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Running a pre-oiler will eliminate a lot of the start-up wear. You can do this with a differential cooler pump or one of the pressure bottles.
You'll see just about all these products quote the ASE findings that 50% of engine wear occurs at startup. Straight 30wt (no W anything) ashless oil is the way to go. Synthetic after 3K miles break-in. Change it every 10,000 miles or it gets noticably dirty. 'bout the best you can do. (besides getting rid of that carb) Fuel injection has done more to extend engine life then any other solution. The teflon thing happened right about the time FI was adopted so many were fooled by the hype. A high nickel content block don't hurt either. |
My Step Father introduced me to MMO in the late 80's. I had a 1982 Mustang GT with about 100K on the odometer at the time. He poured the MMO directly into the carb and the motor blew out an amazing amount of white smoke which he told me was carbon. It looked like a mosquito fogger had gone off. I still put a little in the gas now and then to keep the valves clean.
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One note of caution when using MMO for air tools- a small amount is OK, even good for the vane/cylinder however a large amount can displace the grease if your bearings are not sealed (and most aren't in impact wrenches). MMO has an air tool specific oil that is better for this purpose. The best thing to do to protect your tools is to give it a little shot of oil when you are done and run it for a secoind or two. This will coat the motor internals and protect it from oxidation until the next use.
I used to work for Ingersoll-Rand Tool division for 18 years. |
We use MMO for tapping. We have never put it in a car. I think my brother would die before he would put any snake oil in anything. You would have to ask him, however.
David :):):) |
:LOL: You mean even the KIRKHAMS use MMO for something? I tell you, thats gotta be some good stuff right there.
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Frankly, the stuff stinks like crazy and make a slimy mess. I actually prefer 90 weight for tapping as it is thicker and sticks to the tap. But, Thomas likes MMO for tapping.
David :):):) |
I'm an "old time" mechanic. I started using Marvel Mystery Oil back in 1958. I joined the US Air Force in 1961, while using the additive in my Ford with a fresh rebuilt engine. After 170,000 miles, I decided to "upgrade" to a larger , more cube engine. I sold my old engine which had good compression to a friend. No problems. Some time donw the road my buddy had to replace the oil pump, he told me the inside of the engine looked like it was rebuilt yesterday. NO sludge, no varnish, no dirt!! He said it was a pleasure to work on iT. You figure!!
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I use oil. Plain old, brand name oil from any parts store. On the cylinder, on the rings, on the bearings, on the valve giudes. That is the lube that'll be in the engine from the first second it fires up - so why use any other sauce? I prelube and turn every motor - so the super goo would be gone anyhow in a matter of seconds.
The only exception is the flat tappet cam deal, where I use every specialty lube I can find all at the same time, along with prayers and an offering (burnt Chevy parts) to the FE Gods upon fire up.... |
I used Marvels in my Ford diesels with the 7.3 and I actually got a little gain in MPG. I also used it in a boat that I had with a supercharged 510 CI chevy motor putting out 850 hp on AV gas. The builder said that AV gas burned a little dry so he said to use Marvel. It worked fine.
A friend though had some problems with it when he used it in his new Duramax / GMC truck. It caused some injector problems. |
Barry, "burnt Chevy parts"? An excellent offering! :LOL:
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After reading this article on bobistheoilguy, I decided never to use any oil additives.
The Story With Additives |
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