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-   -   Oil leak (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/fe-talk/71829-oil-leak.html)

undy 02-16-2009 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FUNFER2 (Post 921544)
Hey undy- yes, no huskin or driving my cobra. And thinking of my 482 plans, just makes it woorser (like my niece says) lol

I just got done with a 20 mile around town shakedown cruise. All system are go and the smile's still "frozen" on my face. I just had a hooded sweatshirt and a long sleeved Tee. Actually, I didn't get cold at all. Niether did the rubber on the Mickey Thompson ET Street drag radials:eek::LOL::3DSMILE:

Dave

lovehamr 02-16-2009 09:07 PM

And where are the friggin' pictures Dave?!;)

Steve

RallySnake 02-16-2009 10:46 PM

I let a friend take his young daughter around the block in my Cobra. As they pulled away, someone mentioned the few drops of oil it left on the ground. I said, "Oh no it's not leaking, these cars are so mean, they just like to mark their territory". :LOL:

Ron61 02-17-2009 03:08 AM

:)

I think I would worry more if I never found some drops of oil under my FE than I would if it never leaked. It started about two weeks after the car was new in 1969 and has done so ever since despite changing everything that can be changed. Sometimes I would almost swear it comes through the block. I have used the dye and about every thing else and finally found that if I didn't worry about the drips, it is ok.

Ron :o

RICK LAKE 02-17-2009 04:09 AM

Get a leak kit from the store
 
D+10 Dave the auto stores sell leak dye kits for about $45.00 dollars. They are easy to use. Pour the little bottle of dye in the motor, trans or what every is leaken and road test the car for about 10 miles or until fully warmed up. There is a light and glasses that will show you where the leak starts at and is located. Some valve cover leaks are from the intake that you only will find with the dye. What every sealer you use, the surfaces MUST be clean. The sealer should have a lite skin just starting to form on it and it needs a FULL 24 hours for it too setup. We all have different ways to build motors and different sealers are needed for each location. The GREY sealer is what we use where I work with full cure time allowed. Have not had any failures from doing intakes, oil pans, and heads. I use Hi-Tac on head gaskets and Grey RTV on all other locations. I use the heavy cork valve covers with them glued to the cover, I check the rockers after racing. I reuse them for a couple of years or until them are crushed. Rear main seal is the normal problem for FE motors. If you have a rope seal, it will leak. I keep cardboard under the car for this. This is part of owning a cobra.:rolleyes:;):) Rick L.

FUNFER2 02-17-2009 08:54 AM

Dave- :( You just bummed me out my friend !

Rally-"Oh no it's not leaking, these cars are so mean, they just like to mark their territory". :LOL:

Rick- U da man ! ;)

acmjg 02-17-2009 09:54 AM

Marking Territory
 
If there's no oil under it, theres no oil in it!!!!

Bill Bess 02-26-2009 07:13 AM

Now Now Boys! An engine is not suspose to leak..even the FE, maybe after 70 or 80 thousand miles of hard drivin they will, but normally they should not leak.
If the engine is put together right ( clean and smooth gasket surfaces), breaths correctly (pcv installed) there should be no problem.
After market stuff is alway suspect, oil pans and valve covers, if they leak all you can do is replace them gaskets and hope for no oil,.... then install that garage floor drip pan.

So far my valve cover gaskets are the only problem ( off too many times), new ones fixed it.

Keep-On Havin Fun, Bill


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