side oiler - tunnel port
 

Found a 'fresh' side oiler. Have not seen (or heard) the motor yet but have limited info (no part/casting #'s as yet). Any comments would be appreciated.

a) side oiler block .015 over (no sleeves)
b) steel stroker crank 454 (aftermarket - not 428)
c) 'H' beam rods
d) Weisco forged pistons 10:1
e) tunnel port heads (iron)
f) orig dual plane tunnel port intake w/2 Holleys
g) Comp Cams solid lifter cam (grind not known at this time)
h) Aviad oil pan
i) no clutch/pp or bellhousing

The motor was recently built and has 0 street miles. I can get documentation and hear it run. Seller wants 20k.

Comments, Opinions?

Thanks,

Melzer

My honest opinion is that I would not buy it. It just doesn't seem to be worth 20k. Aftermarket stroker FE rotating assys are very inexpensive. You can buy the rods, crank and pistons for less than 2k. If you bought an NOS side oiler block off ebay, you might spend about 6k on that, and about half that for a used one, with std bore. I'd guess about 3k for the tunnel port heads and intake setup, based on what I've seen them sell on ebay for recently. Add an extra 1k for all the rest of the engine parts, and 1500 for it to be professinailly built, and your only at about 13k or so (if you used an NOS block). Plus you would have had someone you trust build it. I just can't justify spending that kind of money on a motor already built. This is just my opinion though.

Melzer - I beg to differ with Sal. I have a .10 over block that has been verified as a "good" block. The best parts (full race) were used within which in essence is overkill for the intended use but gives the ultimate peace of mind. Personally, IF I were to sale mine, completed and tested, tuned and finished as is it would be a good 10K more than what your looking at. A typical common Shelby aluminum engine done right will typically cost about 23-25K and fall well short of the components that are within mine with no "special" designation to boot. Heck, properly done full out small blocks cost in the neighborhood of 20K! The one in my Superformance cost 17,500 for crying out loud - 20K for a GOOD side-oiler with the components you listed as a standard build is very reasonable (it would only be a deposit with my engine!).

Sal, however does bring up a good point regarding the build and builder of the engine. SO much can be screwed up with these things and it pays to have someone you know and trust plan, blueprint, prep and assemble the heart of your beast!

Remember cars are available all day long from EVERY manufacturer. Engines are as well but NOT side-oilers and I'm not talking about those "other" castings which are immediately verifiable as different from the originals (thank goodness!).

Best of luck!

Based on my one experience in buying a built engine over the internet, I would not recommend the approach to Osama. There are myriad fine points involved in building an engine, and without tearing your new purchase down and inspecting (and miking) all the critical variables, you really will not really know what you bought. I went for a Chevy LT1 383 blower motor from a sincere and knowledgable sounding character in AZ. By the time I finished checking everything, I had purchased a forged stroker crank...for $6500.

Based on my one experience in buying a built engine over the internet, I would not recommend the approach to Osama. There are myriad fine points involved in building an engine, and without tearing your new purchase down and inspecting (and miking) all the critical variables, you really will not know what you're buying. I went for a Chevy LT1 383 blower motor from a sincere and knowledgable sounding character in AZ. By the time I finished checking everything, I had purchased a forged stroker crank...for $6500.

$20K will not buy a WELL built 427 side oiler with tunnel pot heads.
Sure you could buy it, I doubt it will be something you would put in your car and not touch it. I agree with above comments. If I was to pay that kind a money for one, it would get dismanteled and looked over and reassembled.
RIght there is another $2000 to $3000. Maybe more if you sonic test, pressure check and measure everything. Probably more if you don't feel comfortable with some components and have to replace them.

If you are willing to spend upwards of $20,000 why not start from scratch and have it built for you by someone you can trust with parts you had a hand in choosing?

I have a 427 Side Oiler in my current car, that WAS in the car when I bought it. Know very little about it, and don't even have a cam card. I know who built it, but then again his reponsibuilty is not to me, it is to whomever he built it for.

Big decision!!

I-NO-NOTHING about this motor, just happened upon it today

http://www.hemmings.com/index.cfm/fu...tail/id/556590

maybe the experts will chime in
WB

That's interesting. My engine was bought as a complete standard bore unit from original bellhousing, pan to flywheel for $11,500 back in 1994 from an old farmer outside of Chicago. Then another 15K has been put into it since. Good items don't come cheap but sometimes there are exceptions - deals however are not always what they appear to be.

That's interesting. My engine was bought as a complete standard bore unit from original bellhousing, pan to flywheel for $11,500 back in 1994 from an old farmer outside of Chicago. Then another 15K has been put into it since. Good items don't come cheap but sometimes there are exceptions - deals however are not always what they appear to be.

BTW, is there any way to actually connect an engine to a car with side-oilers/Shelby's? I don't believe the vin was stamped on the block or were they? If they weren't I guess mine came out of #3001 and just went up another 10K.:eek:

Well.....it seems there are as many varied opinions on this motor as Ford has casting numbers.

I'd sure like to know where all these NOS side oiler blocks are....hmmm %/

Thanks to all for your input

Hey Turk...

What are "tunnel pot heads"? Is that a burnt out hippie with tunnel vision??......**) :LOL:

Speaking of NOS, I heard that you just might know where to find one.....is that true?

Keep smiling......

Melzer

Melzer,
Sometimes fingers are faster than the brain. Actually, almost always!
"Tunnel Pot Heads" are potheads driving through Holland Tunnel on their way to Grateful Dead Concert in Central Park.Aren't you glad you asked!

I don't know where all the NOS Side Oiler blocks are, but you can bet your bottom dollar I know wher one is!
Litle birdie must have talked.

OK thats it!!! I'm not running my side oiler to 6000 rpm anymore. You guys got me totally freaked out about "loosing" that motor in some way. And I was having fun until all the paranoia set in. :D

Melzer,

I heard that he still has it in the original box that it was sent in from Ford. Certified to be an excellent piece of muscle by a certified FE 427 GURU and all around nice guy (even if he does drive around with a Kool-Aid decal on his car).

Turk is the man!


Clois

Excal. - don't go soft on us side-oiler owner's now! My challenge motor by KCR is said to make peak power at 7,300 rpm's with a redline of about 7,800!!!!!!:D :D :D

I woulnd't have it any other way!!!!:D

Clois.....

If Turk really has the original shipping carton from Ford, then he should sell me the block....hey, he can always keep the box and 'stroke' it whenever he misses it!!:LOL: :3DSMILE:

I regularly turned the top oiler in my old Cobra to 7000, and even hit 7200 a few times. All the pieces held together fine.

Hell I'll build you a real nice stroker all aluminum FE engine for 20,000.00 and you will have a new engine with great parts that makes 650HP. We do it all the time. Keith Craft

Melzer,
If you want the block call George. It IS for sale.

TURK
You can have the box too.