Cold Blooded FE
 

Does anyone have any suggestions on starting an FE when it's cold? Since, my Holly Double Pumper 750 doesn't have a choke, I'm having a devil of a time starting the engine when its cold...cold is relative living in Cali and it's 75degrees! I've pumped the gas pedal, I've kept the pedal down and nothing seems to work. It takes me cranking on the starter for 5 minutes before she starts. Once the engine is warm, I have no trouble idling at 1K RPMs.

Would using a little starter fluid in the carb before cranking the starter help? How about covering the butterflys with a board to simulate a choke? All suggestions welcomed!
Thanks!

Is it getting enough spark? I have an Optima Red Top and MSD AL ignition and it starts right up after two or three pumps a couple of times. Multiple sparks at the plugs is a good thing... Rich

Re:
 

Hmmm, we have the same ignition. I believe I have enough spark because once the engine is warm, I don't have any problem turning it over...

Same here; two pumps to the floor (three on a really cold day) and she fires right up. Once she has been running though never touch the throttle before re-starting.

This works for me: Pump the pedal 3 or 4 times, take your foot completely off the gas, turn the key and don't touch the pedal again until the motor starts to catch. The closed throttle blades act as a choke.

I first crank the engine over without pumping the pedal until I begin to get some oil pressure, and then while still cranking the engine over, I pump the pedal repeatedly until it fires up, about 3-5 pumps. Works every time.

5 minutes of cranking in 75 degree weather seems to indicate a problem other than pumping technique. Is your initial timing waaaay off?

Try another coil.

I had the exact same problem on my '46 Ford street rod. It had to be "just right" for it to start - 3 pumps not four, 2/3 part throttle not 3/4, nurse it just so...and then it simply would not start at all one day. A new coil (replaced an MSD with a parts store cheapy to try it) and suddenly it starts on the first hit every time...

Bluedog,
I'm thinking like Commander. But, if the timing is correct, how strong is your spark?

Years ago I had a severe starting problem. Once while trying to determine what the problem was, I happened to have the hood up and was looking into the engine compartment while cranking the engine. I saw an arc jumping from the middle of the coil wire to a nearby metal bracket. That bugger was robbing most of the energy before it was getting to the plugs. :CRY:

That pinhole in the coil wire was nearly invisible to the eye.:rolleyes:

David

Re: Follow-Up
 

Thanks for the suggestions so far! I've been going through a process of elimination trying to rule out the easy stuff. I sprayed just a little starter fluid into the 4 barrell and it started right up! Don't think it's a timing or spark issue from this test. Does the result suggest I'm not getting enough fuel into the carb? If so, you already know my next question, where do I increase the fuel mixture on a Holly 750?

Before trying to start it cold next time, look down the primary side of the carb. with a flashlight and pump the accellerator a few times. You should see 2 sprays of fuel during each pump. If not your carb bowl may be draining the fuel out while sitting. Make sure nobody touches the key and its off while looking down the carb.

Try what Cobred suggests. If the primaries are spraying, then it's most likely a spark and/or timing issue. If not, then you have a carb issue and should look on the Holley site for help. I have the same MSD set-up and Holley... couple pumps on the throttle and blam, she's fired up. You can try the sock in the carb to simulate a choke, but with 75 degree temp it shouldn't be necessary. By the way.... that starter fluid will light up by rubbing a couple of sticks together :LOL:

Starting problem
 

I was having the exact same problem with my 427 so. I finally fount the culprit. What I did was purchase and electric fuel pressure gauge and permanently mounted it under my dash with a clock so it looked professional. Found out that when the car sat for over a week, fuel pressure would bleed down. When I crank the engine, it took quite awhile for fuel pressure to build back up and then the engine started. Problem: leaking down fuel pump.
Replaced, fuel pressure comes right up: engine starts. Let me know it that helps. BTW. If you plan on putting a fuel pressure gauge in your cabin like I did. Please, please and pay the extra $$ for an electric gauge with a sensor. You do not want a line running into your car with fuel as in mechanical gauge.
Regards,
Mike R

If your running a MSD distributor, check the cap coil post ball inside. I've been chewing these up like bubble gum. First cap ball was completely gone and the second one was almost completely sanded away. Only about 400 miles on each of them. Cured my starting problems all together. Click starts every time.

Just for grins, what starter type and model are you using to crank that FE over with?

One thing I didn't mention is that I have a separate button under the dash (its actually a horn button) that I use to turn over the engine with no spark until I get full oil pressure. A kinder, gentler way to start your cold engine. I am sure this brings the fuel right up to the carburetor as well. Then a couple of pumps or so of the throttle is usually enough to fire it up with my ignition key, even with my rather nasty valve timing. Having a garage and living in California doesn't hurt, either. :d Rich

Dog, You bascially have a similar Shelby that I do
 

I have a CSX with a Pond 482/Bigs 750cfm HP. Does take 2 to 3 miles to warm up.

Steps to starting:
1. Turn switch on

2. Turn on electric pumps. Wait 10 seconds for pressure to build up and the fuel to get to the carb.

3. Press the gas pedal down twice (2 times then off).

4. Hit the starter, when it pops give it a little gas and feather the gas peddle to get it up to 1500 RPM to warm up.

If this does not work then look at the carb adjustment.

cold blooded FE
 

Bluedog,

I have a 427 with a Demon 750 CFM, with no choke horn also. I do keep the Cobra in the garage. Every time I go to start it, I pump it one time, it turns over about 5 to 6 revolutions, and starts right up! For some reason, it is not cold blooded. I have had FE's in the past that acted like yours.
By the time I drive about 100 feet down the driveway, it's idling fine at about 1,000 RPM's.
I think it's all in the fine tuning of the carb. Even if the fuel line bleeds down a little, there's enough fuel in the carb to start, and run for a minute or two.
Good luck!

Re: Follow-Up
 

Thanks everyone for your great suggestions. I took the car to a dyno shop and had the carb dialed in. The car starts after after 4 or 5 pumps! Its also idles at 900 RPM. I'm really going to miss the starter fluid! :LOL:

Regards,

Not much is going to happen until there is some gas in the carbruetor . That is the problem with mechanical fuel pumps. You have to crank the whole engine over to operate the fuel pump. I have an electric fuel pump. I turn on the fuel pump and wait for the sound of the running pump to change indicating that the carb is full and the floats have stopped the flow into the carbs brfore ever trying to crank the engine over. I to have no chockes . When I forget to turn on the fuel pump switch it is useles to try to start tyhe engine when cold. My problem is after the car has been running is it may restart on the gasoline in the carb but will die soon and I panic then realizing I had that switch turned off. fuel pumps(2) are powered off the ignition switch but has to come through a switchs (2) on dash ( with indicator lights on dash). I once had to make a trip of about 30 miles to help my wife, all because she had turned off the electric both fuel pump switchs. I used to have a time leaving the master switch on ,the heat would rise in the radiator and turn on the electric fans and run the batteries down . If I would turn everything off for a few minutes the batteries would gain enough to rattle the electric fuel pump and fill the carbs. At that point any incline at all and I could roll the car pop the clutch and off we'd go. But try has I have, it still needs gasoline in the carbs to get anything to happen.
My car also has no choke . I have dual fours with no choke towers at all. Cold weather starting is hard. Warm up is dellicate. Too much throttle before the engine oil is warm will shear the distributor drive gear pin. Then the fire goes out. No damage to engine but have to and remove the distributor to repair. Takes about an hour.