Which FE Aluminium Block is best?

[601HP]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

David, BTW, that's a question absolutely no one has asked me about my Shelby block. For the record, I didn't care either when choosing a block for my build.

I inserted my comment because I kinda do like the uniqueness of the side-oiler. And..........I have had a number of folks ask me over the years, because they're "in the know" to some degree, if it was a side-oiler.

For those folks who don't care; side, center, 428, 351, 302, yada yada yada, my comment wasn't focused in your direction!

Truth be told, I actually kinda envy you aluminum block owners, Pond, Genesis and Shelby. Here I am stuck with an original Ford iron block side-oiler. And dang it, I have a sleeve in #2 cylinder!

David

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by 601HP

Truth be told, I actually kinda envy you aluminum block owners, Pond, Genesis and Shelby. Here I am stuck with an original Ford iron block side-oiler. And dang it, I have a sleeve in #2 cylinder!

David

Yep, I got tired quickly of looking for a nice original sideoiler block. Weld here, sleeve there and expensive. And most of all, no patience.

[A98Coupe]

Thanks Guys! Lots of good information. It seems the only choice is between Pond & Shelby and given that the quality of both seems to be comparable, then Pond wins in terms of value for money!
To answer an earlier post, my engine builder is Knight Racing. Lots of experience in building race engines for historic race cars such as GT40s and famous Cobras such as GPG 4C. I'm confident he will do a far superior job to my previous engine builder!

[RodKnock]

Genesis used to make both a iron and aluminum sideoiler FE block. They still may be out there and the iron block was reasonable. IIRC, Barry R. used the Genesis iron block for most, if not, all his own builds.

[Bernica]

Is World still producing Shelby blocks? I believe they were when mine was produced....

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by Bernica

Is World still producing Shelby blocks? I believe they were when mine was produced....

World never produced Shelby anything.

[legenmetals]

Robert Pond's block is so accurate to the original that NHRA allows its use in some stock classes.

[RodKnock]

I should point out that the Shelby block can punched out to 527ci, with the big bore option, which I don't believe the Pond block can do.

But Pond still is the best value, if the pricing differential still remains the same.

[fordracing65]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

I should point out that the Shelby block can punched out to 527ci, with the big bore option, which I don't believe the Pond block can do.

But Pond still is the best value, if the pricing differential still remains the same.

The Pond block can have a maximum bore of 4.310 with a 4.375 crank, this will give you over 500 ci, the Pond block costs $4,550, the Shelby block is $6,185 and the big bore version is $6,725...

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by fordracing65

The Pond block can have a maximum bore of 4.130 with a 4.135 crank, this will give you over 500 ci, the Pond block costs $4,550, the Shelby block is $6,185 and the big bore version is $6,725...

The website states a max 4.310 bore and 4.375 stroke for 511 cubes.

[undy]

Just thinking out loud, as a side note...

I think it's totally rediculous punching out a brand new high dollar block to it's max bore for no other reason to gain a little cubic inch bragging rights.

I had my Pond block finished to it's smallest bore (4.25"). If I bust a ring and score a cylinder there's enough meat to take it to the next size. Again, that's just me.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by undy

Just thinking out loud, as a side note...

I think it's totally rediculous punching out a brand new high dollar block to it's max bore for no other reason to gain a little cubic inch bragging rights.

I had my Pond block finished to it's smallest bore (4.25"). If I bust a ring and score a cylinder there's enough meat to take it to the next size. Again, that's just me.

I do agree with you in principal and that's why I have a 4.25" stroke and bore for 482ci. But I was only pointing out one minor difference between the two blocks.

Having said that, considering that I don't drive my car 10,000 miles per year, I kinda wish I did punch it out to 500+ cubes or even the 527 cube max. Worst case scenario, if something bad happens to the engine, then you just re-sleeve the block. The aluminum blocks already have sleeves.

It's only time and money.

[Bernica]

I have run with 390's, 406's, and 427's since the '60s IMHO, Even the NOS ones you find, once you pay a fortune and find out your have to correct them, don't match up to what you can have now through any of these guys, be it Pond, Shelby, etc...
It's nice to have the iron block with the numbers and all that, and if that is what is important to you, then go for it. It's all a matter of choice......

[undy]

198... phhttt. My DD does 207

[big-boss]

What about the Genesis blocks?

[blykins]

They are no longer making blocks...

[undy]

Originally Posted by blykins

They are no longer making blocks...

What happened?

[Skuzzy]

Originally Posted by blykins

They are no longer making blocks...

Their WEB site still shows both the aluminum and cast iron blocks for sale. Of course, it would not be the first time a WEB site lied.

I like the Genesis block for a mild street motor. Lighter than the Pond block, not as stout either, but should be solid enough for an under 500HP build.

I have been bouncing between small block, FE, and 385 for my car. Small block would be a no-brainer for solid performance and reliability.

I like the FE for how compact it is and the bigger bore, but detest the almost always seeping between the intake, heads, and valve covers. It also the most expensive solution.

The 385 is a cheaper solution than the FE, but it is a monster. Not sure what kind of compromises I would have to make to stuff one in my car.

[B.M.B.C]

Do Pond have a cast iron block ?