Fe: Basic Wiring Question

[khansmith]

Hey All:
I am a novice with all things wiring. I have a 428FE with mechanical fuel pump, carb, MSD ignition, etc. I have recently mounted the engine into my frame and routed my battery cables from the trunk of the car. I have NO idea how to wire up the engine, power for accessories and proper grounding techniques. Would anyone have a wiring diagram and list of essential items needed (for example do I need a solenoid?)?? Again, I am a novice so more detail would be very much appreciated.

Thank you in advance
Khan

[blueovalfanatic]

Khan- Hello. I got a book awhile back from a street rod parts supplier, but I cannot remember which one...Springfields, Yogis, or something like that. I did a search and here is the book, and it's the same one I have. At like $7.00, its a great book and will surely prove very useful. In fact, I ordered both of them, but the "How to wire your streetrod" I think is the better of the two. Heres the link...http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...106/prd106.htm

I can give you specifics if youd like, if you cannot wait for the book to arriv. But yes, you will need a starter solenoid, and with the car having a fiberglass body, you will need to utilize a ground bus or equivelant to make sure everything has a good ground.

Hope this helps,
Greg

[sharpe 1]

go to painlesswiring.com they have some down loadable diagrams that may help.Look in the parts and manuel search section. use the universal chassis wiring harness.
good luck sharpe 1

[RichBurroughs]

Khan,
There are some wiring diagrams that are included with your wiring harness. Your harness already has a grounding kit installed so you won’t be grounding things to the frame. Here is what you will need (in general) for a basic, old school, FE build.

- OEM starter with external solenoid.
- Ford alternator (ext. regulator, the alternator must be less than 4 inches thick from mounting tab to back of alternator to clear the head).
- Ford 4 wire External Voltage Regulator
- Firewall mounted solenoid.
- HEI Distributor & ignition (MSD, Ford Duraspark, etc.) or traditional (old school) vacuum advance distributor, ballast resistor, and coil.


Take a look at the diagrams and then give me a call. I can help decipher the diagrams and then I will walk you through the basic wiring for the FE.

[Burgs]

Kahn,
Rich has it right, however there is another way. If you buy an aftermarket starter with a built in solenoid you can eliminate the solenoid on the firewall. Also with a 1 wire alternator, you can eliminate the voltage regulator. This will simplify the wiring a bit also. If you want to keep it old school, I bought the parts, but never used them. Two regulators, one new style, and one that looks old style, but has the new style electronics in it, a solenoid, and an alternator. If you want them, they are pretty cheap!
Brad

[khansmith]

Thank you to everyone who replied. I am starting to understand this much more. I really appreciate your thoroughness!

[chas427fe]

Kahn, make sure that your battery cables are #2 gauge. The guy who built mine used #6 and my starter was dragging. My mechanic found this and after changing it my engine turns over the way it is supposed to. Chas

[LMH]

Hey Khan
I was just checking out your build site and the car is looking great! That FE is really sweet. Keep up the good work!
Larry

[Clois Harlan]

Kahn,

I know that many people don't think you need to run a ground from your frame to your engine but I have found that if you do, you will eliminate a lot of minor voltage problems later on. Take an 18" piece of battery cable and attach it to an unpainted spot on your block and then GRIND off the paint in an adjacent area of your frame and attach it (you can buy a 0 to 4 gauge battery cable with eyelet connectors on both ends that will accept a 5/16" bolt). You may need to drill a hole in your frame and tap it for a 5/16" bolt.

Sometimes after your car has been on the road a short while your grounds will loose their effectiveness because of dirt or road debris and your car will become harder to start or your headlights will become dim. Real easy thing to do at this stage of your build.


Clois

[elgecko]

I am using both a external solenoid on the firewall and a solenoid on the starter. The starter is a mini-high torque one and has a built in solenoid.
I find the external firewall mounted solenoid very handy for connecting a remote starter, a convenient source of battery power. I have a trunk mounted battery.

Dave

[khansmith]

Originally Posted by Clois Harlan

Kahn,

I know that many people don't think you need to run a ground from your frame to your engine but I have found that if you do, you will eliminate a lot of minor voltage problems later on. Take an 18" piece of battery cable and attach it to an unpainted spot on your block and then GRIND off the paint in an adjacent area of your frame and attach it (you can buy a 0 to 4 gauge battery cable with eyelet connectors on both ends that will accept a 5/16" bolt). You may need to drill a hole in your frame and tap it for a 5/16" bolt.

Sometimes after your car has been on the road a short while your grounds will loose their effectiveness because of dirt or road debris and your car will become harder to start or your headlights will become dim. Real easy thing to do at this stage of your build.


Clois

Thanks Clois
I was checking out the block last night and there are lots of different areas on the block I coudl attach the negative to. Where on your block did you choose to attach?