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427 FE, All Aluminium, just delivered, with TKO 600, Quicktime and McLeod clutch kit.
1 Attachment(s)
Hi guys. I'm in the UK and have taken delivery of the above motor this week. Its neutral balanced, so has a uniform, unweighted steel flywheel.
I'm assembling the clutch unit, which is a McLeod 12" 75236 Super Street Pro, 12" (Ford) . My question (there are no instructions) is regarding attaching the pressure plate to the flywheel. It seems it needs 6 x 5/16" bolts, with no dowels. Can anybody confirm this is correct? Also do I need to use threadlock and sprung washers under the bolt heads? Same applies about flywheel bolts (washers, threadlock or not) which are 7/16. Many thanks |
I'd recommend getting ARP flywheel bolts and ARP pressure plate bolts. They come prepackaged with everything you need. Summit or Jegs has them available with the better pricing and shipping.
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I would recommend getting ARP fasteners also. I don't believe washers or lockwashers are used under the flywheel bolts. Some blue (medium strength) threadlocker is a good idea to use on the bolts. It's provides some additional security but doesn't take a heating torch to break them loose later.
I know on Chevrolets a crank dowel is not used on most engines - the crank dowel hole is actually an indexing provision for machining and drilling the crank. Not completely sure about Fords but pretty sure my stroked 428 didn't use a dowel. |
Thanks guys. I was just querying the size. Anyhow picked up some ARP bolts today, which bizarrely has sachet of thread lubricant included???
Anyhow, another question. Found on the clutch kit box, a bush that is the exact size and I think can only be the crank pilot bush. However, the unit is medium magnetic. Everything you read, is that sintered bronze is a much better alternative and that Tremec do not recommend rollers. So if a pilot bush sintered with iron is no good, why are they being made and in my case supplied? Or is it that damaged input shafts are cased mainly by bellhousings that were not dialled in? Yours Confused, Herfordshire, England. |
According to the Mcleod WEB site, the pressure plate bolts should have been included in your package.
http://www.mcleodracing.com/index.ph...pns-30644.html :D:D:D |
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I bought two McLeod pressure plates this summer and didn't receive bolts with either one (and didn't expect to). Not sure about a complete clutch kit however (with disc, TO bearing, etc). If the pilot bushing is magnetic at all you don't want to use it. I know you are overseas so I'm not sure what you have access to. I used a "National HD" pilot bushing which is a Federal Mogul item. You have to specify the "HD" as the standard non-HD one is available for some car lines and is magnetic. I believe RAM and McLeod also sell supposedly brass bushings.
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Couple of things
AC ventura, as far as pilot bushing or bearing, I have used both without failures. I run bearing and grease them the lubriplate grease. Iron bushing I wouldn't use. Bronze bushing wearing out will do no damage to back of crankshaft. Bearing might. Before you put this assembly togeather, put the flywheel on the crankshaft and then the bellhousing and check for out of center. It's easier to do this measurement out side the car than inside. Close to ".001" in 12 oclock,3:00 , 6:00, and 9:00. I used extra long location pins. After having the bell housing centered I weld 2 nut on the bell housing that just clear the pins. This way you have the bellhousing centered on this block. There should be no wearing out of the bushing or bearing and last 100 k miles
Loctite all bolts and nuts except for the intake, water pump bolts, timing cover bolts, head bolts, and oil pan. If you can get air craft nyloc nuts, use them where every possible. Good luck Rick |
Thanks guys.
I certainly intend to dial in the bellhousing. I spoke to engine builder and he says the bush supplied with the Mcleod Clutch kit, though slightly magnetic is perfectly fine. Looks like it bronze anyhow and I guess the iron is to make it more durable. Just clearing some space now to make an engineering table where I can assemble the motor/drivetrain and mock up the mounts based on a dummy chassis I will construct from 4" dia plastic drain pipes. The car is fully assembled, been on the road for 24 years, so mount construction, not as easy as working on a body free chassis. |
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