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427 Rods Question
We're bluepinting a build right now. I have the block (427TO), heads (Edelbrock Aluminum 74cc) manifold/carburation (2x4's), steel crank and pistons (Aries Forged Aluminum 10-1). I was going to use Lemans rods or Cobra Jet rods but the Lemans rods are 60 grams heavier than then the Cobra Jet rods and I'm strip racing it. My motorhead suggested we use Eagle rods which fall in between the other two choices in weight. I think they also have the double snap lock's for the pins, but I'm not sure.
Anyone with opinions or experience with the Eagle rods, I would appreciate any comments, advice or alternatives. Thanks. Bernie |
Burnd Bernie Use the eagle rods with ARP 2000 bolts and keep the limiter to MAX 6500rpm. What is this motor going in? If a cobra, go with a 20 lbs flywheel. I have a new in the box C9ZZ-6200A rods inboxes I didn't use because of the wieght. I have Eagles in my first motor with a cast 428 crank and limit the balanced bottomend to 6000 rpm. My next motor is going the BBC rods and billet crank. Lighter parts is better for 1/4 racing. Good luck. I thought that the eagle rods wieght 640 compared to the stock ones that wieght 680-690. Rick Lake
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Ernie,
I no longer use Lemans rods for Fe builds although I have boxes of used ones laying around. The cost of rebuilding a set of used Lemans rods now makes it cost prohibitive versus the cost of brand new aftermarket rods. I prefer using the Eagle rods or suitable counterpart whenever possible as they are now reasonably priced using brand new material and are lighter than the Lemans rods. At this point, material fatigue due to age and use are a major consideration against using any used rod in a performance build. And regarding the CJ rods, I'm not a fan of the 3/8" bolt kit that is supplied by ARP as a replacement for the stock CJ bolts. At this point, I'll use the standard 390 or 428 Thunderjet rods with the non-shanked ARP rod bolt set when wanting to use a stock set of rods in an engine build. Just my thoughts on connnecting rods. Ted Eaton. |
I've heard that referrence to Le Mans or CJ rods being "so old" they may be "weak" several different times. I assume this "age" reference is about rod "service life". The time it was actually used in an engine. Like NOS rods or verfiyable "low mileage" rods would be perfectly acceptable, I would think?
Granted if you have to "re-build" an old rod, I'd be looking hard at new or after market ones. Or if your going to run extreme rpm you can't go wrong with a new "after market" rod for insurance. I'm running CJ rods myself, which when checked by the machine shop needed no additional work. My motor only had a few thousand miles on it since the last major re-build. I was mainly just "freshening" it with new low compression pistons and a more street friendly cam. Of course all new internals like bearings, oil pump, etc. Fired it up yesterday, sounds great, runs smooth, I'm stoked! |
Thanks for the comments.
I haven't pulled the trigger yet on rods, but I wanted to thank you guys for taking the time to offer your advice and comments. I'll bite the bullet here soon and do "sumpin". I'm still waffeling a little. As my other half says: You got to have a strong bottom end". Thanks again.
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Go to Mustang Depot if you don't want to spend the extra money for the Eagle Rods, MD sells a rod that I am told is very comprable to the Eagle for about half the price. However, if you are going to all the trouble of blue printng your engine why not spend the extra money to keep it together. Your engine is only as strong as it's weakest part, I know I built a couple that didn't last trying to save a few bucks.
Clois |
I agree with you..... not cutting corners in bottom end.
Clois:
I don't have a problem with the price of the Eagle rods. Actually, I thought they were quite reasonable. It's the China forging that doesn't thrill me. I wasn't looking to cut corners; was just trying to get the most bang for the buck with weight vs strength. More importantly, I want to feel comfortable at 6500 without a second thought. Carillo and Manleys were a consideration, but i didn't know if I need to spring up that far in cost for rod integrity. It's a stretch considering some of the other paraphernalia I still have to buy. All it takes is money and I'm not exactly rolling in it, but I'd rather pay now, than a second time... later. Thanks for the tip on MD. Bernie |
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