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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2014, 05:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redmt View Post
x 3 on Brent.
x4 on Brent.

He's the only engine builder around these parts that takes time to repeatedly help customers and non-customers alike. All the rest just do a once-in-a-while drop 'n run post. That speaks volumes, at least to me.
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Old 01-30-2014, 05:55 AM
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If it were me, I would go with Brent too. Because I know at my skill level I would need a couple of tips along the way and Brent will take the time to really see what I am doing and help. If I ran in to a problem, because I couldn't figure out how to do something, or I wasn't sure I did it right, I know I could send him pics or even post a video, and he would take the time to study it and then tell me what I was doing right, wrong, or in between.
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Old 01-30-2014, 07:42 AM
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Default Survival Motorsports

Since you mentioned going the 390/445 route, I get the feeling you are familiar with what Barry Rabotnick has to offer at Survival Motorsports, and that his book is one of the ones you have ordered. Just haven’t seen him mentioned specifically so far, so I thought I would throw his name and what he has to offer into the mix just in case. In addition to stroker kits, he is developing his own heads for the FE.

You may already be doing this as well, but being in NC, right there in the heart of NASCAR country, I can’t help but think there are some local FE builders around who would be a wealth of knowledge. Although probably considered “old timers” now, they probably would be more than willing to pass their FE knowledge along to someone still interested in doing most of their own work. Ask around at local car shows, too. At a very small car show, I ran across someone with two Mercury Comet Cyclones there and another one that is a work in progress who highly recommended the builder of his 390s, and told me who to stay away from. As meticulous as this fellow was with his Cyclones (down to custom making the sticker on the AC compressor on one of them), I think if he had had any reservations about the builder, he would have let me know.

Here is a link to an article in Car Craft from a few years back…just something to gnaw on while you wait for the books to come in.
Ford 390 FE - Car Craft Magazine
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:13 AM
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Thanks all... Yes, I did send Barry a email and told him what I wanted to do last week. No reply yet. I do have that book ordered plus 2 others.
Yea, in my small amount of research here in NC... I am finding the "oldtimers" but it seems they have not keep up with the technology( at least some of them) and all the good stuff that is being made in todays shops. 15 years ago I would have never attempted this, but today... I don't see where it is any difference than a 302. Maybe just costing a little more.
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:49 AM
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I appreciate all the words here.

Race, I'll be more than happy to help you if you're wanting to start an engine project.

The very first engine I built was a 425 cubic inch Windsor. Never started with a small block Chevy, or a 302, or rebuilding a stocker....jumped straight into grinding cylinder skirts so rods would clear, drilling/tapping for lifter spiders, assembled bare aluminum heads, etc, etc. I was hooked. If this old bald-headed dummy can do it, anyone else can.

I will say a few words of warning...on the scale of "difficulty", I would put the FE pretty far up on the list. There are several nuances and pitfalls that can bite you in the hindend, but if you're aware of those and take your time, it can be done. Just accept the fact that nothing will fit ahead of time and you'll be just fine.

A couple of quickie FE points that separate them from the rest of the Ford engine world:

*The block is skirted, which means that the rear main seal has multiple pieces. Instead of just two seal halves, you have two seal halves, plus two side seals.

*The intake manifold makes up a portion of the cylinder head. The valve cover straddles them both. The pushrods go through the intake, instead of the head. Since there are multiple mating flanges here, you have multiple angles to check and modify to get a correctly sealed top end. The distributor also goes through the intake manifold, which means there's yet one more thing to check before bolting it on.

*FE cylinder head valve layouts are symmetrical about the vertical axis. This causes the valve reliefs in some pistons to be in different locations. A lot of the aftermarket pistons have symmetrical valve reliefs so it doesn't matter, but some of them are orientation-specific.

*The rear cam cup plug goes in backwards. This gets a lot of people and they end up driving them in the way that they're used to seeing on other engines and end up making a lathe out of the camshaft.



Sounds like a fun project.
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:42 AM
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Many thanks Brent. Responses like yours is what people find so appealing and sends folks in your direction.
Yes, I have been reading and reading. Let me get my books in the mail and do some more reading just to make sure I ain't chicken $hit. Then we will dive into this thing.

I am in hopes I can get a ever whom I deal with to do all the machining for me. I just want to have to bolt together, do all the measuring etc. I am a machinist, but I don't have a machine shop. Besides... all the machine crap I do, you can't hardly see it.
Now, if you guys need any micro holes, I am the one to see. I have made some injector tips for a race shop or two that are crazy...
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Old 01-30-2014, 11:53 AM
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I'm certainly no expert but I'm glad that Brent came out and said that the FE isn't the easist 'beginner', that much I do know.

I like what your thinking, RACERAL. Keep us updated.
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