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Oil change w/oil cooler
When changing oil how are you draining the oil in the cooler?
Jon |
your not.....just like the oil suspended in the blocks galleys
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Oil
So how many qt's of oil do you subtract?
Jon |
I have read 1 quart for the cooler. I am planning to do mine soon. I'm going to put in the pan and filter capacity, run it for a minute and check it again. And add as necessary. I have a road race pan so I'm not too worries about starving the engine.
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Add as many qt's as the capacity of your oil pan (pan capacity vs system capacity) and fill the filter before you put it on and you will be good.
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Don't fill the filter before you install it, if it is horizontal. That's messy.
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I had an 8 quart road racing pan and with the hoses to the remote filter and the oil cooler, if everything was empty it took about 9 1/2 quarts to fill it. But once I got it filled I never cleaned out the oil cooler or lines to it after that and it took about 8 1/2 quarts. Depending on how long your hoses are can change the amount for the first fill somewhat. After that it is just the pan and oil filter for most of us.
Ron |
Find out what the "pan" capacity is. If I remember correctly the Canton pans are listed for the capacity of the "system" which presupposes a quart for the cooler. In that case the pan capacity is 7 quarts.
After the oil has been drained refill it to the "capacity" of the pan and note where the oil level is on the dipstick. Start the car and run it for a minute or so to get the oil circulated. Shut the engine off and give it about an hour to make sure everything has drained back into the pan and check the dipstick again. Add enough oil to bring the dipstick level back to where it was when first checked. DonC |
Once the filter is off my remote housing, a little low pressure air directed and sealed into the center fitting empties the remote cooler on my Superformance. Running a 428FE with the 8qt Canton pan it takes about 8 1/4 Qts. To check the accuracy of your dipstick, fill to seven Qts., fill your filter and install and give it some time for the oil to drain down, check the stick and THIS is the Full Level. Add the balance of the oil left over from the filter (if you drained the cooler), start the car check for leaks. Let it drain for a while and recheck the level. Add additional oil to bring it back to that marked 7qt. level and you are properly filled. Rick
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Or not.
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Idiotic
No,, that'd would be dumber than a bag of hammers. Not to mention a complete waste of time.
If your serious about your engine, you're changing your oil long before it get's dirty, therefore, and oil in the cooler and lines, will soon blend with the new oil, and I challange anyone to say they could tell there was "old" oil in the system. I ran an Aviad pan, blending 11 qts with possibly 2 qts that is old, results in 13 qts. of beautiful oil protection. |
... and since I pulled the distributor I'll have to set the timing. That is if I don't pull the oil shaft up and out of the pump, then drop it back down cattywampus so it wedges stuck, because that stupid little clip was left off....:CRY:
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Just take it to jiffy-lube and let their highly trained mechanic do the job.
What damage could a stripped drain plug, double gasketed oil filter and five quarts of 10/30 oil do? |
Don't worry about the cooler and lines.
If you have a trap door pan let it drain and go do something else for a while. If you rush the oil change you won't believe how much oil will still be in the pan especially if it is not hot. |
I wouldn't worry about the cooler and lines.
If you have a trap door pan, let it drain and go do something else for a while. If you rush the oil change you won't believe how much oil will still be in the pan especially if it is not hot. |
Goodness, if you read his question as to how much oil to subtract, I just gave him a way to find out for his particular application. I did NOT say that voiding the cooler and lines is what to do at each oil change. Once done he will know his SYSTEM capacity and have a properly calibrated dipstick. Rick
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