Club Cobra
Page 1 of 2 1 2
Show 20 post(s) from this thread on one page

Club Cobra (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/)
-   FE TALK (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/fe-talk/)
-   -   Type of oil in 427 S/O (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/fe-talk/115406-type-oil-427-s-o.html)

krkucin 05-01-2012 06:57 PM
Type of oil in 427 S/O
 
What are people using for oil in their 427 side oilers? Regular, synthetic or a blend? Thanks!

jwoodard 05-01-2012 07:04 PM
I run Castrol 10W40.
:D:D:D

patrickt 05-01-2012 07:15 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by krkucin (Post 1188452)
What are people using for oil in their 427 side oilers? Regular, synthetic or a blend? Thanks!
Unless you have a solid flat tappet cam, there's not a whole lot of difference, that really matters, so long as you have the right viscosity. There is anecdotal evidence that synthetics leak more in FEs that non-synthetics (some report that switching to a synthetic brings about leaks that didn't exist before). Personally, I use Brad Penn.

elmariachi 05-01-2012 08:11 PM
I have run both Brad Penn 20W-40 and Valvoline VR-1 Racing straight 40W. Seems like the VR-1 stays clean longer. Only dinosaur oil for my dinosaur engine.

RICK LAKE 05-02-2012 04:22 AM
15-40W rotella and oil suppliments
 
Been running 15W-40 rotella diesel oil for years. I have a hydro roller motor. I also run 1 bottle of either EOS oil suppiment or Lucas oil additive. HVHP oil pump with #100 spring. Have a accusump to start motor, no dry starts. Let motor run for 1-2 minutes without any change of throttle until some heat is in the oil and the pressure comes down to under 90 psi off idle. Any good oil will work but remember that they have removed alot of the Zinc and Ph. to help with wear and tear on the internals. Rick L. Ps I don't believe in syntheics for the extra cost in track cars. Also not looking for every extra HP I can find.

JBCOBRA 05-02-2012 11:46 AM
Have any of you guys tried the Joe Gibbs Hot Rod HR1 oil???
Since I am running in a fresh engine with their break in oil, I figured I would try it after 500 miles of their BR1 oil.

patrickt 05-02-2012 11:57 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBCOBRA (Post 1188556)
Have any of you guys tried the Joe Gibbs Hot Rod HR1 oil???
Since I am running in a fresh engine with their break in oil, I figured I would try it after 500 miles of their BR1 oil.
Joe Gibbs is good stuff, and maybe a little pricier than Brad Penn. The only complaint I have with Brad Penn is that it's green. Yeah, yeah, I know it sounds kind of cool, and maybe it is, but small puddles of fresh coolant look just like Brad Penn to me. I had just changed my oil a couple of weeks ago and when I looked under the car a few days later there was a small, maybe three inch wide puddle of what looked exactly like the Brad Penn I had just put in her. So I wiped it up, tried to figure out where it could have come from (filter, "splash," maybe the copper crush washer was all used up...) and dismissed it, figuring if it was anything other than splash that it would reappear. I did "sniff" it on the off chance it was coolant, but detected no odor... and since it was dripping right from the back of the pan, I was sure it was Brad Penn. Well, it wasn't, and I found the source of the coolant leak shortly thereafter. Of course, every leak on an FE trails to the back of the engine and looks like an oil leak (usually like the rear seal)... even coolant leaks. I would prefer it if the Brad Penn was not the color of my coolant.:cool:

JBCOBRA 05-02-2012 12:30 PM
LOL Pat. Green oil. Could get confusing really quickly.
Prior to freshening up this engine I always used VR1. Never had a problem, but their newish packaging is confusing and I believe the zinc levels are way down compared to when I originally built this engine.

elmariachi 05-02-2012 12:35 PM
FYI zinc levels in VR-1 same as always, click here for specs.

RodKnock 05-02-2012 01:14 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBCOBRA (Post 1188556)
Have any of you guys tried the Joe Gibbs Hot Rod HR1 oil???
Since I am running in a fresh engine with their break in oil, I figured I would try it after 500 miles of their BR1 oil.
I use Joe Gibbs Conventional Hot Rod oil. Works for me. No issues.

Stentor 05-02-2012 01:23 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by RodKnock (Post 1188568)
I use Joe Gibbs Conventional Hot Rod oil. Works for me. No issues.
Same here--I've had good luck with Joe Gibbs HR oil.

Bernica 05-02-2012 03:19 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBCOBRA (Post 1188556)
Have any of you guys tried the Joe Gibbs Hot Rod HR1 oil???
Since I am running in a fresh engine with their break in oil, I figured I would try it after 500 miles of their BR1 oil.
I am running Joe Gibbs synthetic XP3. Pricey, plenty of ZDDP. So far, no issues. Pressure seemed more stable and seemed to run a little cooler, but maybe that's just me...

Silversmith 05-02-2012 05:04 PM
I go with what Lee Holman suggested for my FE; 40W! I use Brad Penn. :cool:

mike harter 05-02-2012 05:38 PM
Joe Gibbs 10/30 synthetic hotrod oil for average climate is the best.

FWB 05-02-2012 07:17 PM
Brad Penn onlyhttp://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...racinglogo.gif

danc30 05-03-2012 07:27 AM
Keith Craft said to use regular 10w-40. That's what I use. Castrol 10w-40.

I go by what the engine builder suggests......

Stentor 05-03-2012 08:51 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by danc30 (Post 1188647)
Keith Craft said to use regular 10w-40. That's what I use. Castrol 10w-40.

I go by what the engine builder suggests......
Craft has changed his tune on this. He now recommends Joe Gibbs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Keithc8 (Post 1144874)
We have used about every oil possible. We will only warranty our engines if Joe Gibbs is used. If you look at the facts it has more ppm zinc and less ppm detergent than most any other oil. Try to stay away from most all oil that you can buy through a regular parts store. Those oils have to meet the lasted epa standards which have taken most all zinc out and added lots of detergents. As you well know zinc is what bonds the oil to the metal and the high ppm detergents wash the zinc away. This works great for late model stock engines with overhead cams and low spring pressure. Bottom line, make sure there is plenty zinc in the oil to save problems in the future.

krkucin 05-03-2012 10:13 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stentor (Post 1188655)
Craft has changed his tune on this. He now recommends Joe Gibbs.
Regular? Or synthetic?

patrickt 05-03-2012 10:17 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by krkucin (Post 1188664)
Regular? Or synthetic?
I think all of the oils of the Brad Penn/Joe Gibbs type caliber are now touted as being "partially synthetic." I know that's true of Brad Penn, but I don't really know what it means. It's kind of like being "partially pregnant."%/

JBCOBRA 05-03-2012 10:29 AM
My Builder said to go with conventional 15/50 Gibbs.
He is a High Flow oil type of builder. Builds a ton of Roundy Round engines too.


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:22 AM.
Page 1 of 2 1 2
Show 20 post(s) from this thread on one page

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: