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Rob...I'm running (and have been since new in 2003) a Holly 850DP on the 482.
No problemos whatsoever, street or track. |
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Can you cruise at 1500 RPM? |
Rob-
The inability to cruise at 1500 rpm is more likely a function of your cam than your carb. I imagine your motor probably has a pretty big cam in it- in all likelihood it probably won't run smoothly until 2000 rpm or so regardless of what carb you have on the motor. But that being said, a smaller carb will have better throttle response than a bigger carb. IMO, if you do a lot of street driving and are not worried about hp in the 6k rpm range, putting a 750 on is not a bad idea and will likely increase low rpm throttle response, but you will lost some top end hp. It is all a give and take. |
A sure fix
Put fuel injection on it and it will run like a top. 14-15 mpg and 900-1000 rpm idle. Never misses a beat.:)
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If you are getting 14-15 mpg with that 482 FE you aren't sticking foot in it far enough.
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My throttle response is actually awesome. But, it's got lots of hick ups if just cruising below 2000, but at 2000 and up, smooth as glass. I guess it's the cam, but it does make 661 HP at 6000 and 670 ft-lbs at 4500, so I guess that's just what it is. And no, I don;t use the 661 HP, but I cruise a lot. hhhmmm.%/
Okay, so the only problem really is that stall issue under g's. I will play with the float level some more and see if it has any affect. The idle dropped to 500 today, so I will bump it back to 1000 and go from there.:JEKYLHYDE Boy, I thought carbs were simple.:confused: |
Yup...I'd say you're ok given the big cam. Something else to consider...I'm running a WR toploader versus your five speed. Everything needs to work together...gearing, carb, cam, etc.
Center your efforts on the stalling. You've received good info/ideas from folks here. If I were you, take a carb guy out with you and try to recreate the stalling. |
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That could be a clue. |
Yep!
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My motor now will idle no problem at 1000 rpm's and will not stall however it does not run smooth at under 2500 rpms. The reason is the cam. 630 lift. |
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do you have any room to ad an extention to your float overflow tube on your carb we did it to check fuel slosh,we race d on a highly banked track30degrees+100+mph and that pesky fuel was coming out and going back down the carb we lowerd our fuel below the glass and that fixed it. of corse it was just barely below but it made a diff.good luckWB
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An inconsistant idle could be many things. I was having that problem and it turned out to be the distributor. The mechanical advance wasn't returning all the way on an intermittent basis so it would idle high until it sat for a bit then would start dropping as the timing returned to normal. Might want to check the timing on the car before and after going for a run as well as watching the advance with the timing light to see if it resets as the RPM drops. Might want to pull the cap and rotor to check the springs on the advance.
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What do the plugs look like?
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Since this is way more stuff than I know, I made an appointment with a local shop that will dyno tune the car this Friday. I'll let you know how it turns out.
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Rob-
Just as an fyi. Unless they install the jet extensions and/or vent whistles on the carb, the dyno tune session will not cure your stalling problem on hard braking. |
You have a drivability problem--it will not be solved on the dyno--they will run it stationary from 4500-6500 rpm---you need to drive it from an idle to 2500
Jerry |
I told the guy that the last thing I want is more power. I told him that I want drivability from idle to 4500 RPM and that the stalling needs to be addressed first. I think I have two separate issues. We'll see what happens. I apreciate all of the feedback.
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Rob...just remember: Whatever is broke can be fixed on these things.
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ya no we had those floats with that were special made with the corners cut off, now they are very common ther black not metel, so when the fuel moves to the left or right it doesnt raise the level anyone else ever usedm??
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