hydraulic throw-out bearings

[Back in Black]

Had the o-rings blow out twice (centerforce 2 dual friction clutch and wilwood master cylinder, I am not sure that the hydraulic slave was wilwood or centerforce, but I am guessing it was centerforce)

Here's the two big problems, and my solution, if you want a hydraulic clutch.. I can tell you that with the 12 inch McCleod disc we are converting to, (the original centerforce was 10 inches ) and the HEAVY three pronged spring powered pressure plate, nothing but a hydraulic would be realistic to drive in traffic. Even if you're Arnie .. oops, better not start that again

SO:
1) You MUST have a physical travel stop. I am going to paste a recent e-mail response to a CC member here explaining what we are doing to my car. I designed the stop myself from off the shelf components. It has a plate mounted near the master
clutch cylinder, on the front side of the firewall... a hole is drilled thru the center, a nut is in the center, welded on, it's 3 x 3 inches...we powdercoated this item... a piece of 1/2" ss threaded rod will run thru this, an aircraft locknut to restrain it down there... of course it shoots thru the firewall and at the other end we are using a poly body buffer, like the trick hard urethane mounts now becoming popular...the one I am using is from Energy Suspension, it looks like a 2 inch wide black, flattened gumdrop, part number 9.9116G. The pedal arm will stop on this, and it will be fully adjustable. As to travel, I am going to set it
3/4 of an inch (max) past disengagement...

2) DO NOT use the o-ring hydraulic clutch attachment to the slave cylinder!!! I repeat!...NO! use a 90 degree AN fitting and the same ss lines as you had planned. The o-rings WILL blow out and you'll be where I am, now for the 2nd time in 3,000 miles. The first time they blew before the car was even delivered! Use AN fittings, this is
what McCleod advised.. there's plenty of flexibility in the two lines.... it's a "hard" (meaning durable and tough) installation


I will try to post pics in my gallery as we do this work, or here on this thread if I can find it again. As to the measurement thing, McCleod will specifically set you up with the right internal slave if you measure correctly. I have some great pros doing this part, althought they have been cool about letting me use the shop to trick my car out and fix several manufacturer "defects" such as replacing the joke of an oil cooler (the stupic 2 tube type, was hidden down on the frame by west coast in contradiction to my stated wishes, (it was totally inadequate and took quite a beating down there) what I wanted was what I now have, a front mounted 900 cfm blower unit from Perma Cool, 15 wide x 10 high, manual dash switch with fused relay. In addition my radiator had the metal thru rods for fan mounting, do NOT use these! use the cable tie type with sponge buffers
My lower two bolts had fallen out, so it looked normal when sitting, except the tiny bolts were not there...but when I got on it , the fan became a tilt-away model

Time to head over there and finish my part of the work today.