Building a side oiler and need HELP

[Truetriplex]

I recently purchased a 66 427 side oiler that was involved in a car fire. The motor was fresh and running very well until a gas leak hit the exhaust and destroyed the car. I plan to go through the motor and put it back in a close to original, as in 65-66 AC Cobra style. I don’t want to have the huge MSD red top distributor or massive bright color plug wiring. I will use the AL6 box, but will hide it somewhere on the car. I really want it to look near correct and would like your advice as to what components to use.
Items I need to replace;
Harmonic balancer
Carburetor
Distributor
Fuel pump
Alternator
Crank and water pump pulleys
Any suggestions will be seriously and greatly appreciated

[RACERAL]

I have a what looks like a new harmonic balancer I will sale you for a reasonable price. It was mounted to my 390/445 stroker... It has a Scat crank, I think it will work.

[Karl Bebout]

I just saw an ad on the PHX craigslist for a side oiler, complete, for $10K, which, I guess, ain't bad, for a Ford engine. Looked like the guy had some extra parts so you might want to do a little exploration and AX him. Maybe be something you can't live without.

[blykins]

Originally Posted by Truetriplex

I recently purchased a 66 427 side oiler that was involved in a car fire. The motor was fresh and running very well until a gas leak hit the exhaust and destroyed the car. I plan to go through the motor and put it back in a close to original, as in 65-66 AC Cobra style. I don’t want to have the huge MSD red top distributor or massive bright color plug wiring. I will use the AL6 box, but will hide it somewhere on the car. I really want it to look near correct and would like your advice as to what components to use.
Items I need to replace;
Harmonic balancer
Carburetor
Distributor
Fuel pump
Alternator
Crank and water pump pulleys
Any suggestions will be seriously and greatly appreciated

*Pioneer or Powerbond black harmonic balancer.
*Holley 750 DP carb (new or rebuilt)
*Rebuilt Duraspark distributor OR MSD distributor with black cap
*Carter mechanical fuel pump
*Powermaster 100A 1-wire alternator
*March black pulley set

Easy.

[DanEC]

It kind of depends how serious you are in original. Original would mean no ARP manifold or head bolts, cast iron water pump, stamped - steel pulleys, original (no vacuum advance) Ford distributor or Duraspark unit, standard powermaster starter and alternator, restoration carburetor. Pretty much what I did on my 428 motor except I had ARP bolts used. The stuff is out there - some of it is a little rare and pricey.

I figure a few concessions to originality don't take away from the illusion - even original cars of this sort often have some parts upgraded over time.

[1795]

When you get around to hiding the 6AL box, do not hide it in the glove box. It may overheat, the under side of the glove box is a good area and the 6AL is not easily visible.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by 1795

When you get around to hiding the 6AL box, do not hide it in the glove box. It may overheat, the under side of the glove box is a good area and the 6AL is not easily visible.

Did yours overheat? Did you read this somewhere?
Mine hasn't overheated in there in 2 1/2 decades...
The muscle car guys bolt them to the fenderwell above the headers and to the firewall.

[1795]

Mine did have a problem and when I received the replacement it specifically said on the instructions not to install it in the glove box. I do not imagine that MSD would have stated that unless there have been problems.

[mickmate]

I would use an old Ford distributor with Pertronix internals for a vintage look.
Holley vac sec 4150 series with LeMans float bowls on the ends.
Ally water pump is fine, paint it. If you want a cast iron water pump I have two here available for free if the new owner covers shipping.
Ford pulleys are readily available as new or good used.
I would use an Autolite alternator and a voltage regulator.

[Truetriplex]

Originally Posted by mickmate

I would use an old Ford distributor with Pertronix internals for a vintage look.
Holley vac sec 4150 series with LeMans float bowls on the ends.
Ally water pump is fine, paint it. If you want a cast iron water pump I have two here available for free if the new owner covers shipping.
Ford pulleys are readily available as new or good used.
I would use an Autolite alternator and a voltage regulator.

With this distributor would you go to a MSD AL6 box, and what coil would you suggest?

[trularin]

You might want to consider the IR insertion module for the distributor. Uses the 1965-66 dist, but uses a IR breaker on the inside - completely hidden.

Another would be to get the round super coil and paint it black. Use the original 1965-66 coil mount.

Wires can be 8.8 to 10s, just purchse the color as black ( blue if you like the color ).

Just my $.02

[trularin]

BTW, the alternator for the period was the three wire unit. I think I still have wiring diagram in my gallery.

If it helps.

[MOTORHEAD]

MSD installation instructions say "do not mount ign box in engine compartment" yet most are mounted there. They also say "do not mount coil to cyl head" yet most are.
Conclusion: Hot rodders can't read !

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by Truetriplex

With this distributor would you go to a MSD AL6 box, and what coil would you suggest?

You would need to use a coil recommended by Petronixs. A heavy duty, epoxy filled one would be best. I'm not sure of any need to even use a MSD AL6 box with a Petronixs points replacment module (?). Probably better off without one.

For a somewhat closer to original look, a Mallory distributor uses a standard size cap (not sure if black is available) and regular wire boots. It looks closer to an original than a MSD.

And paint the motor black. Amazing how some slightly different details, brackets and bolts sort of fade into obscurity against all of that black paint.

[Silversmith]

I use the original 65 Fomoco distributor with the pertronix guts just like mickmate suggest. A msd 6AL box & a hotter msd coil that looks standard. No problems here and the 6AL box is in the engine bay and the coil is mounted on the block. Still no problems. No I didn't read the coil & box out a the engine bay story.

[BAsque1]

Originally Posted by MOTORHEAD

MSD installation instructions say "do not mount ign box in engine compartment" yet most are mounted there. They also say "do not mount coil to cyl head" yet most are.
Conclusion: Hot rodders can't read !

I have mine in the engine bay away from the engine or heat source without a hitch. here is direct copy from the instruction sheet FYI

MOUNTING

The MSD can be mounted in most positions, except directly upside down (if upside down, moisture or water cannot escape). It can be mounted in the engine compartment as long as it is away from direct engine heat sources. It is not recommended to mount the unit in an enclosed area such as the glovebox. when you find a suitable location to mount the unit, make sure the wires of the ignition reach their connections. Hold the Ignition in place and mark the location of the mounting holes.
•If you have a 6A Ignition, use an 1/8" drill bit to drill the holes. Use the supplied self tapping screws to mount the box.
•If you have a 6AL, 6T, 6BTM, 6-Offroad or "N" Series, use a 3/16" drill bit and drill the holes for the supplied vibration mounts. Install the vibration mounts, then mount the Ignition.

I just recently installed the MSD cap and rotor vs generic and the wires as well. The coil should be mounted in the vertical position.
In the interest of originality I am not sure if MSD has a the black distributor cap.
The picture has not been updated with the new cap .

[Truetriplex]

I would like to attach the MSD box to back side of the instrument panel (there is no glove box and I would use this area). I am still debating using a Pertronix distributor over the conversion of the original dual points. What are your thoughts

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by Truetriplex

I would like to attach the MSD box to back side of the instrument panel (there is no glove box and I would use this area). I am still debating using a Pertronix distributor over the conversion of the original dual points. What are your thoughts

I think you eventually have to decide this for yourself. I'm running a 427 dual point distributor - stock. I did so because I'm more mechanically minded than I am electrically mined. I like to take things apart and study the mechanical bit and pieces and most times if something isn't working I can figure out why. Electronic stuff gives me no satisfaction - those resistors, diodes, chips, etc, just sit there and do nothing obvious and provide little hint of what is wrong. Yes, the test lights and multi-meters can come out and after awhile maybe the answer will result - but I'm not always so lucky. And these electronic ignition pieces do fail with some regularity. Many people with Pertronix even carry a back up set of points and condensor in case the unit fails on the road.

But if you haven't worked with points much or think they are Fred Flintstone relics and are more comfortable with electronics then that's something to be said for the Petronix unit. It would be nice to have the rev limiter on the III Petronixs unit.

You need to decide what you are comfortable with.

[Dwight]

the reason you want to mount a oil filled coil vertical is the air bubble inside of the coil. Most if not all of the oil filled coil have a air bubble. Probably each is a different size. I don't think they try to control the size of the air bubble when they manufacture the coil. But I don't know.
Went you lay the coil on it's side the air bubble exposes the wire coils. It may or may not burn the coil wire into. Some fail within a 100 miles others last for ever.
I don't take a chance so I mount all oil filled coils vertical.

Just my experience
Dwight