Quote:
Originally Posted by fordracing65
Is this a must, (the right stuff) I've heard of it, do all engine builders use it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Parker
It is far superior to RTV.
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I use it occasionally, but not often. The up side is that it seals really well, and will cure to usability in less than an hour. I had to do an overnight gasket change on a race week end, and that worked really well.
Of course, just like anything else in life, there are a couple of down sides. It's very expensive, 2-3 times the cost of a tube of good RTV. It sets fast, so you gotta move. No messing around. Get that manifold on straight and torqued down pretty quick. Because it forms such a strong seal, it can be a bear to take apart and clean up later.
I generally use standard RTV with good results.
One trick for installing the manifold. Because of the rapid cure time, you want to get the manifold set in place correctly the first time. If you have to shift it around much, you displace the gasket and disrupt the sealant. Then you have to buy a new gasket and start over.
There are a couple of tricks that make this job really easy.
- Put a light smear of whatever sealant your using on the gasket around the water ports, front and rear. Just a light smear, and only on the head side. Set the gasket in place exactly where you want it, and press down for minute or so. That will "glue" the gasket in place so it doesn't shift while you install the manifold.
--- I also put a small smear on the other side of the gasket around the water ports. I'm not sure that's really necessary. But it seems to work, and I'v never had a failure.
- Get a couple of bolts (or a piece of All-Thread) the same size as the manifold bolts. Cut the head off the bolts, and cut a screwdriver slot in one end. Screw those into the head holes as guide studs. Then you can drop the manifold over the guide studs and into place correctly the first time. You'll probably have to adjust the manifold a little bit, but usually not more than about 1/16" or so.
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