FE Main bolts needed

[RICK LAKE]

elmarichi Jim are you sure the leak is from the oil pan? Don't get madbut you have good basic assembly skills and is it possible you are missing something. Is there any change on getting a picture of the problem? Start with checking the surfaces for being flat with a flat edge, oil pan too.
How do you have the oil pan bolts or nuts torqued? Do you have both gasketed glued to the windage tray? What kind of material are the gaskets made of ? Cork, Rubber, or Dark gray heavy paper? I have used cork and it leaked around the bolt holes in the oil pan with correct torque applied to the bolts, I tryed studs and nuts to, still seeped. Forget rubber. I used the thick paper Felpro gaskets for the oil pan. Hi-Tac gaskets to the windage tray and use close pins to hold gasket in place and dry. Get Gray RTV sealer and use a very thin coat around both sealing surfaces. (No oil or residue can be on surfaces) install gasket and pan. I use 2 pins, 2" long to center the oil pan on the block in the car, 4 on the engine stand. Tighen bolts or nuts from the center out to spec after you have surface to surface contact. You will need a little help so not to smear the RTV. DRYING TIME 24 hours. Fill with oil and try. If you have a leak still it is not coming from the oil pan. You may have to buy a leak check kit at a good auto parts store. Pepboys,Autozone, and R&S don't sell the kit. It comes with glasses, dye bottle, and black light. Drop dye in oil and run motor for 10 minutes, you will find all your leaks. I use this 1-2 times a week for repairs. I am thinking rear main seal. If the seal is rope, O-Yea. If the seal is poly rubber about an 80% seal rate, if the seal is turned about 15-20 degrees. The caps may not have good seals in them even with the pins. Got to go to work, later Rick