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So, what are the differences?
I like to build my own engines (and a few for my friends), but I've never attempted an FE, especially a 427 Side oiler. Now, I know from reading on this forum that you basically need to be Einstein to understand them and superhuman to get them to run properly, so that leaves me out....;)
All kidding aside, what really are the differences and difficulties of building a proper 427 FE as opposed to a SBF or 385 engine? What little secrets would one need to know to properly assemble one that won't detonate into a million unrecognizable pieces on ignition? Anyone care to share your secrets or what secret password to access the 427 FE assemblers club? :) Bob |
start with the FE forum. Take your time - welcome to the madness.
332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum |
I am not an engine builder - more of a part & gasket changer guy - but fitting the intake to avoid gasket leaks and center it so the distributor seats properly seems to raise a lot of issues. Fitting and sealing up the rear main seal seems to be challenging. A machine shop that knows FE machining to get the block, heads and intake to all fit properly is a must. And not the least, understanding all the center oiler, sideoiler, low rise, med rise, high rise, tunnel port, terminology and interchange potential is a learning curve. I would venture that if you have built a number of other engines you will be able to manage it. But an FE appears to be a poor choice for a novice engine builder. The expert/professional FE builders are very appreciated for their knowledge.
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Just thinking aloud...
FE's remind me of 1911 pattern pistols. The holy grail for many because of their desirability, beauty and nostalgic rep. Some shoot well from the factory with factory ammo, but to make one run like a champ with modern high performance rounds, they often need to be tweaked and customized by a knowledgeable gunsmith ($$).
Why would anyone spend so much time and money on a 1911 or a 427 side oiler when there are loads of Glocks and 385 series engines that can do every bit as much or more? I guess if one needs to ask, they really just don't get it and probably never will.:) |
Which FE is important to know, because there are some oil design differences. Certain engines require a special cam bearing. Much to know about the oil system improvements that should be done. You should drill a bigger hole somewhere around the oil filter on center oilers.
Much to do about the intake and head to get a proper fit. Depending on cam lift you may need to relieve the push rod holes to prevent contact. A cast iron intake is heavy and makes working with it difficult. Getting all the ports to match to the head, the dizzy in the right spot, and getting surfaces mated is important, to prevent leaks. If the skirt is drilled for main support bolts, that is another area to know. The rear main seal was designed for a rope seal and therefore did not require much precision. It is a real pain to get a modern rear seal to actually seal. Let's see there is some strange thrust bearing thing with the cam, if memory serves. Oh yea the oil pressure relief system was quite unique. I probably got some things wrong and left some stuff out, cause I never actually built one, but I read a couple books on them maybe a decade ago. I suggest you do the same. |
"How To Build Max-Performance Ford FE Engines" by Barry Rabotnick is a good book to read and refer to during your engine build.
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Bad link Chris.
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I'm sort of fond of the old Browing Machine Pistol (< clickable), Buzz. It has a nice over the top kind of operating experience. :). It also reinforces the idea with an aggressor that he picked the wrong target. The magazine makes shoulder holsters a little bit of a challenge, though. Ed |
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Thanks, Bob |
George Anderson is one of the best FE builders around. His shop is in Hastings Nebraska called Gessford Machine. He and his team can answer most of your questions.
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The difficulty in building FE's is something I never understood. Maybe it's because I've been around them since the 60's that they are just another chunk of iron to me. As with all engine builds there are little "tricks" that you perform but they are just what you do. There are certainly things that you look out for and certain things to take into account in the physical difficulty of these engines. I guess the main things to watch for are rear main seal installation, chamfering and aligning some of the oil passages and getting the intake to sit squarely on squarely mounted heads. Setting a 4bbl intake over the fenders on a pick up can be quite challenging but there's even little tricks to that I use. Other than a few design interchange issues, it's all righty tighty, lefty loosey. There's no great mysteries.
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The best way to build an FE is to write a check to a guy who has built at least a couple of hundred FEs before.:cool:
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It would be hard to beat Brent Lykins at Lykins Motorsports. Just tell him what you want, how you want it to perform, and you will get it.
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You could build an FE with no OEM parts - with an aftermarket block, heads, rotating assembly, etc. I don't think that makes it any less an 'FE', though it's clearly not original. This would be analogous to most of the Cobras out there - also built with non-OEM parts and often better in many respects than the originals (except lineage, of course). YMMV |
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