FT Block?
 

Don't know what an FT block is. The guy that sold it to me said it is the "correct" date and markings for my GT500. It is a C7ME-A block. It has the "C" on the back and the reinforced main webbing like PI and early CJ blocks. It has a casting date of 7H8. Does an FT block have all of these markings? Was FT used as a 428? This stuff is driving me crazy.

An FT block is a heavy truck block used on the 391 (and 361 IIRC) they are commonly found to have 428 core castings, so they can be bored to 428 bore. I have been told that all "428 service" blocks are actually FT blocks. It is possible that it had the bushing, and vatting removed it.

I believe they do have the main webbing, not sure about casting numbers and dates or the "C".

I could also be wrong.

My distributor shaft is .453, very snug fit in the hole in the block. The OLD shaft keeper is .575, but the new one is only .515. So apparently they CAN vary in size. Both will work with the hole size I have in the block. Hope this helps...

Sounds like the 428 may have a substantially bigger hole than a 427? By the way, WHAT bushing? No bushing in my hole, just cold drilled steel.

musclecargt500,

It appears you have a FT (truck) block. That is not necessarily a bad thing, you just need to get a bushing to put in the distributor hole. The truck engines used a larger oil pump drive shaft, forcing the distributor shaft to be larger as well. They also had larger diameter crankshaft noses and thicker flywheel flanges (no effect on your build either way). These beefier parts helped them endure the stress of getting a big truck moving.

Anyway, there are truck blocks out there that look exactly like CJ blocks. I have seen them with the "C" on the back, with webbing, CJ date codes..... they look exactly like a CJ block EXCEPT they have the tell-tale large distributor hole.

Fortunately, your problem can be solved as easily as a trip to your local Ford dealership. Believe it or not, they can get you a bushing for this application. They cost around $15 to $20 depending on if they have to get one shipped in from another dealer or warehouse. Also try DSCmotorsport.com - I think he sells them too.

Be careful when installing the bushing, it has an oil hole in it that must line up with the passage in the block. Also be sure to put some loctite on it or it could spin in the block later.

Again, don't let this scare you about your block, it is most likely a good block - it just happened to live in a big truck engine bay. Look at it like this - it's probably never even seen 5000 RPM and you essentially have a "new" standard bore 428 block because it truly is sitting on a newly finished bore at 4.13"

So, is it this simple? I just go to my local Ford dealer and ask for a distributor drive bushing for an FT engine block? Or are they gonna look at me like I am crazy? I found a thread on network54 that had this part number C4TZ-12367-A, is this what I need?

That's the one... go get that bushing and you are on your way again.

I called a local Ford dealer and they had it in the computer but "zero" in stock and had no idea how to get it. He said it was no longer stocked. Someone said before that Federal Mogul makes it, does anyone have that part number? My build is at a screeching halt until I acquire this bushing. If you have one and want to sell it please email me. Thanks.

Go about 3/4 of the way down this list.

http://www.dscmotorsport.com/Engine/index.htm

To:

Ford Truck Block Distributor Bushing $20.00 / ea Code N

Part Details
Part Number: C4TZ-12367-A
Name: Ford Truck Block Distributor Bushing
Description: Used by Ford to convert HD Ford Truck(FT 361, 391 etc)Blocks to passenger car use. Thick Bronze bushing reduces diameter of distributor hole so an automotive type distributor can be used in the Truck Block. New
Price: $20.00 / ea

Dennis will hook you up.

Which was is it installed?
 

Hope this is not a dumb question but....does it install from the top of the block?

I don't see why it couldn't. They are normally installed on a bare block AFIK.

Ask Dennis about it when you call to order.

I'm also sure you could get it from Keith or George, I just knew how to find it fast on Dennis's website.

I have already ordered it from Dennis. I may give him a call and ask him about installing it. Thanks.

Ahhhhh! Much progress was made. I have the short block completed. Heads are on. Now waiting for the back ordered Crane valvetrain and need to figure out the pushrods. Edelbrock says to use stock length ball and cup type. Here is a current picture:

You running a Crane Hyd Roller that was previously talked about?

Just a heads up, but the valley tray would not fit with my Crower Solid Rollers, but I was able to use off the shelf Crower pushrods.

(Much to my surprise)

I'm nearly certain that the Crane Hyd Rollers are going to requre shorter than stock pushrods.

It is looking good!

Nah, I went with the flat tappet hydraulic Edelbrock RPM to match the heads. It should use stock length rods for a hydraulic cam.

Depending on the type of intake manifold a valley tray would not be used.

If you can use the tray. It helps keep the hot oil off the intake. As you are not using a heat crossover on the heads the tray will help keep the intake even cooler.

Point well taken Bruce. I recall reading a "Hot Rod" magazine article years ago were they tested an engine with and the same engine without a valley pan. They (and myself) were astonished to see WITH the pan there was a measurable increase in horse power. I can't recall but I suspect it was the cooler intake manifold.

By the way, the high riser intake on my engine does not have a "heat cross over", as the high riser heads don't have the ports for it. Medium riser and others do. I'm in a warm climate so it has zero impact on "driveability" issues for me.

Do not think you get any warmer than I do here in Florida and anything you can do to make the air charge cooler WILL have an impact on horse power. Basic rule. The more air and fuel you can stuff in the more power you will get it. Cooler air is denser than hot so a cooler running intake will give more power than a hotter one.

I would absolutely use the valley pan if it will fit, which it should with a flat tappet cam.

I considered doing some surgery to mine but decided against it.

Getting closer!
 

I had to scrap the Crane rockers that were on back order and go with Harland Sharps. Got the stock Cobra valve covers and the PI intake in place.