FE clutch options

[fordracing65]

For a 482 FE what clutch would you recomend for street strip use, 600hp with a tko 600 trans, twin or single disc, Keith Craft recomends single disc I heard for a few more dollars a twin is the way to go, going to use Mcleod brand. Pros and cons of each, which has a easier pedal feel. etc.
(which one will last more miles before needing to be replaced under normal driving)

[maurice19]

I have the 12 inch Mcleod on my 511 FE and it seems to work and wear nicely. I changed out my throw out bearing 20 or so months ago and the old plate still looked great. I did replace it just for added longevity

I do believe the twin, if it were a smaller diameter, would rev up quicker.

Maurice

[RICK LAKE]

Fordracing 65 Here's my feeling on this. I have run a single for years with a mild motor of 368HP and 448torque at flywheel with a 2,800 pound pressure plate. I had no problems after removal of weights on it. Ran this setup until I also went to a 482 stroker kit. My motor is now 620ft of torque and 540 HP. The single didn't hold up and was glazing the disc. If you roll on and off the throttle smoothly it will hold but anything harder it slips. I have gone to the street twin in my car but have not got many miles on it for breakin of the setup. I can say the pedal is lighter and soft and there is only slipping of the tires to the road. This setup bolts on to a stock flywheel or you can go smaller and lighter if you want. Setup of the pedal is also important for having a stop and not over extending the pressure plate fingers. Bylkins sold me the setup with matching thrown out bearing. instructions are simple and easy to follow. Doing job on lift about 3 hours on your back in driveway all day with pests. Make sure you follow breakin procedure. IMO once you pass the 500HP and tork I think this is a better way to go and hold all the power. Only down side is the discs are solid mount to the hubs and not spring loaded. The springs absorb some of the drive train engagements. With going to a stronger clutch assembly you will find out over time what is the next weak link to the cars drivetrain. I don't heard any chatter with it disengegaged. Time will tell. Rick L.

[Dimis]

I'm looking at much the same set up and have opted for the RST TWIN from blykins

[blykins]

It depends on what you can put up with. If you can handle a little chatter, then a McLeod 11" Long or 11" Diaphragm pressure plate with their 600 series disc will work just fine, or a RAM Powergrip HD clutch kit will work fine too. I use RAM & McLeod on all of my engines.

If you want something that drives like a new Mustang or a new Honda, then the McLeod RST is the way to go. 800hp, no chatter, no funny business.

When you start getting up to the clutches that will hold 600hp, they're going to be expensive anyway, so it's only a $200-300 upgrade to go to a twin disc.

Just stay away from brands like Centerforce, Zoom, Spec, etc. Don't let anyone, no matter who they are, tell you that a Centerforce clutch will hold 600hp, or that you only need something like a Ford Racing clutch kit...that's how clutches get smoked.

Package deals are available.....I've got 2 aluminum FE's in my shop as we speak.

[4SECA]

We have for years used a CenterForce Dual Friction on a Alum Flywheel...
This was in very fast winning vintage racing 13.5 to 1 , 8200 rpm ,CSX Cobra.

I also have Dual Friction in use in Street 500 hp CSX car now, this car has been on the track .
I hope this info helps.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by 4SECA

We have for years used a CenterForce Dual Friction on a Alum Flywheel...
This was in very fast winning vintage racing 13.5 to 1 , 8200 rpm ,CSX Cobra.

I also have Dual Friction in use in Street 500 hp CSX car now, this car has been on the track .
I hope this info helps.

Save your breath -- Blykins has been anti-Centerforce for as long as I can remember. I think it stems from the fact that Centerforce is overpriced, has those gimicky little weights that we all remove, and he has probably had more than a few phone calls because they have broken on really big mills. I have a Centerforce DF clutch on the Centerforce aluminum flywheel and it's fine for me (under 500HP at the flywheel). It doesn't chatter, it doesn't have too much pressure at the pedal, and I got a cool sticker with it. I have absolutely no doubt that I could have gotten the same performance for less dough, but, WTF (the flywheel was particularly expensive). I tested its hold just last week and my test is a simple test -- I just accelerate from a roll and keep giving throttle until the tires break loose while trying to feel any clutch slippage before the tires go. I don't know any other way to test it, and that test has worked well for over 30 years. I have 295/50 Yoko Avids; they're alright, but certainly not drag slicks. When the CF does go, I'll just ask Blykins for something that bolts right up as the CF did and I'll put in whatever he sells me.

[RICK LAKE]

Center force is no better or worst and any other clutch. The problem is the weights on the pressure plate and running an organic disc. Over 3,000 rpms I couldnot shift the car PERIOD. This was on a new 6 spd richmond. Richmond said that it was possible of too much torque for the trans. I brought a G-Force 5 spd and got the same problem. I called Centerforce 5 times and talked to tech guys tell me it was everything both the pressure plate weights. I asked 3 different people to EXPLAIN how the sliding weights work. Was told the higher the RPMs on the motor the farther the weight expand out to the edge of the pressure plate and add pressure to the fingers of the plate to add holding pressure on the disc. I said at high rpms how does it shift?? He said that there is no different between idle and 6,000 rpms. This is a bunch of CRAP. $7.000.00 dollars later I found that the weights where causing the problem. I removed the weight and could shift at 6,000 rpms without any problems. ERA removes the weights before installing when they sell turn key cars. ERA also redesigned their clutch fork to work better too.
I have run Zoom, Hayes, Schaffer, and the list goes on. If the clutch is setup with the correct air gap of .035"-.055" You should not have any problem with even a stock clutch. A clutch pedal stop is also important to not cause overbending of the pressure plate forks or diapham of the pressure plate. Biggest thing that is missed on is the correct pressure plate holding pressure for the clutch. 2,400-3,200 pressure plates are used. This needs to be matched up to the car or truck amd the application of the car or truck.
Last thing is breakin, first 500 miles for ANY clutch is needed. Alot of guys put a new clutch in and beat the crap out of it and if it slips, it's a bad clutch and not a poor breakin period. Some people call them heat cycles.
I like the soft pedal and feel on the street twin. I know that there is no slipping any more too. 2 10.5" discs against 1 11' or 12", who has more holding surface? Rick L.

[undy]

I can't understand why you guys keep spelling it wrong??? It's CENTERFARCE. That name more accurately describes it's holding capabilities. I've owned 4 of them and everyone was a piece of garbage.

Listen to Brent on this one...

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by undy

Listen to Brent on this one...

Uhh, I dunno... I think Rick is smarter than Brent.