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FE TALK
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http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/fe-talk/)
| DanEC |
10-10-2012 04:59 PM |
Where to put water temp sensor?
I have a feeling I know the answer to this question but I'll ask anyway. I'm using an original low riser 2x4 intake and now that I'm preparing to install my dash panel I'm looking for a place to screw in the temp gage sensor. The only sizeable ports (one in top of intake and one in water pump) I have my heater hoses plumbed to. There is one boss and small plugged opening directly in front of the carburetor that looks to be in the water passage. I would have to drill this out considerably for the Smiths gage sensor and then vacuum out the cuttings.
Not being a Ford engine guy - is this my only option? I suspect it is. Or is there someplace in the block (428) it can go? I'll have to figure out what size that sensor is and see if I have a tap that big.
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| bobcowan |
10-10-2012 05:26 PM |
Ideally, you want the sensor somewhere near the thermostat; but certainly near the front/top of the engine.
I bet you could find a brass adapter at your local NAPA store.
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| patrickt |
10-10-2012 06:44 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
(Post 1214726)
I have a feeling I know the answer to this question but I'll ask anyway. I'm using an original low riser 2x4 intake and now that I'm preparing to install my dash panel I'm looking for a place to screw in the temp gage sensor. The only sizeable ports (one in top of intake and one in water pump) I have my heater hoses plumbed to. There is one boss and small plugged opening directly in front of the carburetor that looks to be in the water passage. I would have to drill this out considerably for the Smiths gage sensor and then vacuum out the cuttings.
Not being a Ford engine guy - is this my only option? I suspect it is. Or is there someplace in the block (428) it can go? I'll have to figure out what size that sensor is and see if I have a tap that big.
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Do you not have these two holes up front? The top one takes the sensor, the lower one takes the heater hose fitting.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/manifold.jpg |
| DanEC |
10-10-2012 07:28 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
(Post 1214740)
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Patrick - mine is a LR version, but yeah it has two ports like that. However the one on center is only drilled out to about 1/4 inch so I will have to do some heavy duty drilling and tapping for the sensor. I wish I had thought of this before the engiine was assembled. Oh well - where is my drill.
Dan |
| patrickt |
10-10-2012 07:39 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
(Post 1214747)
Patrick - mine is a LR version, but yeah it has two ports like that. However the one on center is only drilled out to about 1/4 inch so I will have to do some heavy duty drilling and tapping for the sensor. I wish I had thought of this before the engiine was assembled. Oh well - where is my drill.
Dan
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I guess you could put a shop vac in to the thermostat opening while you drill -- it might not be too bad. I don't know, maybe some of the machinists around here know some tricks for that.:confused: |
| DanEC |
10-10-2012 08:09 PM |
I've taken a small piece of rubber tube and taped it up to a vacuum hose to vacuum a passage out before. This is manageable - just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing some other option before I break out the drill.
Thanks
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| vector1 |
10-11-2012 04:06 AM |
it probably wouldn't matter which was the heater hose and temp port? use the hole closest to the thermostat opening..
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| tboneheller |
10-11-2012 06:01 AM |
Grease on the drill bit will catch a lot of the shavings. This works good with a tap as well.
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| DanEC |
10-11-2012 06:08 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by tboneheller
(Post 1214798)
Grease on the drill bit will catch a lot of the shavings. This works good with a tap as well.
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I haven't had time to measure the fitting yet - anyone happen to know what size hole and thread count for a tap is needed? Appears to be the same as for the heater hose nipples. I'm wondering if it's a pipe thread tapping also (NPT?). I will probably have to look around in Sears for one of those. |
| kevins2 |
10-11-2012 06:18 AM |
Hi Dan,
I'd suggest speaking with Doug at ERA if you haven't already. He could likely answer all your questions, including the type and size of the thread you'll need.
Regards,
Kevin
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using Patrick's pic as a guide i use the port closest to the distributor. that port will pick up the temp from crossover between the two heads.
and yes the thread is NPT, i think if i remember its 1/4 NPT if you buy a tap be sure its not just a carbon steel tap or you may break it off. make sure the tap package or the seller shows it to be HSS high speed steel.
use tapping fluid for lubrication or liquid soap if none is available. if you have any tube lying around use it as a sleeve for the tap to insure its going in straight...
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| patrickt |
10-11-2012 09:08 AM |
What should govern what port you choose for what is whether or not it will fit along with your fat little fingers. I'm assuming you're going to put a little shut off valve in the manifold -- they're only a couple of bucks from Summit -- but you have to make sure that you can reach your hand in there and that the handle of the valve doesn't hit something (like your front carb, or in my case a Turkey Pan, which is removed for this shot). Here's the shot of mine and you can see why it is why it is:
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...erinlet001.jpg |
OMG no...no...there's dust on Pat's aircleaner.
your slipping,
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| DanEC |
10-11-2012 10:16 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
(Post 1214819)
What should govern what port you choose for what is whether or not it will fit along with your fat little fingers. I'm assuming you're going to put a little shut off valve in the manifold -- they're only a couple of bucks from Summit -- but you have to make sure that you can reach your hand in there and that the handle of the valve doesn't hit something (like your front carb, or in my case a Turkey Pan, which is removed for this shot). Here's the shot of mine and you can see why it is why it is:
http://208.255.159.239/heaterinlet001.jpg
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I will be plumbed the same way as I already have my heater hose nipple/shutoff valve in place and my hoses run.
Patrick - how did ERA run the tubes on your motor for the oil temp sensor and the oil pressure line? Over the top of the engine and down to the oil filter housing and pan - or down at the firewall and along the lower side of the block?
Thanks |
| patrickt |
10-11-2012 10:48 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
(Post 1214826)
Patrick - how did ERA run the tubes on your motor for the oil temp sensor and the oil pressure line? Over the top of the engine and down to the oil filter housing and pan - or down at the firewall and along the lower side of the block?
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The oil temperature sender is located on the driver side rear of the Canton pan. The sending tube goes straight up and through a grommet located below the fuse boxes, There are two grommets there, actually, and the passenger side grommet is for the speedo cable and the driver side grommet is for the oil temperature sender. You can't see it in the second pic, but the arrow is pointing to it. The oil pressure tube runs from the filter housing directly over to the fender and up and under the fender to a hidden grommet along the firewall. You can see it in the pic and the other red arrow is pointing to it.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/lines001.jpg
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/lines002.jpg |
| patrickt |
10-11-2012 11:05 AM |
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| patrickt |
10-11-2012 11:15 AM |
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| patrickt |
10-11-2012 11:42 AM |
This is a good shot because it illustrates three points: A is the entry point of the oil pressure line, through the hidden grommet on the firewall, as viewed from inside the car looking up. B shows the oil pressure line loops that help to avoid vibration leaks, and C shows the loops for the excess capillary tube. Someone around here, maybe it was Chas, tried cutting and splicing the capillary tube instead of looping it. (No, it wasn't Chas :LOL:)
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...oodshot001.jpg |
| DanEC |
10-11-2012 11:52 AM |
OK - thanks for the information. I think you have the SC dash - is your oil pressure gage in the center or over by the steering wheel? I have a steet dash and that seems like a long way around to hit the gage in the center. But, either way I think running them down low along the side of the block will work best.
Thanks again
Ahh - more pictures. Should be self explanatory now.
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| patrickt |
10-11-2012 11:59 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
(Post 1214838)
OK - thanks for the information. I think you have the SC dash - is your oil pressure gage in the center or over by the steering wheel?
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My oil pressure gauge is over to the left of the steering wheel. Even if it was over by the glove box I think I'd run the pressure line the same way as it is now. |
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