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Oil leak
I have an oil leak on a new (under 100 miles) Shelby aluminum FE. It seems to be on the right side. The starter has oil on it and there were streaks from the back of the right valve cover so I tightened the cover and no relief. Any ideas where to focus the search.
Art D. |
Intake manifold? I went through this awhile back. Different circumstances but Valve cover and intake manifold were mentioned as possible causes on mine .John
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Either could be the culprit. If it IS the valve cover, merely tightening it won't usually stop a leak. It's a pull, re-gasket, re-install. Also, check the mating surface between the intake and the head at the valve cover rail. If the intake wasn't set properly there'll be a lip there and you'll have a heck of a time getting the valve cover to seal.
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How bad?
How bad is the leak?
You do know that all FE's leak a little, right? You wouldn't know is was and FE for sure otherwise. :D It's just an accepted part of FE ownership.:eek: Get yourself a bag of 'kitty litter' like everyone else!:p Seriously, FE's are extremely hard to stop from leaking someplace. All you can really hope to do is slow it down to an acceptable level, and live with it. If it's leaking real bad, then you'll need to fix it. Welcome to the FE club, the smell of oil burning will be part of you now!:LOL: I honestly don't know of anyone's FE engine that doesn't leak 'just a little'. Anyone? Anyone? jdog:) P.S. That's why I painted my engine block black! |
jdog, I think you're right...
I have about 800 miles on a new professionally rebuilt aluminum FE. After an hour of spirited driving I have four areas that produce a drop of oil each. Below each valve cover, one below the main oil inlet to the block and one on the bottom of the bell housing. I just raise the car up and wipe them up. Already cranked on the bolts enough! I also always have a drop on the bottom of the rearend. I can deal with a drop or two.
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If you have steel valve covers (Even Pentroofs), they will leak, where as the thicker aluminum, will not with a good gasket. If I did not have to lash my valves a couple of times per year, I would just use gaskets AND, silicone.
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I am 99% leak free...
... try doing what I do. Get the RUBBER valve cover gaskets. Put a bead of the 3m Weather Sealant you see below on your valve covers and place the rubber gaskets on. Put the valve covers on the car and squash them down with your hands; do not tighten them down. Let them sit for 24 hours. Remove the valve covers (with the rubber gaskets now thoroughly bonded to them) and put a glob of grease on your finger and run it around the rubber gasket. Install your valve covers and torque to 5 ft/lbs. Then put a glob of the black rtv on your finger and swab your finger in the manifold/head spot and along the back of the valve cover where it meets the head. Let it sit for another 24 hours. Remember, three drops or less on an FE is considered "bone dry."
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...er_sealant.JPG |
lol,...:LOL:
I was searching, and looked at this thread but did not, read when it was posted. ! :JEKYLHYDE And yes,....I do have cabin fever and,....with drawls ! :( |
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EDIT -- Well, everybody with an FE leaks to a certain extent. Maybe this thread will help to lessen somebody's leak. Kind of a "let's all go green" type thread...:LOL: |
Hey "Half-Ass member" lol
Pat, don't you lash your valves much having a solid flat tappet ? I adjust mine twice per year. Sometimes, they have not loosened up at all but, I check anyway. Then I release the pressure on the valve train for winter storage. That's why I don't get too carried away with sealing the covers with sealant. |
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Once a year. The Ersons hold a lash very well and then when I put the valve covers back on I just run a fresh glob of black RTV along the back and let them sit for 24 hours. I really believe those black rubber valve cover gaskets that are now 3m sealed to the covers will last forever. But a good 50%, maybe a bit more, of the pundits on the FE forum prefer cork. |
Its an FE and yes it still leaks.....but I have learned to love those drips on the garage floor where it's marking its territory. Thanks for the new hints....I will try some of those this year.
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You gotta check back more often. :JEKYLHYDE
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This reminds me of something...
... Some of the folks around here might remember the P&G Valve Gapper of many, many years ago. There's a shot of it below. Well, you can't buy that tool any more but I found another tool maker that makes something quite similar. Click here to see it: http://www.precisionmeasure.com/valve4.htm I keep reminding myself to go ahead and buy it for the next valve gapping.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...Valve_Tool.jpg |
We'll just treat this a public service announcement.
"Gentlemen, in case you haven't noticed, your FE leaks oil. Live with it and please clean up your mess." :LOL: |
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Right Kev, a lill' big block fever?? |
NAPA sells thick rubber gaskets that work great, I've pulled for valve adjustment, reinstalled and 'no' leaks. When the engine is cool run your fingers around all gaskets area's, good way to pin point leak.
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Hey undy- yes, no huskin or driving my cobra. And thinking of my 482 plans, just makes it woorser (like my niece says) lol
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