FE Engine Oil
 

I have been running a 5W-40 Rotella Synthetic Diesel Oil in my FE. The prior owner ran it and it seems to work fine. However, I am curious as to what others are running. I have a 468 Shelby Block. Oil pressure stays up and runs high most of the time with the exception when it gets really hot out and then pressure drops a little. I think the prior owner ran the above oil due to a warmer climate in Va. and since the car has been in Ohio it takes a little time to warm up.

Phil

Phil - it could depend on the type of cam and lifters you are running. Also, if you know the builder the safest bet may be to speak with them. Depending on how they normally set up clearances and oil restrictors and the type of pump they install they could have some strong preferences.

On my Keith Craft FE, which is a mild to moderate build, they recommended Joe Gibbs non-synthetic 15W-50 (maybe it's 20W-50, can't recall).

Gibbs is a good product as well as others, you can do a search.
The LIGHTEST oil that works in your engine. Like Dan said clearances are a big factor.
I would like to know why KC recommends 50w oil.
If your engine has good pressure with a lighter oil I would start there.
I have heard hydraulic lifters perform better at high rpm's with a heavier oil (stability) but this may not be your environment.
I've tried 30/40/50. My temps [oil and coolant] were cooler with 30 and pressure was good, so that is what I use.
Try out a few

My engine builder recommended Driven (formerly Joe Gibbs Racing) conventional 10w-30. Oil pressure is just fine. I use their H-2 formula, which supposedly has an additive that helps oil cling to metal longer for engines that sit up over long periods. That may or may not be a gimmick.

Valvoline VR-1 conventional 10-30, or Brad Penn conventional. Solid rollers.

My engine runs best on 20-50 petroleum oil. I have a moderate to more aggressive build and solid lifters. The synthetic stuff just did not perform well in this engine. I use the Valvoline racing oil and am pretty satisfied with it. Oil pressure is solid. On a more aggressive build the rings can be a little undersized to decrease friction andincrease horsepower, which then increase the amount of oil that is left on the cylinder walls to be burned. A thinner oil tends to leave even more oil for burning.

I have heard that synthetic oils are not made to be burned and that this can cause problems in an engine. Has anyone else heard this? Cannot recall who told me that.

It depends on clearance and driving
 

Large Arbor Phil I run 15-40 rolleta and 1 quart of lucas oil suppliment. I run high oil pressures because of 95% racing. I also run high oil pressure in my motor. I also have a Shelby block motor at 484 cubes. Alot of other guys run lighter oils. it depends on the clearances in the bottom end. I live at 35-38 psi at idle hot, about 800 rpms and 75-85 psi at 2,500 rpm and up. My clearances on the bottom end are about .002" My setup is hard on the oil pump shaft and the distributor gear. I have other modes to help get the oil to the right places and control camshaft walking. IMO as long as you have a min of 30 psi at idle your moto should be just fine. Most guys are running about 55-60 psi hot. This is fine for a street motor with oil modes done to control oil to the rocker arms. I like a .080" oriface to keep plenty of oil in the heads to cool the valve springs and lube the rockers. I have an Erson setup. I have seen .060" cause blueing of the adjusters on ersons. This was also with a large roller camshaft in the .700" lift range. Less range may be ok with .060", just not my motors.
Bottom note weather the motor is a hydro or solid motor, don't idle it a long time. There is about a 15-20 psi drop in pressure from where the reading is to the farthest part of the motor. this applies to #4 & #8 rods. Perluber like a accusump 2 - 3 quart tank added to the system prevents dry starts. 90% of wear on the bottom end comes from startups and the rotating assembly waiting for the rods and crankshaft to float on the oil film.
I have tested on my fleet of cars and trucks and found that Lucas oil suppliment has a clinging to it and helps pervent dry starts after motors have been sitting of a month or more. You know when you hear the lifters or rockers clicking for the first 5-15 second on startup after not running for a couple of weeks. Side note, if using Lucas need the motor hot and pour in slowly to help it mix with what you have in the motor already.
Everybody has different ideas about the best oil, different weights, ifferent blends. Use what you feel works for you and your motor. If some one tells you that they have a better oil, tell them you will use it as long as if the motor has a problem they will pay for the repair. Last time I checked it was about 17.5K for a shelby motor rebuild. :eek::CRY:%/;) Your fine Rick l.

Ok, I think I will stick with the Rotella. It seems to work thus far, I just did not know if anyone else ran it. Its good to hear I am not alone. (:

Phil

Joe Lapine, Danbury Competition, told me to use Honda 4 stroke oil 10W-40. It has the high zinc levels like Valvoline VR-1 and Joe Gibbs.

Tom Lucas, FE Specialties told me to use Joe Gibbs 15W-50. He specifically said not to use synthetic because it can cause rear main leaks with FE seals.

Call the guy that built your engine if possible.

John

I run Mobil 1 15w 50. It the only Mobil 1 heavily laden with ZDDP. I run synthetic in everything I own and would never return to dino.

Grubby,

Joe Lapine did build mine and he suggested Joe Gibbs. I was curious what others were running.

Phil

I run Cen-Peco 20-50 race oil in my 445, We also run it in some of our circle track engines with good results.

Brad Penn or Valvoline VR1 goes in all of my stuff.

Viscosity depends on the climate and bearing clearances. I also don't use synthetic in my stuff...I'm with Tom, don't need any more reason for an FE to leak.

^^^^^ this !

I use/used in all all small & big blocks. Never any oiling issues. There just isn't much of an argument for not using a quality synthetic in these vintage engines. The friction reducing properties are well known and throughly documented. Simply put, your engine will just last longer.

Z.

I've been using nothing but Rotella T in everything from my garden tiller on up to my diesel truck and 65 fastback as well as my company cars (Toyota) for at least 30 years.......

company car #1:250,000 miles,no problems,traded it in on a model with more options.

company car #2: 462,000 miles,no problems other than at about 300,000 miles it began using a little oil,by 462,000 miles it was using about 1 quart every 3,000 miles,I expected that with that kinda mileage,plan was to keep it to 500,000 miles,but a disagreement with an old F-250 ended that plan when he ran over me and totaled my car.........

company car #3: 225,000 miles, no problems,sold it when the company began supplying us with company cars......

I like Rotella oils..........

david

My take on this advice from Tony at KC is that it was probably targeted towards my particular motor and may not be the same advice they would give for other builds. In my case, I have a stock oil pump, Tony said they set up their clearances a little on the loose side typically, and summer weather was coming on.

Ironically they gave me a case of Joe Gibbs 10W-30 when I picked up the engine and I've run it as much or more so as the 15W-50. Hot, idle pressure in the summer gets down below 20 psi with the 30 weight which is OK, but I like the idea of a bit more. I suspect the heavier oil may be a good idea to keep my hydraulic lifters pumped up too in hot weather.

You mean specifically Valvoline VR1 Racing. Because there is a VR1 synthetic.

I believe there are several arguments. Some were mentioned in this tread already by knowledgeable engine builders.

those arguments are likely based on outdated thinking, not on fact. The heavier synthetics such as Mobil 1 15w-50 & Mobil 1 0w-50 are very well suited for Ford FE engines & the FSB's as well.


If your FE leaks with a synthetic oil, it indicates your seals were holding deposits and need replacement. That's not the fault of the oil. In any case, such seepage usually goes away once the oil has reconditioned the seals, if not, replace the seals, not the better oil.

2 cents,

Z.

No sir, not outdated thinking.

And yes, Bill, regular non-synthetic VR1.