4 tuning adviser.:D

Me too. I'm going to name my next child after him. Regardless of whether it's a boy or girl.:cool:

Doug, which grease are you using? I tried normal bearing grease and they leaked. I bought some of that nasty thick brown chassis grease and that did the trick.

I just used my standard grease that I use for drive train/suspension zerk fittings, etc. It's more grey/black. I forget which brand, but doesn't sound like what you are talking about.

I figured it didn't really matter (I didn't have any grease on there before). So which grease specifically should I be using? Also, how much of it? I think I just used a thin film last time.

Had that since high school auto shop? ;)

It matters. I stopped at a semi-truck repair shop and they gave me a Solo cup full of the nastiest brown sh^t called Mystik OG-5 outside gear grease. It's like glue and it works great.

Well, mine still don't. Doug, you can over-think this stuff. You don't need gaskets from outer space to stop leaks.
The most likely source of the problem is the joint between head and intake, one being higher than the other. To cure the mismatch, carefully clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner. Apply a bead of RightStuff on both head and intake rails across the joint. Don't skimp or worry about neat. Take a strip of kitchen cling wrap and lay it over the R/S along the length of that head/intake side. Clean the valve cover rail. place a new gasket on it then place down, compressing the R/S on the head. Torque lightly and let dry 5-6 hours. Remove parts and slowly peel off the cling, it will release from the R/S. Then trim the squish-out with an X-acto. You should have one side nearly flat and the other filled with R/S like a tapered wedge. This gives the gasket an even surface to clamp on. Then apply covers according to the previous procedure. It took longer to type this than it will take you to do.
If there's no mismatch in the first place (doubtful) then you're doing something wrong in the first procedure.

I just hope it doesn't have two heads...

Same stuff I style my hair with.

It took you more than 6 hours to type this message? :D

Thanks for the tips. I'll give it another shot soon.

And cork is better than rubber or composite, or doesn't matter as long as I fill the seam/joint and use the right grease?

Cork is what I have now (and in the past) and is working as stated. I have also tried all those other types, fibre, rubber, steel composite and linguine-they will all work with this procedure.

Yes on the grease. The stuff that actually works is "open gear" grease. It's the stuff that you put on big-ass, outdoor gears like cranes, and what not. Very sticky and it holds up to anything, including high temps. Finding that sort of stuff in small quantities is the tricky part.

This stuff will do the trick...
 

http://www.neelyindustries.com/image.../1122-397g.jpg

Dow Corning 1122 Chain & Open Gear Lubricant

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=200463637106

Just try not to breathe the fumes.



...

Brown freakin axle grease and you can breathe it or eat it like I do.

BTW Chas, I just bought a new toy (a tool) but I'm not going to tell you what it is until I get a chance to use it and take some cool pics, maybe even a video.:p

I just bought three caulk-sized tubes of the Mystik. PM me if you want one.

Video's for clown parties-I'll get Jim Cameron on the horn and he'll help you make an EPIC.
Let me guess:
An in-dash, quick-disconnect, Zagat Guide holder?
A trunk-mounted ShamWow dispenser?
A tunnel-mounted Magic Pet Hair Remover?
Has Billy Mays called yet about plugging your fantastic multi-LED, nearly invisible, 3rd brake and license plate light???


Uh-I didn't think so...