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Value of 427 s/o
Hello All,
Been a while since I posted. I am considering an engine change in my ERA and am wondering what value to place on my side oiler? I believe it to have forged crank ,Lemans rods, Lunati cam and I know it has 428 cj heads. Should I pull the engine down to verify all of this or some of this for maximum value? Or just the pan and heads? What do you guys think of the value of this running engine as it sits? I am interested in any and all thoughts. Thanks Toby |
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I would definitely leave it in for any potential buyer to check it out, why are you considering a change and to what?. Is it too much for you to handle?.
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I am considering an all aluminum s/o from keith craft, Perry.
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Why?, you won't be able to tell the difference?.
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Perry,
If you have experience with going from a ci motor to an aluminum motor in your cobra I would like to hear about it. Taking a couple hundred pounds off the front end seems like something that will make a big difference to me. I have owned a small block cobra, and it handled better in the twisties than my BB. Besides, I think I like the idea of a big cube S/O, that gives you the best of both worlds. |
As I understand there is only about a hundred pounds difference?. But hey!, it's personal preference. I wouldn't remove the FE, Let any potential buyer check it out.
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Personally I would leave the motor in ERA234 alone...Plenty of power to get that cart up and running at a good clip. No other reason to swap motors other than the WOW factor, in which case your best bet would be a polished Kirkham ;)
Bill S. Former owner of ERA234 (wish I never sold it too) |
BIG cubes, more power, I can understand. KC motor, pretty cool. Weight savings? Hard to justify the additional expense on that factor alone, but as a part of the big picture, OK.
Assuming one all ready had alloy intake, heads, water pump and other potential weight savings on the front end, how much MORE weight would an all alloy engine by itself actually save? Value? Boy thats a tough one! Tear it down or sell as is? I'd be tempted to leave it alone, not tear it down. Offer your 'best guess' as to the internals and take a video of the car 'going through the gears' just before you pull the motor. That will help verify it 'ran good' when you swapped out for the KC and didn't swap out for the KC because the motor was 'bad' in some way. |
Thanks for the input guys, I'm still in the thinking stages just yet. The one thing I will do is put in a hydraulic t/o bearing and relocate the battery to the back. Any body got an Idea what the motor is worth?
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I thought all ERA's came with a hyd throw out?
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Eh eh, were talking in circles here... INTERNAL Hyd throw out, can't imagine why anyone would want one! I have Hydraulic throw out, external, bolted to the bell housing, easy access, easy to adjust, the perfect solution.
But your right, it would be reasonable to ASSUME when someone says Hydraulic throw out bearing there talking about an internal setup. |
Why not offer it for sale now and see what responses you get? Leave it in the car so you can demo it to potential buyers and you can still have fun in the meantime. If you don't get the price you want, you don't have to sell.
There's a genesis iron 427 S/O (496 actual c.i.) on eBay right now for $10,995, item number: 300251327919, that you can use for comparison. Just my $.02 |
I think you would get higher dollar from a person wanting a running engine, if they can see it run in a car. The only problem is if you wait until you sell this engine then have to wait on the new one to be built, your going to have no engine in your car during your best driving weather.
Your small block 5.0 had aluminum heads and intake. I doubt an all aluminum FE will get down to that weight. So you likely cannot get all the way their. If your FE is all cast iron, you could knock off over 100 lb with aluminum heads and intake. You could likely bump up the Hp with that move a fair amount. Maybe 1/3 the cost, and you still have the side oiler bragging rights. Keith could tell what to expect with his custom port jobs. So do you want a half step or go all the way? The add KC ran on an aluminum FE is quite tempting. If you go for it, you won't be dissapointed. Good luck. |
I have seen well sorted FEs go from $4500 to $15K depending on who built it and having the buyer hear it (see it) in a car or on an engine run stand.
If you are having difficulty with the ERA 427 Hyd clutch solution, they have update their manual since you built your car. ANNNND some of the parts that were not available when 234 was built, are being repro'd now. If you are wanting to dispense with an antique motor and get something newer , i can appreciate that. I am sure someone on the forum would be super happy to have your motor. |
Thanks folks, All good suggestions!
Rick, that KC ad is really making me think! Ernie, David Kee sells an internal Hyd. t/o that appeals to me for simplicity sake. Toby |
I have the webber internal hyd. t/o bearing, self adjusting and never a problem.
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Plenty of folks that have bad luck with them. My external is working, until one day the slave started to leak. Whew, at least I didn't have to pull the trans to replace it. :LOL:
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