Troubleshooting my FE

[CompFi]

Apologies for the delay here updating this thread.

I have been tending to a series of repairs to my own chassis. Swapping some worn out parts etc. In another thread inquiring about the age of the members here on the forum, MrMustang responded that he is older than his teeth [which is a great line]. So, I am borrowing it and modifying it. As I am now older than my knees…..

As for the important business of updating this thread:

Lots of great feedback above. To include Ed’s insight that try as I might to chase down this problem and its ultimate solution, I will likely require the expertise of a pro to resolve this issue for me. And right you were, Ed. [That pro is Restoration & Performance Motorcars of Vermont Restoration and Performance Motorcars by the way. More on RPM in another thread that I posted in the New England forum]

Turns out I was confusing multiple issues, and chasing my tail in circles as a result.

1. First, there was a vacuum leak from the passenger side of the turkey pan. That much I knew. I tried to address the leak with different gaskets and spacers etc. No joy. At least not completely anyway. Which means that no amount of tuning the carb itself was going to get it right. Turns out, once the turkey pan was secured with the proper studs, then it made a nice tight seal. And the carb tuned per the detailed instructions from Holley. Important lesson: identify and resolve the vacuum leak first. Do not attempt to tune a carb with a vacuum leak. Do not pass GO. Likely an obvious point to most here, but not me
2. Rising heat temps. An old thread on radiator caps and overflow tanks was recently revived here on the forum. I need to revisit that thread so that I get my terminology correct. And so I don’t repeat this mistake. But the cap on my overflow tank was losing pressure. So I was seeing lots of coolant escaping from the overflow hose spilling onto the ground [I don’t currently have a bottle like Patrick’s to capture the expelled coolant]. Important lesson: troubleshoot for the simple problem first. Replacing the cap with one that holds an actual seal is a good place to start. Now, is it the proper single stage / dual stage cap etc? I don’t know that yet. Like I said, I will need to review that other thread to ensure that I am properly identifying the cap and that it is the correct cap for our application.

So, I hear back from the shop that they have dialed in the carb and that the car is once again idling well, running strong etc. SO, I race down there before they close and retrieve the car. And of course, I take it for a long drive thru the country. Absolutely spectacular. Easily, the most smiles per mile of any drive in the past year.

I pull into a buddy’s driveway to take him for an overdue ride. I kill the engine while we chat etc. I get him buckled in, without any snake bites. We are ready to launch.

1. I turn the ignition. Nothing but a single click at the cutoff switch in the passenger wheel well. [or is it the MSD box up behind the dash in the passenger wheel well? From the driver’s seat, I could not discern which….]. But the starter did NOT crank. Nothing.
2. The fans are running, so I keep the key turned and wait until it the fans shut off. I turn the ignition again. Now, the starter cranks but doesn’t turn over. Which could have been my fault. At this point, I might have flooded it.
3. I had a freshly charged marine battery in my garage, so I retrieved that. I added the extra battery via jumper cables. Engine cranked strong and turned right over. But I kept the extra battery connected for the short drive home just in case I was drawing down the installed batteries from a faulty alternator.
4. Uneventful drive home. I confirmed the charge on the installed batteries. So, should I focus my attention on the Street Fire box? And whether it misbehaves at higher temps? Based on feedback from sunman, 767Jockey, Kevin and others, then the Street Fire box is the primary suspect. [I will open a new thread on this issue.]

So, closing out the issues in my original post of this thread:
• Car now idles strong, once again with a slow rolling growl.
• Car runs strong. No lag across the power band.
• No longer running hot. No longer expelling coolant.

Again, thanks to all for your very helpful feedback. This forum is just so valuable.