FWB Fred Some lifters you can sneak out others you can't Guessing you have the later. Before you pull the pan, just get a dial indicator and rotate the motor once. check the height of the lifter in that bore with the others.
I know you guys love solids and at one time I did too. There are some tricks to help get more
oil to this area
Groove the lifter bore with a .010" groove to direct
oil down to the camshaft roller contact point.
Run without a windage tray. IMO this stops alot of spray from hitting the camshaft area.
Go to Hydros, You can get a camshaft with .650" total lift and still be streetable.
Lucas additive for
oil. It cost a couple of HP but stops dry starts and sticks to parts. The important thing is to add this with hot oil and pour it slowly into motor. Then go for a 2-5 mile road test.
Oiling system, again IMO HVHP oil pump with a min of an #80 pound spring in the pump. I don't believe that at idle the pressure are enough to protect the upper end parts. I run between 1-1.5 of extra oil in motor and have a 3 quart accusump for steady pressur when racing. This is important for spirted street driving too. Long sweepers will kill oil pressure unless you are overfilled. Remember that what you see at the Gaue of your car is at the filter housing, the beginning of the oil trip, not at the last rod or lifter bore in the heads or rocker shafts. There is a 20-30 psi drop depending on how loose the bottom end is. If you are running limiters in the heads, .080" is save with erson rockers, Have seen blueing when running 60# psi.
If you have to rebuild the motor, look at dropping the rpm range, extending the motor life and still having alot of road time with less or little maintainance. Hydros do work, KC racing makes custom camshafts that will give you plenty of power and a nasty idle if wanted. If setup right, 6,200-6,500 rpm is doable with the correct lifter preload on the lifters. Rick L.
Pull the lifters??
Threaded Mode
