390 i think?
 

i got a reman 390 from autozone this past saturday which was a replacement for my original engine which went bad ( long story).Anyway, this one was some sort of upgrade because it was 700 dollars higher but the manager didn't know what the difference was. i swapped it evenly with the old one so i don't care how much it is. the casting numbers are odd though. it doesn't have a 352 on the rear of the engine like every other one i have seen. it's double roller timing, has a valley pan, and heavy duty looking valve springs. i got my numbers off of it. the heads are D2TEAA
side of the block is D3TE
the rear driver side had a 14 on it
on the front driver side it has 105 backwards and a 16 underneath that.

an older guy i work with said he thinks they sold me a truck engine like a 391. please somebody with access to this info tell me what i have . thanks in advance.

J305

The DT3E breaks down into a 1973 Truck engine with reinforced webs. The only thing I could find in what I have here for the D2TEAA head number says it is a crank for a heavy duty truck. I don'thave the list of links to go to to look up these numbers here but I am sure some of the other guys can post them. If not I will look them up when I get back to my books. Sorry I can't tell you more but what I have here is limited.

Edit:

I just found two links that may help you.

www.classicmustang.com/decoding_part_numbers.htm

http://pliverman.home.mindspring.com.



Ron

This is an 361/391 FT series engine. These are very HD blocks with thick cyl walls. If the stock components are still there it should have a forged steel as well. Cyl bore is 4.05 same as the 390. These engines are getting hard to find as they are well sought after because of there HD nature. The reverse 105 tells what the block is along with the casting number. Take a look at the crank and see if its forged. Let me know what other info your looking for. Nice find. G.

I believe the mirror 105 is on all the later (post '71 or so) blocks instead of the 352. Also the T doesn't mean it's s heavy duty FT style block because the 360/390 bread and butter pick-ups have that type of casting # as well. Finally the 391 (forged) crank as well as all the FT cranks have a bigger snout (as well as some dimensions on the flange) that's incompatible with FE type dampeners. While it can be machined to use in an FE,that's not typical work done by rebuilders.It's my understanding that the later mirror blocks aren't as stout as the earlier ones that have the 352, I think it's because of newer style casting used (similar to the thinwall small blocks)

If it has the "crows feet"or reinforced cranksaddle webs, it's a HD block. Besides the crank snout/ dampner being bigger the distributor shaft bushing is larger and requires a larger diameter distributor shaft. I think there is a bushing you can get to size it down to the FE size. The oil pump drive shaft is also larger. Be carefull as you purchase parts to finish this As Woodz stated there are some major differences between the FE and FT. If there is a date code on the block post it as it will help pinpoint what you've got there! G.

HAH! Perfect Zappa quote for Club Cobra!:LOL:

Reading Casting NumbersReading Casting Numbers
Casting numbers tell when a part was ORIGINALLY designed and what car it was
ORIGINALLY designed for. This does not mean that the part was not used on other
cars. For example, casting number C8OE-9430-D is an exhaust manifold for a 428
CJ Fairlane; however, it was also used on 428 CJ Mustangs.
Example:
The breakdown of casting number C8OE-9430-D is easy using the charts below:
C = Decade of 1960
8 = Year of the decade (8th year of 1960), 1968
O = Fairlane Car line / Manufacture code
E = Engine engineering department
9430 = Basic number for an exhaust manifold
N = Design change
Casting Number Breakdown Charts
Decade of Manufacture:
A = 1940
B = 1950
C = 1960
D = 1970
E = 1980
Year of Decade
The year of the decade is determined by adding a number (0-9) to the letter of
the decade. Example: C6 would be 1966, D0 would be 1970, D1 would be 1971.
Car Line/ Manufacture Codes
A = Galaxie
D = Falcon (60-69)
F = Outside USA, Trans Am racing
G = Comet / Montego
J = Industrial
M = Mercury
O = Fairlane / Torino
P = Autolite / Motorcraft
R = Rotunda
S = Thunderbird
T = Truck
V = Lincoln (61 - current)
Z = Mustang
Engineering Departments
A = Chassis
B = Body
E = Engine
F = Engine accessories
J = Autolite (67-72)
P = Automatic transmission
R = Manual transmission
W = Axle
X = Muscle parts program
Y = Lincoln / Mercury service parts
Z = Ford service parts
Basic Number
These identify the part, such as 6090 being a cylinder head or 9430 being an
exhaust manifold.
Design Change
A Basic part is made to fit many applications. Example:
DOZZ-7528-C is a clutch bar for a 390/428
DOZZ-7528-D is a clutch bar for a 351 W
DOZZ-7529-E is a clutch bar for a 302 Boss
Reading Casting Dates
Casting dates:
Casting dates show the exact day, month and year a certain part was made or
cast. The typical casting date looks like "6M08".
Breaking down a casting date:
6 = The year of the decade. "6" for 1976.
M = The letter of the month. (December)
08 = The day of the month. (8th)
First year month codes:
ABCDEFGHIJKLM
JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugN/ASepOctNovDec

Second year month codes:
NOPQRSTUVWXYZ
JanN/AFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

How do casting numbers appear?
Most casting numbers are stamped into the part itself, other have the number
molded on the part. Some casting numbers can be ink stamped while others are
printed on paper, which is then wraped around the part.
FE Casting Numbers
Blocks (C1AE8015C)
390 cid
C1AE-CC1AE-GC1AE-VC2AE-BC
C2AE-BEC2AE-BRC2AE-BSC2SE
C3SE-AC3AE-KYC3ME-BC3AE-AY
C4AE-DC4AE-FC5AE-AC5AE-B
C6MEC6ME-AC8AE-AC8AE-C
C8AE-ED3TE-1D3TE-ACD3TE-HA
D4TE-ACD7TE-BA

406 cid
C2AE-JC2AE-KC2AE-VC2AE-BD
C3AE-DC3AE-V

427 cid
C3AE-MC3AE-ABC3AE-ZC4AE
C4AE-AC5AE-AC5AE-EC5AE-D
C5AE-HC6AE-BC5JE-DC6JE-B
C6AE-CC6AE-DC7AE-AC7JE-A
C8AE-AC8AE-BC8AE-H

428 cid
C6AE-AC6AE-BC6AE-FC6ME
C6ME-AC7MEC7ME-AC8ME

Crankshafts
390 cid [3.78" stroke]
2UC3AE-DC4TE-6303-B
3UC3AE-EC4TZ-A
C1AEC3AE-UC4TZ-B
C1AE-AC3AZC6AE-A
C2AE-BC4AE-BC6TE-6303-C
C2AE-DC4AE-CC6TE-6303-E
C3AEC4AE-DD2TE-6303EA
C3AE-6303-EC4AE-A
C3AE-BC4AZ-A
C3AE-CC4AZ-J

406 cid [3.78" stroke]
2UC3AE-BC4AE-C
3UC3AE-CC4AE-D
C1AEC3AE-DC4AE-A
C1AE-AC3AE-EC4AZ-A
C2AE-BC3AE-UC4AZ-J
C2AE-DC3AZC4AZ-J
C3AEC4AE-BC4TZ-A
C3AE-6303-E C4TZ-B

410 cid [3.98" stroke]
1VAC8ME-AC9ZE-CIU
C6MEC9ZE-BC9ZE-DIUB

427 cid [3.78" stroke]
2UC3AE-BC4AE-C
3UC3AE-CC4AE-D
C1AEC3AE-DC4AE-A
C1AE-AC3AE-EC4AZ-A
C2AE-BC3AE-UC4AZ-J
C2AE-DC3AZC4AZ-J
C3AEC4AE-BC4TZ-A
C3AE-6303-E C4TZ-B

428 cid [3.98" stroke]
1VAC8ME-AC9ZE-CIUC2VE
C6MEC9ZE-BC9ZE-DIUBC6ME

my harmonic balancer fit on just like on the original engine, though the snout does look freshly machined. Also, is this gonna be higher compression or larger valves maybe?? just hopefull i guess. thanks guys for all the help, i'm gonna get the numbers off the crank and rods tonight to make sure it's a 391 and not a 361. i'll keep you posted.

Viking,

Do you have a link to where you got all of that information? I see that you are near Branson, Mo. I was born just South of there across the state line in a small town called Omaha, Ark. Left when I was small and haven't been back in that area in 50 years. I was back there for about a month my senior year of high school and actually graduated there. But I get class reunion letters from four high schools. There, two out here and one in New York State. My Father worked construction as a foreman for M.& K. and we travled a lot.

Ron **) :JEKYLHYDE

Ron, I got that info off this board about a year ago, pass it on when ever I can..........moved to Baxter MO 4 years ago, lake front down on table rock, great place :)

Viking,

My Father was the swing shift foreman on Table Rock Dam. My uncle was a vice president of M.&K. Construction back then. I remember them taking me when I was a little kid and letting me fish at the bottom of the spillway. I wouldn't know my way around back there now from what people coming out here tell me.

Ron :)

i couldn't find any numbers on the crank and i don't know how to tell if it was forged. i did get numbers off the rods though C6AE-C . i'm pretty sure those are the short rods can somebody tell me if i am correct? thanks

if they are the short rods does it mean it's a 391 then ??

J305,

So far the closest thing I can find to your rod number is a C6AE-D which is a 66/70 427-428 high performance rod. It also states that it was a short rod in the 68 427 with a length of 6.488".

I can find a C1AE-C listed that says it was a 61/62 390 cubic inch short rod, same length as given above. Normally the last letter, C in your case designates a change of some kind in the part. Maybe an upgrade in alloy or something like that. I will keep digging through my junk and see if I can find more.

Ron
:confused:

J305, Sounds like the snout might have been machined or it is not the original crank. If you see a pronounced parting line running down the crank it is cast NOT forged. This is from the mold the crank was cast from. There shoud be some sort of numbers or markings on some of the counterweights. Also the C6AE-C rods are listed as 68-70 390 410 428 rods as well as for 66-70 330HD 361 and 391. G.

All the FE engines use the 6.488 rod except the 352/332 and possibly the smaller FT engines. Many rebuilders have now gotten into selling their own version of high performance engines since crate motors have been so popular. You may have what they refer to as a High Perf. 390, most of the ones I've seen usually have a better cam and head work as well as better oil pump. You might check with the company, that's what it sounds like you may have.

FFR428,

You have a better listing of Ford parts than I do. Would you please post the link so I can use it?

Thanks,

Ron :o

Ron, sorry no link for part info. Just collected books over the years. Some old ford parts manuals etc... The Steve Christ "How to rebuild your Big Block Ford" is a great quick reference guide. I see them on e-bay for around $17. Also www.fordfe.com is a great forum. Some really cool guys from the day hang there. That site is by far one of the best FE build sites ever. You will get many tricks,tips and part ID numbers from the forum and archives. G.

FFR428,

Thanks for the information. I will call Daltons today and see if they have or can get the Steve Christ book. I think I have seen it listed in some magazine I get so I will check there also.

Ron :)

i'll check tonight for the crank casting numbers, thanks for all the input guys