HTM111 - Gonna need some work
 

All,

I wanted to start a new thread as to incude my friends on this forum. One, so I can get input as we are all sharing the same passion and input is always a good thing whetehr we agree or not. Two, if in the future for any reason I want to sell the car (current plan is to leave it to one of the kids) the buyer would have a resource for what has happened, the correction and it would be above board without the sterotypical clean car fax.

So I was clipped by a young girl, first day with her license. The left rear of the car sustained damage to the body which radiated to the right side of the car. The discrete tubing that HT used, as alloy was an option for these cars, was slightly moved ) 0.2". There was zero damage to the main rails and rear suspension as I did drive it home and have been driving since. Also already had it apart to inspect as I needed to be ready for the insurance adjuster to argue points. As they alsways do...

So, that leaves a damaged rear clip with many cracks along the rear as the laws of physics took their toll. A slightly bent disctrete tubing which needs to be straight and two doors that took a slight damage as cracks along with a partially debonded rear trunk frame and glass shell.

Its obvious that to repair it correct the rear clip needs to be removed, small tubing straightened and then work a new or repaired rear clip, fix bonded rear trunk and cracks in gelcoat/paint on doors. Basically the dashboard back needs attention in some way...

I must say I had Hagerty, as all insurance they were tough in the beginning but eventually found their way to understand the HiTech vs Pacific Roadster and became fare on the claim. As we all know they will get compensated from the girls insurance without a doubt. Good on Hagerty.....

Cobra Automotive has been a GREAT supporter in this process a they will be part of this repair as time progresses. Curt and crew are a great resource for all Cobra and Shelby related anything. I did try a few other shops and they were not interested in this type of work. Too slow and painful, most shops want fast and settled in under 4 weeks, this is more complicated.

So far here is the plan: (open for suggestions as we all have opinions)
a) Remove R&L doors and trunk from car
b) Remove rear clip as it's under stress and issues will occur later if that
stress is not relieved. Carefully avoiding wire harness to eliminate extra
newly added issues.
c) Straighten frame tubing which may require rear inner panels to be
removed and refit later in this process.
d) Paint touch up to frame tubes after its been exposed and straightened
e) Refit body to the tubing once replaced
f) Refit doors and truck
g) Make all the panels align as originally they were
h) Bodywork
i) Paint rear 2/3 of the car if not entire car

I am sure that I missed a couple items but that is the jist of it. :eek:

Remember you have a diminution in value claim as well.:cool:

Hence why it will be repaired to at least the level it was before...
Or better.....

Have you considered Legendary Motor Car Company? Although they are not considered a body shop they are none-the-less quite impressive at restoring Cobra's and do a superior job without coaching. I think you are indicating the car is a Hi Tech car but your screen name makes me suspect it might be an original. If it is, LMC would be the one of the best choices for restoration/repair.

I am certain the insurance company might swallow a bit hard but if you are talking about an original and as an original it is different than any of our replicas, then the LMC restoration route would be the correct route to pursue, IMO. As an original, it would not be inappropriate to have it restored to original when the repairs are completed.

Sorry to hear about the hit, but glad it is going to Curt and Co, could not ask for a better shop in the northeast.


Bill S.

Ah yes, Ryan is the best of the best when it comes to these cars. Better than Peter is my guess these days. This is not my gold car, its the red HiTech AZ replica.
I have a plan, maybe I'll type it out tonight. :)

Jeff, thank goodness it was just the car, sounds like it could have been a Hellva lot worse, we can fix cars, us not so much, getting older we heal slower ;) Thanks for your info. today, Cheers Tom.

Jeff,

Sorry to hear about the car. Glad you are OK!

Don't worry - been there, done that. You'll get it done and go on with the fun.

Tom

Sorry to hear your Cobra got damaged, but glad to read that you're OK and that it is repairable. Wishing you all the best, bringing it back to its former glory.

Thanks guys!
Yup, it will be a fix that in my view will bring it better than before and at least compensate for a little of the loss as its been hit.

I'll be removing the rear clip, most likely new rear clip as fixing will only be temporary and then new also helps remove the fear of resurfacing damage and cracks.

Hint:
SAI would need to ship a body from overseas $$$, HT is long gone and because of the frame being original in style I have not found a body that will work the same. Most are too thick as the bodies carry the strength of their custom framed cars. I need correct shape and thin to sit on top of the frame which supports it.. What to do? :confused:

Anyone recall what I did on the gold car? ;)

You appear to have stayed calmer and more level headed than I probably would under the same circumstances. Best of luck with the repairs.

Ok,

Here is the pitch....... Calm as the day is long
Current plans are to fix it in alloy...... mmm sorta.....

Why, because getting it at least to the previous level or better is first and foremost.
Second as the panels are glass and repairable I dont want them to be limiting my loss in the future whether visually (cracks) of physically. So I am cashing in a few chips and getting it done in a way that is all me.... That said it also has to limit out of pocket as I have settled with insurance with no supplimetal charges down the road. Why you ask, so I know what I have to work with up front.

Since I have to remove the rear clip for repairs and the labor cost high its a few more bucks to go alloy, which in my case is going to work as HiTech has the frame to support it. As the trunk deck was de-bonded might as well change that while I am at it as labor equals all its repair out. Doors were also in need of a repair so going metal there too...
Catch is the front clip is good, insurance $ does not cover and since HiTech cars are so good I am chosing to leave it as is... Alloy guy agrees as its a keeper.

So its gonna be Rear clip, trunk and doors in alloy as the costs for glass repairs and labor is around the same expense.... If I did not have a suppoorting frame (Original Style) the project would need to be in a different direction.
I am going out of pocket on the hood so a little in but then I think its worth it in the long run. Details will be well sorted out in the end and I'll document as we procede. Pictures to come...

Then paint! It will not be red as going this far in either glass or alloy allows a change since 3/4 of the car will be repaired, stripped and or replaced.
Its gonna bi tch in! (Sorry, love Kindig motto)

It will be an alloy car with glass highlights... :)

As many of these car are, its not a one shop and done ordeal.

I will thank up front:
1) Hagerty for realizing its not a regular car and that its gonne take time and effort to make this repair.
2) Cobra Automotive (A-1)
3) Alloy Coachsmithing
4) J/S Panels
5) ESP Motorcars
6) Stanley Customs
7) Craig Combe
8) My son Zach who is going to learn how its done with collectables along the way ..;)

I've owned HTM101 since new. It's a fiberglass car that was built with the full alloy interior; inner fenders, firewall, floor, rear wall and trunk. The car is now 28 years old. One day it will be for sale, as maybe will yours.

When a prospective buyer is evaluating the purchase of an Arizona Hi-Tech car, will he be more drawn to a fiber-lloy car, or a full alloy car?

Wow, Jeff. Just saw this thread. Foremost, and echoing others' sentiments - at least you are OK.
This is one of the scenerios that we would all dread - consciously, or more likely, subconsciously - every time we venture out onto the road.

So - I'll try to look at it positively (yes, easy for me) - at this point (ie a damaged Cobra), I look forward to a great (re)build thread.

Cheers!
Glen

For starters I like the input, in the end it will all work out and this type of input is why I post. Get other ideas and listen to others reasoning..... :eek:
Appreciate the kind thoughts as to my non-injured status as its a lucky thing and I appreciate the big guy not wanting me yet.

To date this is why I have chosen this direction, as all directions are; these could change. Cost Cost Cost

Plan A: As it stands (Falloy) is going to put me out of pocket 1500-2000k if executed well.
Plan B: All alloy will put me closer to $22,000+ cash out of pocket! Big delta %/ and the kids like food besides Mac-n-Cheese :JEKYLHYDE

The reasoning behind alloy is that it replaces the wrecked body with that of something that can more easily be repaired in the future. Also, is the glass going to fit right if not of HiTech lineage? Recently found a glass rear actually, HiTech, however at similar cost is that the way to roll?
Overall yes, of course there is a certain perfection to all alloy however its also a replica. Will the end value be that much more? Some alloy cars are still in the sub 150k sell and one never knows. I would also argue a well executed car in glass, alloy or Falloy still gets premium dollars.

As I also own an alloy car there will be a certain level of peace knowing that every small rock that flies up at the body while driving is not going to dent the car as its going to see miles. Glass is not a bad thing and it does serve as a nice barrier for strength. Will a Falloy car with no dents carry the value versus a used slightly dented car? :rolleyes:

If life treats me as it has (lucky so far) the car will end up in the hands of my son, hoping in more than a few years, then he can enjoy a relatively safe well done car with the memory of his old man while enjoying. Then I guess value is moog and not of concern....

Its a how far to take it scenario. Hmmm

Maybe I missed this, but how and where do you mate the aluminum rear clip to the glass front clip seamlessly, without seeing the joint, and without the dissimilar materials eventually cracking at the mating joint?

I agree, that would be the critical part of this to me - mating aluminum to fiberglass in a way that can not eventually show through the paint.

Ahhhh

Two part adhesive, basically inlay the alloy into the glass by the 3/32" or reverse and go from backside. After seal inside with Auto Grade Urethane....
Once bonded, common place in today's world, it will be attached as per normal SS rivets to the frame. Remember a two part adhesive is very strong even tappable in some cases. The alloy and glass each physically attachment to the door jam and rocker with only a 6" span. Very durable.

It's how I bonded the rear alloy flares on the gold car... 10+ years running, hence the hint

As for color:
I am thinking to go with original color and really have it down to 4 choices.
- Hertz Gold - Only two and videos are tough to see color as Anthony's car rough?? CSX3021 CSX3047. https://youtu.be/5ZgiffbAAVY
- Ivy Green .... https://youtu.be/dImk-pJNcWk CSX3033, the video is of a later car.
- Guardsman (stripe delete) ... https://youtu.be/rC3elseV5XA CSX3006
- Charcoal Gray .... https://youtu.be/M-rNwHqfIew CSX3178

Yes, that will probably work fine. I’ve started using 3M panel adhesive for some projects and they are pretty impressive.