After I first got my motor together I had a pretty major leak from the intake manifold. I pulled the manifold and replaced the gaskets and that solved about 99% of my problem. I think my current leak is probably coming from the timing chain cover but it's hard to say for sure.

Keep us posted and let us know if you've solved yours.

Chris

Success ! The timming cover/crank seal, does not leak anymore. We just eyed it as best we could, tightened the bolts slowly to make sure the cover didn't move & it worked. Adjusted the valves, tunned her up, runs great & no.....leaks at all ! Happy days are here again !
Thanks for all of you advise & replys guys.

Kev

On metal bodied seals where there is only paint on the outer edge you may need some Permatex or the oil resistant RTV to seal the actual seal body to the timing cover housing. Carful to not have any gouges in the seal pocket in the timing cover or get the seal out of round when installing .If the crank spacer is not grooved from previous use or cut under size a original size seal should work .I've seen used spacers turned down to get rid of the groove but it's now underseized and fits original sized oil seal too loose.Original seal requires original crank spacer OD diameter. Carful use of oil resistant RTV is essential. Watch the corners where cover meets block and oilpan .Loosen the oilpan,let it drop. when installing timing cover ,set the cover in place ,slide crank spacer into seal on crank let the cover center it's self on the crank spacer .Tighten timing cover bolts down. Now worry about sealing the pan off.Gaskets and Oil resistant RTV will take care of most alignment problemswith block and timing cover oilpan surfaces not matching.The fit of the seal is most important .Seal needs to contact the spacer with the right pressure all the way around . You may have a good seal and a proper seized spacer .But if you tighten the cover down first and then stuff the crank spacer into it ,the cover maybe off center, causing too much seal contact pressure on one side and not enough or even a gap on the other.
The speedy sleeve has two approaches 1st is to cut the spacer down and install sleeve returning outside surface to original OD dia with a new smooth surface uses original size seal. 2nd method a new sleeve is installed over original diameter crank spacer and a special seal that fits the new larger OD dia of sleeve on on original crank spacer is used. This is the kind of stuff the machinist takes care of.