Air flow
 

Rick,

Did you flow the heads yourself or are they KC numbers?

PS Torque is nice, but torque at high rpm is nicer.

Set if Edelbrocks
 

Cobra #3170 Sir have a older guy here in PA that has an OLD flow machine but seams to work great on the numbers.
My heads have had the following done
Spark plug hole moved .120" welded and helicoiled
Bottom of intake ports are filled
Top of intake ports are welded for more material and reshaped
The port job was CNCed to start.
The heads came with titanium valves but the wrong seats, not berillium ones
The jury is still out on titanium valves. Running a lighter valve spring will slow down the valve seat pounding.
Tubes in all the pushrod holes and can see them in the ports.
T&D shaft mounted setup. all machine work is done.
The last option is going to 5/16" or 8mm valves.
The heads are basicly done except for last line.
he next thing is crankshaft and connecting rods. Titanium is out. If I wanted to get crazy, honda 1.88 rods would be the way instead of 2.10 sbc rods.
Brent has is right with clearance in a shelby block. This doesn't mean I have giving up either on BME or GPR.
The last thing is looking into a piston sprayer setup like deisels.
Dry sump setup will be the oiling system with 100 psi spring. Got 15 years out of 2 rotating assemblies and no failures, the bearings are not damaged from high pressure flow. Stay with what works.
ERA sells an update for their rearend assemblies that better controls rearend from side movement and for and aft. Car needs a make over and paint repair, will add this in the winter.

Looking forward to seeing more autocross from you. Hope you had a nice Fathers day and breakfast in bed. :rolleyes:;):D:LOL::LOL::LOL: Rick

Rick, depending on the crank and how it's made, you could go to a Honda journal or even a small journal SBC rod (2.000"). Those two would require completely custom rods though, and then you get into some good money.

I have part numbers for custom 5/16" Ferrea valves, in Ford FE overall length and stem length, .330" tip, 2.250"/1.750" if you need them.

I think we are on different sides of the sandbox on oil pressure too.... :D

Will let you know
 

Bylkins Brent are these valves 1 piece or welded? Am interested.

As far as sand box, it's was an old John deere mud tractor tire. The sand is all gone and flowers are growing.:rolleyes:;):LOL:

As for the oil pressure thing, I listen to the OLD masters from the 60's who ran these motors at 8,000 rpms and didnot break them. Sorry I'm old school and run every motor in my stable with HVHP oil pumps and have oil modes done for return and getting to the right spots. 15 years and still running the same HVHP melling pump with 100 psi spring and no wear on distributor or billet shaft. also have a small trick for this too. About .010" hole. Going to work, later. Rick

They are one piece....about $650 worth of valves, not Ebay junk.

As for the oil pressure, I'll say this....1965 was almost 50 years ago. ;) A lot of stuff has changed, but as you say, if it works, it works. I run blueprinted pumps from Precision Oil pumps, and even on my road race stuff, I'm at about 75-80 psi tops. It works. If you run a lot of volume and pressure, you will rob a few ponies, plus it's easy to pick up a few degrees oil temp that way as well.

I do a few oil mods too, but I've found most of the distributor gear wear is from gears that were installed incorrectly on the shaft. Biggest mistake I see guys make is just lining the holes back up when they put a bronze or steel gear on the distributor. I've even seen them off from MSD/Mallory.

Happy Monday to you Rick...

On my second bag of popcorn.

:D

Why do you need the popcorn? If the popcorn is because of the subject matter, then I agree...I find myself standing and staring at the goodies myself. If it's because of the discussion between rick and me, then popcorn is not needed. Rick is a buddy and customer of mine and even though we disagree on a select few topics, I have a good respect for him.

Parts
 

I have piston sprayers and am happy with the results, my dry sump pressure never goes over 80 PSI no issues, at 2500 it is around 25 PSI hot IE red warning light comes on. So if I read you right those are your flow numbers, is your exhaust over 270? Edelbrock and not Blue Thunder heads, better numbers than I have ever seen from Edelbrock, nice going.

Ah, the smell of new parts.

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps822ad63e.jpg

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...psc28d9923.jpg

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps1ab9f21c.jpg

Nice rods, if you will

That's money you're smelling.................

Hey! What about my engine build?

You haven't been following your own engine build thread? This guy should be envious...you're in the "wrench turning" stage. He's in the "parts trickling in" stage. :)

Exhaust is 265 cfm
 

Cobra 3170 The exhaust was 265 cfm give ot take a couple of cfm's. This was with 11/16 valve stems and only a 3 angle job on the seat and valve face.

Like a few guys here who race 98% of the time in auto cross and a couple of road race tracks, I am going with a dry sump setup. Getting the sprayers to hit the correct spot will be the question. Main concern is amount of oil and loss of pressure with 8 sprays working.

I don't think that some guys understand that the 100# spring is for MAX pressure to the motor on cold starts and starts bleeding off anything above this number. On cold starts my oil pressure guage is 125-128 psi. I let the motor warm up without any throttle input. Takes about 2 minutes for pressure to be in the 85 psi range and drops to 75 after a total hot soak of the motor. Cool down with large fan and back to the 100+ numbers. I do have a oiler that is .010" in the oil gallery plug location behind the distributor that sprays at the 2 gears between camshaft and distributor gear. My end play for the camshaft is .003-.004". Hot I have no measurment. There is no movement and the thrust plate and torrington bearing are the original with 15 years on them also. Not turning higher rpms does extend life of motor and parts. Buying top parts and knowing their limits also helps.

Your magic motor will have about 150 hp more than mine but about only 100ft of torque in the mid range. ( my best friend ) You will be quicker but mine will live longer,:rolleyes:;):D. Rick L student of the cobra motors. Ps your car is worth $,$$$,$$$.**. My car is 10 times less the value. We both are having fun. The next thing is getting the suspension to work as well as your car in handling. Diet and losing 50 pounds will not hurt either

Suspension
 

I should have some good info for you soon, I am experimenting with front roll centers this weekend from 1" to 3" above ground. The handling keeps improving, I only wish I had put this set up in for the 50th anniversary at Laguna. Just bought a new Tilton starter and boy does it have torque, you could drive it in the trailer with the starter!

Suspension
 

I should have some good info for you soon, I am experimenting with front roll centers this weekend from 1" to 3" above ground. The handling keeps improving, I only wish I had put this set up in for the 50th anniversary at Laguna. Just bought a new Tilton starter and boy does it have torque, you could drive it in the trailer with the starter!

Suspension
 

I should have some good info for you soon, I am experimenting with front roll centers this weekend from 1" to 3" above ground. The handling keeps improving, I only wish I had put this set up in for the 50th anniversary at Laguna. Just bought a new Tilton starter and boy does it have torque, you could drive it in the trailer with the starter!

New bumpstick came in....

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps921e827d.jpg

Good grief, Brent. My cam is 248/252, .633 lift and I have little vacuum and a VERY lopey idle. That cam redefines radical street cam, IMO.

phil

8000 rpm
 

You men drag race engines, NASCAR certainly never ran that high.